GTRsean

Ha ha, yep thats why I paid more. Too get my build finished this decade. Spool rods did have an issue a few years back with rod bolts stretching, but that has been fixed as they include genuine ARP bolts now. Eagle and others seem to be cheaper now too.

Nengun have the gasket kit for$350ish. I paid $550 grrr

one is an idle switch, the other is the thottle postion sensor (potentiometer). I've pulled one apart lol.

Coil packs make the spark that ignites the air fuel mix in your engines' cylinders. If you suffer from missfires, miss at idle etc, usually people replace spark plugs first and regap to 0.8mm. If the coilpacks are definitely stuffed or failing, (getting old now!) usually a new set is the answer. Most people swear by splitfires, and they have come down in price too. I run them and have had no problems since. You don't need a dyno tune, they just bolt staight in. Hope some of this is useful. Cheers

tomei poncams 260, 9.15mm ACL forged pistons Spool rods ACL race series bearings sard 700cc injectors, they fit in stock fuel rail N1 oil pump stock water pump tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor in block tomei head gasket, intake metal gasket kit Cheers

What he said!!! I'll have to bed in and run in my car too when I'm finished. Someone mentioned disconnecting the wastegate actuator arms to aid in bedding in rings (piston rings for me, apex seals for you).

Cool. Welcome to the forums. Glad you like, plenty of info and stuffs here.

hence the micrometer part. Lots of measurements as well, not just using plastigauge.

Pretty important this part, I used plastigauge to check oil clearance. Otherwise, pick up and spin a bearing.

Lowlifes.....Shotgun filled with rocksalt would do em a world of good. Lucky they didn't get away with it. It's all about security these days. Good luck with the repairs.

GRrRRRRr, just paid, oh well keep some of mine for my membership renewal

Put us in.

Damn, I just deposited money!!!!!

Support your local club!!!!!!!

Looking forward to this, either the GTR is ready by then or I'm driving an auto camry stationwagon in the event lol. Prefer the GTR!!!!!

Well done, how many killerwasps do you expect lol. I wanna be in your shoes already, driving my car! Just a couple o weeks to go for my build.

The ones I got were 2 months old by the date stamped in the shells.......

When oil is at 80 degrees temp it should be at around (roughly) 20 psi When it's cold oil pressure will be a lot higher.

I'm guessing timing, cam belt change? Because if he's adjusting timing, the balancer doesn't need to come off?? Mine was seized too, spayed wd 40 into shaft hole area, then poured jug o hot water onto balancer and used puller, it came off a lot easier!

Thats a tricky one. I'm sticking with my stock one because: #cost. #It's an r33 engine so it has a wider crank and drives more of the pump face #never had an issue with this stock pump, even after 4 years and 100,000k of use and reving to 8500, sometimes to 9500 when I first bought car it #stick was in great nick. #Stock pump is not as hard as N1 (more brittle) #I don't bounce off the rev limiter or anything stupid like that so it's fine for my driving style. # not building a 700hp plus engine If I was on $100k a year I could checkbook race and buy a tomei pump, sump etc, but I'm not so I make use of what I can afford. My 2 cents. Cheers

You have to pull gearbox to get to the rear small bolts, Support engine when you drop the front crossmember to remove the sump. It's a lot easier to pull engine out and do it out of the car. It is possible though, just a real pain.

Got my ACL race series (no discount price) $260 from Rocket industries. Mains and big end bearings. I'm sure you can get em cheaper, but thats what I paid.

My gbox cost $1975 to rebuild, so this is a bargain guys!!!

I'd say pump is bigger? More flow and pressure than stock....at the same rpm.