GTRsean

Uh huh........ Actually they quoted me $550, just had a look at the email I had a while back. From an email I recieved from power tune: Yes, they are modelled on the N1 gear set so are exactly the same size. The difference between our gear set is the material they are made from which is a pre-hardened alloy composite and as such does not require heat treatment. As a performance part, we regret that we cannot offer warranty. We developed these gear sets out of necessity as many of our customers had broken so many of the N1 gear sets. We made our first set in 2006. It was put into a 400kw GTR and is going strong.

I got quoted around the $500 mark for them gears, power tune.

I'd say 100km, because road works etc are usually always 40km zones.....

You'd be in a better position to sell the non-turbo and purchase a turbo model, and go from there. Cost wise and the amount of mucking around you will have to do is not worth it. Think of the amount of stuff that is already upgraded on the turbo models, brakes, gboxes(in most cases), 5 stud hubs, and all the other little things... Or you could have a big project to do on your n/a model. Choice is yours

If you run Djetro power fc or a map sensor based computer, you can run the stock recirc valves as atmospheric BOVs. Airflow meter based management doesn't like BOVs due to not knowing where the metered air that was in the system went!

Damn. Oh well, I'm sure you can sort something out! Yeah, I don't want to miss the dyno day either.

SAU official dyno day at Unique Autosports, 15 Nov 08. It's in the events forum, Abo Bob said so!!

Have a sneaking suspision that the SAU dyno day is on that day.

Not recommended!!! Don't use a cutting disk, or grinding disk on aluminum. You will have to use something with a metal blade/saw etc.

I'd check the amp rating on them. The RB30 one's are rated to less, but should fit. They are a mitsubushi alternator so I'd look around at some mitsu's to see what they use, if they are the same mounts etc.

Something along the lines of Variable Valve Event and Lift. Similar to toyota's VVTi-L: variable valve timing with intelligence and lift. More power and torque through the rev range and keep emissions down etc.

UUUmmm....Never buy a series 1....lol. Let em iron out all the bugs then go from there...

Spotted, FEAR lol!!!

I prefer my custom one lol!

Black CAS FTW! Just kidding lol. Great job on the beast!! Bet your itching to drive it.

True that!

I had an old 1985 civic with a 1.6DOHC ZC JDM engine implant. No power steer, aircon, stereo, electric mirrors etc. Cost me $600 and I used to smile more driving that more than the GTR, due to the fact you didn't have to worry about anyone/thing. It reved to 7500 and wasn't even VTECH lol. Made 100hp at the wheels in a 890kg car. Ran it down WSID and got a 15.5 stock, no mods to engine, with roof racks lol! Lots of fun and use bugger all fuel, it handled good too, for a FWD. Don't bag em till you try em I say.

Too tight. I've had that exact problem before, same noise. Tension is too tight. Had a HKS belt and it made that noise. After a while it flogged out the idler bearings (read made em noisy at startup) because they got so hot from high belt tension. The stuff on the back of the belt had melted onto the bearing surfaces as well. Mechanic did the tension wrong, is all I can say, on mine. I did mine myself by the book, turn crank a couple of rotations and let the tensioner spring do the work, then tightened up the nut while holding the allen key in the same spot.

Yeah, I got one lol, before the camera lens got wet. Some pics from S15's camera:

Can't see why not. I'm using a 10w40 mineral. I'm changing it every 500k at the moment (done 1500k). You can get specific run in oils. I was told by a couple of experienced mechanics and tuners and they said the same thing: Run mineral for 10,000k Then run semi synthetic for another 10,000, Then use full synthetic. Seems like a fair few k's but I'll stick with that.

You can thank Josh for the moving pics lol. Cheers, Any more pics guys?

Great cruise guys. All good and pics great lol. Bring on Putty.

Check out HPI mag. There's a QLD company that makes ADR approved (read legal!!) fibreglass bonnets. Lighter than steel ones and keep things cooler with the venting. It's a looks thing, functional, less weight and legal. 2 pac painted would blend in sweet. You're on the right track with temps. If you run a high mount turbo that's the only time you might want to look at say a turbo blanket to cover the turbine housing, to protect the bonnet etc. Hope I'm not babbling on. Good night and good luck with your choice .

Unless you blew the HG, I wouldn't replace it until you build the engine or pull it out. Not worth the hassle when they are pretty tough from factory. Believe me when I say they are good lol.