Mine's a UAS kit with billet alloy adapters and two piece 324mm rotors (standard size is 296mm).
I like it a lot!
For street driving and a little track daying lol.
Mine did that from a bolt not being tight enough. Had a new crank keyway milled into the opposite side (180deg) when I was rebuilding my eng.
No probs, just be aware that the timing mark on the crank gear will be 180deg out.
Ha ha, funnily enough I have been thinking of getting an R34GTR for a while now and have been though this topic and posts a few times. Bypass the rubbish and there are quite a few good bits of info on here. Also looked on carsales and trading post. Couple of cars for sale here that look the goods too but weren't bayside blue, next best colour choice for me was white.
I would first have to sell my R32 GTR that I've poured so much hard earned over the years on like many others!!, I could keep throwing money at it but I'd just love to get a 34.
Then I'd be looking for a 1999-2000 Bayside Blue R34GTR v spec in good, stock condition or a couple of light mods.
Budget I'll keep to my chest, and I'll really start searching when I'm back in Aus mid March, and sold my GTR.
+1 Cheers guys. Great info on here as I'm currently looking for an R34 GTR vspec, and know what I'm looking at features wise other than the diffusers!!
One under each seat is also for the seatbelt buckle switch, for the pretensioners that usually get replaced at compliance time, and seat belt warning light.
We use em on aircraft, vbands are the easiest for removal and installation. Stainless steel is the way to go and the use of a high temp anti seize helps to avoid seizing.
I had some lag and no midrange with my 2530's, wouldn't get serious till after 5500rpm!
After checking everything, found out the cam timing was way retarded (like 5 teeth out or something!) due to the keyway on the crank desintegrating and allowing the cam gear on the crank to slip.
This was due to the harmonic balancer bolt coming loose!
After I got it fixed I got my midrange etc back!!
Being way retarded it put out some wicked flames when changing gears!!
They are 17x9 inch wheels with a design that I like because it looks similar to the 16x8 stockers.
Around 2006 onwards they were brought out I think.
Want to get these wheels!
Sorry only have this pic:
Someone's gotta know something about em lol!
Oil change and filter, I put in 6-6.5L of oil into the engine (stock capacity sump), only way to reduce the chance of oil starvation when getting into it!. Stock oil pressure gauge doesn't react fast enough, I use an extra aftermarket oil pressure unit.
GRRRRRRRRRRR!!! damn net connections!
I want $20,000 for mine for example, 1992 model, forged eng 20,000k's on engine, new stuff, just needs some new paint, even though it's had tens of thousands spent on it, you never usually get it back lol.
Well most 32's are getting on, as in 20years old!
As is with no new paint, stock eng etc: $16,000
With a respray, stock eng light mods, etc: $16-20,000
Fresh engine, mods, respray: $20-30,000
That's a rough estimate.
Ha ha, I've heard that before!.
It's one of the turbo flange exhaust gaskets that has blown out.
Exhaust system flexes, knocks from speed bumps etc, wear can cause em to open up and leak, then sound like a lawn mower lol.
Pretty sure thats what it sounds like. Let us know how you go!
Os clutches, twin and tripple plate.
Make sure some material is taken off the front of the thrust bearing carrier snout, approx 4mm otherwise it actually contacts the rear clutch plate center, and will cause some serious issues down the track!!
I found out the hard way, and I've had both twin and tripple now. Now running an extreme carbofibre twinplate.