GTRsean

Have a completely standard car............... That would suck, unless you had a 35GTR.....

Usually, and don't quote me on this they will rev higher on startup to heat up cat coverters quicker for emissions reasons. A mate's 350ZHR did the same thing.

For $700 or so the tomei poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift (had these in my 32R with 2530's) go well if you are after 330-400WKW, mainly allow you to run less boost for the same kw output as stock cams and increase torque. There are also others like, jun, HKS 264's, but check out the RB26 dyno results to see what others are getting out of their setups.

upgrade to nitto, hks, tomei etc, and use hylomar gasket spray on both sides.

The back, you can. You will chew out the insides quick if you dial in more camber at the back.

Please clear your inbox..... I can't pm you, but feel free to pm me your acc details and amount owed.

Annnnd silence........crickets. Go os giken.

I heard he went through 3 sets of tyres..... How is a T51r needed?!

Pretty good engine conversion eh?

Factory fixed their mistake with the late 32, 33 34 engines. Oil pump drive on the crank was too narrow, so they widened it. Get a collar fitted to the crank or get a later model crank.

Don't think it does, but I'm too far away to check my car at the moment sorry.

Z tune rear skirt in frp. Rear exhaust shroud in carbon. Thanks!

As above, at least get some new genuine rings for the pistons as well. Shouldn't cost too much. Also get new timing belt tensioner bearings (because the wear and dry out) and a new tensioner stud, as studs are known to break. And make sure everything gets cleaned out really well. Ball bearing turbos hate any sort of metal debris in them... Shop around/ check for sale threads for best deals too.

After reading your thread and current situation, my suggestions for your car and it's use (big thing here is keeping constant oil pressure and oil around the oil pickup): Stock gtr oil pump, because n1 will pump more oil out of sump regardless of restrictor. tomei or similar baffle kit with restrictor, plus .5-1L overfill on oil. I put 6L in mine every oil change. Mines style cam cover baffle kit. It will live a happy life, but the stuff I reccomended is your choice in the end.

LOL!!! grab a set of brackets too then Dave!!

What block is it? If it's the original eng for your car: 24U? RRR?

Roughly $7000 from nissan new......anyone would buy it!!!!!

Left over from the earlier models maybe. Usually goes to a sensor on a heater hose joint on the firewall, but 34 don't use it.

The following please: Rear bumper exhaust shroud 34GTR Nismo ztune rear bumper side skirts 34GTR

Z tune doesn't have one fitted.....

Location...

The switch on the right is the headlight beam height adjustment. The one on the left is not stock, and you mentioned it operated the clutch disengagement. Dimmer knob is fitted for compliance as they don't come standard with a dash light dimmer. But they usually fit it where that switch is...

Craved coatings did mine and others. No problems here.

So sounds like it is rigged up to operate the clutch slave cylinder without you pushing on the pedal. So something like this: The second clutch master cylinder in the boot shelf is operated with the dash switch to the control box, this then operates a motor and the gearbox with linkage to the end of the clutch master piston. The hydraulic lines then go from the boot master cylinder to another reservior (maybe) as well as tee into the slave cylinder on the side of the gbox to operate the clutch. Would be handy for a person lacking proper leg movement or leg(s) to operate a clutch pedal, so he or she wouldn't be stuck with driving an auto, or 'clutchless' shifting type of driving, ie push a button instead of pushing a pedal. That would explain the lack of drive when you push the switch while driving in gear. Would be the same as pushing in the clutch pedal. Pretty mad setup!!!!.

-9's Another tune due on mine