GTRsean

PICS= interesting topic lol. It's fun spending other people's money!! First up brand new os gikken competition twin plate, with sprung center. I was going to use and exeedy type flywheel and clutch as we have a near new one on hand but the owner wanted fresh tougher stuff! 5 Stud conversion kit. Got this because, the choice of wheels opens right up, and fitting bigger brakes and discs from the skylines is a lot easier to do. I redrilled the previous 5 stud discs to 4 stud, now it's bolt straight on! Pull the dust cap, remove the split pin and get a 30mm socket on the nut. Spindle just slides off, too easy! New 5 stud spindle on, with a new split pin, dust cap on, disk on and bolt the caliper on. Just need some s14 5 stud rear discs because silvias/180's don't have drum type hand brakes like the skylines. Just the rears to do later. Just 4 bolts at the back of the hub assy to undo, instead of 4 bolts with a big nut like the skylines. My GTR 16's fitted to the front, and front guards are going to go back to stock as per owners request.

Thanks for the hub kit Chris, free bump.

Free bump. I have a n14 SR20DE but can't get into contact with last owner for a reciept, so it's not much good if the car ain't mine yet!!

What rims??? very nice one's, thats for sure!

No probs. Thanks for the info, I'll have to check. I learned that the hard way on my 26, chewed the crank keyway and key out due to bolt coming loose (not enough ftlbs=350). Even more so with this setup then, otherwise no oil pressure?!?

Witnessed a white one do a 11.3 quarter mile at WSID wednesday just gone. Stock wheels etc.

Lol, I think a turbo xr6 or typhoon engine conversion would suit it better?? Still waiting on bellhousing to get machined, so that engine can be lined up to mounts etc, as well as timing chain guides etc to be replaced. Harmonic balancer was a pain to remove, ie the bolt was tight. So I went to bunnings and bought a 300nm electric rattle gun. Worked a treat!! Then used a puller, wd40, and it came off sweet. Cracked open the front timing cover and a cam cover. I must say it was spotless in there, so it's a very clean and well serviced engine. Pic taken of cams etc, it wasn't touched for the camera lol. Also pulled intake manifold off. Fair few pipes down there! Steel plates were cut up and drilled to match the engine mount points. These will be finished once engine is positioned and set in desired spot. More to come soon....

Mine turned on in summer, sitting there idling with a/c on, after a couple of mins the aux fan turned on. If water temp goes over 95ish degs she turns on. Temp switch is in the bottom of the radiator.

My attempt a few years back. Just used the holts under coat silver, and it came out gloss by itself. Craved powder coated the current setup and it came out shmick. Here's a pic with the center cover on.

I was able to lift mine, bare block onto my engine stand, and I weigh 67KG. I'd say roughly 80KG of 05u jap quality cast?

Plastic and powdercoating=fail. You'd have to spay em normally and get a paint matched to suit.

Ceramic turbs = bad!! Hope you have n1's or steel wheels in there BTW nice car!

Here's mine, marked in red are the oil returns, ready to be drilled. I drilled out the rear one's out to the gasket template. The other oil return holes can be drilled out another .040-.080 thou. Of course the block would be drilled out to the same size to make it worth while. Put a -10 or larger oil vent line from the sump (above oil level, near the top of sump) into a breather/catch tank too. I need to do this, because at the track my oil is not returning back into the sump quick enough (high revs+boost), and it's filling the catch can!

Best intank straight bolt in option would be the nismo pump, I'm sure BB agreed on that a while back. I'm running one 044 in tank and thats it, but had to modify the pump cradle to suit, and buy fittings. Runs fine and pretty quiet With these two options, you could easily run 300-350rwkw+....I have already had both setups, and a lot of others have had similar too.

DBA a few years ago, I had issues with them crazing. Now they seem to be better quality. Last set I used were 4000 slotted's with 400deg, then 500deg pads and they held up well on two trackdays as well as daily duties. Still A1 when I pulled em off. Pulled em off because I upgraded to a larger rotor setup. RDA are good for street, but after seeing how they perform on a mates car, I wouldn't track day them. Stay away from bendix ultimates, they chew your rotors a fair bit. Stock nissan drilled discs I bought for $160 each from nissan were okay for light street duty, but cracked over time running ultimates, couldn't take the heat!

Matty will bury Dan's wedding-vegies, whilst Homo-Mike's faps

MMMMMMMM carbon drooooollll. Very nice! Gonna get the airbox too??

Bought a new seal kit from nissan, when mine was leaking more than usual. They wear out from age too. Check the bore when you pull the old assy out to check for scoring, damage etc, clean with new brake fluid and use a brake rubber grease if you have some, on the new part before you refitt. Then go a full brake and abs bleed. Mine stopped leaking after that, and I also cleaned, primed and resprayed the areas where the brake fluid leaked onto/under when I was rebuilding my engine (easy access).

Just read your conversion thread and I must say, it's looking great! Takes lots of hours, I know! The wiring link was very helpful, and I'm sure I have 95% of the wiring covered now! Here it is!! Glad I played with electronics a lot.

Noisy.... as in no exhaust?!!! lol Luck you got em at a reasonable price due to the dollar. Well, so for now I'm just sorting and cutting out the 180sx ecu wiring, and keeping the power, fuel pump wiring etc. A problem I've had so far is sourcing VH45DE ecu wiring harness pinout codes, mainly power supply etc. I worked out a couple but will have to chase the rest sooner or later. Here's a guide I'm making for the VH45DE:

Oran park R32 GTR Me driving on street tyres Got a best of 1:27 lol Cannon ixus 75 camera mouted on seat lol, now have a proper mount, not as noisy.

No, they don't fit...just a bit too small. I'm in the same boat now, can't run my 16's on the front! 17 is the new minimum I'm afraid.

I did the AAMI free one, folks were with em,...years ago in Tassie....good course for begnners.

Plastic bush on the end of the gear stick that slots into the selector rod end is gone.... That's one I can think of.

Push type clutch I'm sure. S1 cars are push type.