Guilt-Toy

are the injectors side feed? or did you convert to a top feed with the aftermarket plenum ? what injectors are they exactly? got a part number?

if your after a cheap boost controller, the turbotech ones aint too bad... search for $22 boost controller on these forums... once setup properly they work well. good luck

those things are junk. bin it.

*sigh* sooo many tuners blame the ecu on their poor tuning skills.. it pisses me off. the vipec plug in will do the job the same as the adaptronic, but it is far more expensive. the vi-pec plug ins now come with a v88 top board, which means they are fully sequential. plug ins are called plug in's. they are not called v44 or v88's.

dude, first just change the plugs.. and put 7's in it.. don't bother with 6's.

basically, i will explain to you what that answer means.... you can buy a sensor and put it in the fuel line, and it detects the ethanol content in your fuel lines and the ecu will adjust the tune accordingly on the fly, without you having to do anything really. all you do is just put whatever fuel you can in the tank and the computer does the rest. does not matter if you only have half of e85 and half of 98, or a quarter of e85 and the rest 98, the ecu will sort it out for you without you even knowing.

use BCPR7ES spark plugs. if no difference then try gap them to 0.6 and report back

warm the car up, and test it again. i once had a cyl read 80 when the rest were 130, then i tested it again 2 weeks later and that cyl was back to normal again. have no Fn idea why. tested it after i purchased new engine internals btw. guess they were not needed... at least for a few months after when something else let go

OUCH

you cannot go past the adaptronic. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/420444-an-alternative-ecu-choice-worth-considering/page-6?hl=%2Becu+%2Bworth+%2Bconsidering#entry6877734

i got nothing to hide mate. the v44 plug in, is it the older version or the new version with the v88 top board? if its the older version which i am guessing it is because you mentioned "v44" then you cannot change your system to seq because the ecu only has 4 ignition outputs. why change it anyway... there is no difference. cheers.

wow.... such a general question.... Yes.

try replacing the map sensor, or check the wiring. thats not normal.

we dont have e85 here, but our 98 is good, real good... 330 - 340kw on 98 will do me just fine. i am going to get a set of r34 dumps i think.

yeah made up.. because the engine is in a american spec nissan z33 350z, i can get some big dumps made for it... and it will be pretty cheap here, about the same price as importing a set. what you think ?

i have a hangover now.

i am only running 16psi of boost atm... its summer here and even at 2am its 40deg c.... also i am running stock r32 gtr dump pipes because the hks dumps i had on the 2510 did not fit for some reason. how much power would these stock r32 gtr dump pipes be robbing from my setup? i was thinking of getting some replacements or get some bad ass 3" ones made, what would be better?? or is it not needed? come winter i really do want around 340rwkw

its very respsonsive like a NA, its got tomei cams 8.8 lift as well... its always on boost, it even shuffles when you turn the engine off lol ive gone over the car for boost leaks time and time again... so no one can confirm the induction sound of these things ? i still have the afms on the turbos with those mushroom type filters with the stock rubber intake pipes

what does your -9's sound like when they are on boost? on my rb30dett i have a massive whistle suction sound, is that normal??

yes but $36 each ? we get them here for $3 each

the new plugin vipec with the v88 top board is indeed different, but for many years the plug ins were the same.

bcpr7es

you will need to change the spring in the wastegate to a soft spring, a boost controller cannot make the boost lower then the spring pressure in the gate. start with a 0.4 bar spring and see how it goes from there. R & R is Rich and Retard, its a part of the map that the ecu will go to when there is excess air flow outside of the OEM standard to save the engine from being damaged.

Once you have connected your timing light the correct way i have mentioned above, its a good idea to to put the engine on TDC and then mark 0deg on the pulley with some white out, also mark the point on the engine cover so its easier to see when doing the timing. Once you have done this and the timing light is running, you will be able to see the timing. On the RB it goes from left to right. | | | | | | | 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 If you look at this pic you can see the ignition timing calibrate screen. Some tips in this screen, 1:) this is what the ignition timing is being locked to, so atm its set to 10deg, that means the ecu is running the engine at 10deg. So if you shine the light on the pulley it should flash when the marker is at 10deg, if not then the timing is not correct and you need to adjust the offset value. 2:) this is the offset value, if you find that the light is flashing on 5 then you should remove 5 from this value and you can pretty much see the timing light flashing / changing on the fly. Keep adjusting the offset until the igntion timing on the pulley is the same as what you have in the software. Once the offset is correct you can pretty much change the number 1 value to 0 or 20 or even 30 and the timing light will show the correct value on the pulley. The biggest tip i have for this screen is that you MUST and i mean you MUST press enter after changing the value in any of the box's for it to be sent to the ecu and for it to come into effect, once you have done this the background will change to blue. Once you have set the timing press DONE then press F4it to store it. before you removing the timing light, go to the tuning menu up the top, and click on "run time values" then click on "ignition" this will tell you the current live ignition value the ecu is at "IGN ANGLE" , it might be at 18 or something, just quickly shoot the gun and double check that its calibrated correctly. then press F4. and store it! The calibrate menu is under the menu "triggers" -> Calibrate, then highlight "Set base timing" and press enter.

So... lets continue. F1 is your best friend. and the good news is the Vi-pec online help system is one of the best online help systems I have ever seen on any ecu platform. You can pretty much click on ANY option in the software ANYWHERE and simply press F1, OR right click and click "whats this???" then the help related to what you have highlighted will come with extensive information on what it does, how it works, and sometimes even some examples on how to do it, and also links to other related help topics! its simply amazing, you can pretty much teach yourself how to tune in this help file that is that good.