Guilt-Toy

I got a Z32 ecu modified correctly with a brand new Nistune board installed to run in a Series 1 R33 GTST, have tested it in my own car and everything is all good. I have modded this ECU myself, so you can be sure it is working correctly with no issues. Can do the series 2 modifications for no extra charge after payment has been made before sending the ecu. pic of the ecu and some of the modifications done on the board to make it a true plug in solution for r33. Selling for $550 Also i have 2 x RB26 R32 gtr ecu's, with custom programs, ecu's are socketed and have a 512kb eprom chip that can be written unlimited amount of times, I will put a stock RB26 r32 gtr program inside but remove the speed limit and can also set the rev limiter to how you want it. For the guys who are really keen, i can provide 2 x chips, and offer a mail in tune service, you just tell me what you need done to the chip and i will wrirte it and send it back to you in the mail until your car is properly tuned, or come to me in Newcastle NSW and i will do a full custom nistune dyno tune for your car and burn the chip for you. Selling the GTR ecu's for $250 each with one custom eprom installed, pm me if you want to customise the eprom for your car. mail in tunes only available for mild setups please! or it becomes too messy. Can also make the modification required for R33 GTR for no extra cost after payment has been made. pickup available Newcastle NSW, post is only about $25 per ecu.

aftermarket ecu ?

i had this happen to me.... and after a shit load of cash and replacement parts, including a re-balanced tail shaft.... it ended up being the exhaust rubbing on the back bumper bar. make sure the exhaust has all the correct mountings installed and its not close to touching, even if it looks like it wont touch but its close, when driving in gear it changes position a little. frustrated the hell out of me this did...

with aftermarket ecu's the timing ofset is done in the software so it does not matter where the CAS is positioned. if you have a power fc or a stock ecu remapped then it would matter, the tuner would have to know where the timing is and adjust the whole map to suit.

i am selling my kit. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221299594883?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 get it while it lasts.

all on ebay. boost controller http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221299588176?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 d-jetro http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221299575032?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 l-jetro http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221299577011?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Gizzmo k-mon http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221299594883?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 wolf 3d v4 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221299566853?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

I got 2 power fc's for sale, one d-jetro and one l-jetro. got the unit's themself's, no hand controllers or any attatchments. $700 for d-jetro and $550 for the l-jetro. Greddy profec b spec II boost controller, $250 pickup available in Newcastle NSW or can post. cheers

the link / vipec ecu is the easiest ecu on the market to tune. look in "analog inputs" cheers

yeah its a pain in the ass, to do it this way you need to set IAT then set it to a calibration, then set the resistance for the sensor in the cal table. you are better off calling your dealer and getting a expansion cable and run new wires to the sensor so you can use the pre-set calibrations.

i ran 2 bar and 380rwkw on stock springs in a rb25 head rb30 block... worked for me.

its a conrod bearing.

actually you will be able to drive the car with the 550's in it if its a gtr... i have had to do this before once apon a time.... it will run rich and use alot of fuel and make the spark plugs go black but it will work without too much hassles until you get a tune. i would not suggest driving it too much like this though.

yes you can.

il be back in town next week for a couple of months id say... shoot me a pm.

they are bin items. only the housings are re-usable.

is the turbo for sale?

the connection wont fit. but if you get the ignitor loom, and coil loom you can cut and wire it in manually. a good tuner electrician should be able to do this without any issues. but you are better off trying to find someone who would be keen to swap the s1 coils for a s2 set. by the time you wire it all up its going to be better to just sell the coil packs and buy a proper series 2 set.

the supra disconnected at the same time as well....

*good news everyone* (dr farnsworth voice) because i am such a nice guy and not so lazy (not) I decided to do a search and i found a old email from back in 2009 from Ray Hall with the details you need to make your own serial cable. you gotta change the cable to the CAN port on the board if using a plug in, if using the v44 or v88 you just put the cable on the can port. good luck GT

yeah i get this sometimes.... electrical interference and usb does NOT mix. and there is nothing you can do about it. i had to tune a 850hp supra offline because of this, the way i did it was setup offline logging and after the run i would download the log and adjust then save then repeat... I had no other choice as i only had an hour to tune that car, but there is another option... if you use the serial cable then it should usually fix the issues, i have one that i made a few years ago but it was in my skyline and not available to me at the time. you can call your vipec dealer and they can order the serial cable for you, then you need a laptop with a 9pin serial port not a usb to serial converted. ps: i hate usb. serial all the way.

google is your friend... make SURE you soldier it up, i was lazy and thought i would get to it later, but i did not end up doing it then one of the injectors would lose connection every now and then causing one cyl to turn off sometimes..... https://www.google.ae/search?q=rb26+resister+pack&oq=rb26+resister+pack&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j0l3.4275j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 just cut the wires and bunch them ALL up and pour a crapload of soldier over it and tape it up and remove the resister pack from the engine bay as its not needed anymore.

what a riddle.

depends on which microtech, and if it was setup. its easier for you to just invest in a cam gear and get it tuned on the dyno imo.

i would look at removing the cams and putting the stock ones back in and testing it. the symptoms have cam timing written all over it. more boost no more power. that is exactly what happens. dont bother dropping the exhaust, just drill a hole and screw in a fitting, then connect it to the dynos boost pressure sensor and measure the pressure in the exhaust, it should not really exceed 7 or 8psi pressure in the exhaust.

if it is a manual there is no reason why you would need to use this unit on your r33. maybe you could leg it with an auto because of the ignition retard the transmission needs. Give it back to him and buy yourself a plug in power fc and get it tuned. it is the only way to go now.