GTRsean

I bought a Bee R panel filter from otomoto and it is non oiled. Worked great and flows enough for over 350rwkw....

What's the CB channel going to be this time?

+1 Mine's still a daily after 5 years. Put over 100,000k's on and only let me down a couple of times=gbox.

My twins whine too, the 2530's that is. I'm running an airbox, Bee R filter with stock rubber intake piping.

Can you rebuild and/or high flow a CT20?, off a toyota 1JZ VVTI? (these are the 2.5L single turbo). Cheers

Yep. Two per side. The one shown above mount to the front cross member and the outer ones are in the bottom of the hub, outer ones have two mount holes. Steering felt more direct and the front end didn't make any thuding noises, also car didn't track as much. Now my castor rod ends are shot (rose jointed aftermarket ones) and they need to be replaced again!

Did mine a few years back. They were $110 each from nissan, 4 to change! They just ordered them, I don't know the part numbers....

I'm sure mine is the input shaft bearing too. Started making noise after a spirited drive, hilly stuff. It only got rebuilt last year with new stuff, but it is take 2x stock HP. Still annoying that it happened. Hasn't seemed to get worse though and doesn't make noise when coasting along or deccelerating, or when pushing in clutch sitting still.

V nice, v nice! If I had two jobs I might be able to own one lol!!

Wow, those bays look awesome. You can eat off em thats for sure! Here's my latest, with the center cover completed. Polished plenum and twin turbo pipes Powdercoating done by Craved.

Running a os gikken twin plate sprung center clutch. Nicer on the gear box compared to the triple I had.. Got a second hand gearbox rebuilt last year with new bearings and synchros, put that in and it worked well (350RWKW). But now something has flogged out in it the other night. It seems like it's some type of thrust bearing or washer maybe that has flogged out. Makes a light dull grinding/ little tap noise. It only makes noise when: In neutral, In any gear, even reverse on light throttle to full acceleration. No noise when: Decelerating, Push the clutch pedal in to dis engage the input shaft. Pissed me off that it cost me $1975 to get rebuilt, but it is handling double factory output though. I think I'll go a brand new box and service it more often...

I got a push type bell housing for sale. It's on ebay too....

Location?

Something like this... They don't take too long to make and play around with pics.

It's easier to work on the engine with the engine out, especially when pulling off the intake manifold etc. But if you have to it can be done with the engine installed.

I had a metal cat (barrel type) last for two years then finally kark it on a dyno tune. Went from 20psi to 11psi due to guts of cat blocking the exhaust a little. It was rattling around due to it separating from the body. Bits were shooting out the back lol. Anyway, ended up getting a new one and this seems to be the mark II. It has a rod welded across the back of the matrix to stop the guts moving around I guess when it heats up and cools down. I'll see how it goes.

SWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET ride!! I'd be happy with just a bayside blue stock one!!! but a Nur, awesome.

Umm, don't run it straight, best to mix with petrol 50:50, then ignition timing can be advanced (tuned to suit of course). Don't run a cat converter, it kills them too. It's not street legal.... That's all we have found.

Bye bye engine. You can and will do some major damage unless it's fixed up.EG track day. Either clean up the tune on the 600cc injectors with less boost etc. Or upgrade your injectors and fuel system if it needs it. Mine ran in the high 12's-low 13's a/f when I got my car, as it still had the jap tune. Drove it round for 6 months. Ignition timing/detonation will do more damage than a leaner a/f. Just my 2 cents (not worth much lol) Cheers

Just like Bathurst all those years ago lol

Any of you guys seen the specs on this bad boy?? Change engine RB30E RB26DETTヘッド改 Kai head RB26DETT カム IN EX 共に300度 ポート加工 HKSスライドカムスプロケ IN EX cam with 300 degrees port processing HKS SURAIDOKAMUSUPUROKE RB26用6連スロットル改 RB26 for improved throttle for 6 スポーツインジェクション SUPOTSUINJEKUSHON 等長ステンタコ足 Isometric leg SUTENTAKO FコンVプロ Pro Con V F R33樹脂製燃料タンク R33 plastic fuel tank オプティマバッテリー(リア) OPUTIMABATTERI (rear) Z32ラジエータ Z32 radiator RB30 block RB26DETT head, prepped and ported 300 degree inlet and exhaust cams six throttlebody intake with trumpets (sports injection) HKS F CON V pro computer, (map sensor based) And 380 HP at the crank.

Stock gauges suck. They have been a problem for many people. Senders usually go in em. Get an aftermarket gauge fitted.

Spotted ten or so skylines on Bells line road!!

Got one, Cheers

New engine. You will get some oil comsumption in the first few thousand k's, due to rings bedding in etc, then they usually settle down. Just gotta keep tabs on the oil level. A 10w 40 oil should be okay to use or whatever the engine rebuilder suggests. Gook luck with it.