GTRsean

I'd have to say yes, I've blown third due to shockload from my ex os triple plate. Reason is they don't have a dampened or sprung center, so the driveline gets shockloaded. I'm replacing mine with an os giken twin which is sprung center to help the gbox live longer. I'd say they are more suited for a strengthened box, but if you shift carefully you can run em, 3rd gear won't like the shockload though. Cheers

Have you tried unique autosports?

Tell em to repair it. If they don't, get fair trading into em. They should know where and where not to jack!

It's a wide drive 100%. No need to get a collar.

I think she might not pass with no cat converter. Too many nasties without it? Good to see what the readings would be though, good on ya

Had to do this machine that was at the nepean dam cruise!! Just lowered her a bit.

Like these

????????????????????????????! Great, now I don't know what pump it is... I know the top on in my pic is definitely an R33GTR stock oil pump (it's out of my R33 engine). What is the bottom one then.....I have another pic of it. There are no nissan markings on the casting, the insie of pump has a smooth coating on it and oilways are cast for more flow compared to stock. The gears are wider and larger in diameter than stock gears. 85mm diameter and 12mm thick. Relief valve is different too. Also has roll pins x2 as locators? Anyone?

Heard the thing come into the blocks this arvo. Sounded like a v8 induction note or something crazy! He got the car back. All up $16k or so for build, conversion, headers, electronics, new clutch etc. The throttle response is mad when free reved! Ok, it runs an adaptronic computer, MAP sensor. 25de pistons and stock rods, balanced rebuilt bottom end 12.2:1 comp ratio ported head with stock valve train still. Stock 5 speed still and brass button clutch. $1000 worth of tuned length headers. It's running 139RWKW @ 5700 at the moment, stock 26 cams are holding it back, and the rest of the exhaust. So head needs to be machined to accept 280 deg cams with 10.8mm lift, once he save up some dough again. The engine is so smooth at idle you could balance your loose change on it! (read needs some big cams).

Okay, I'm going to use an N1 housing I have lying around and buy a new billet gearset that is made to suit the housing. It'll cost $550 for the gears. They are CNC machined billet. The material they use doesn't require hardening. Only doing this as I already have an N1 pump with gears I ain't gonna use.

For drop ins, tomei poncams 260 9.15mm. If you go bigger, head off to machine head for lobe clearance, different springs. I guess you could also check the dyno outputs in forced induction thread. Cheers.

Yep you gotta post up what she sounds like screaming past!!

Hoist eh? Drop it out the bottom with gbox attatched, subframe etc. A lot quicker than out the top!. Just disconnect aircon compressor and power streering pumps from block, wiring loom connectors, hoses, brakes, top suspension arms and coil overs, and a few other little things.

Lol. The old time zones eh?

Basically undercovers were doing a shift in WA, and a vehicle drives past at an intersection pretty fast. They think he's doing a runner because his tail lights are off. They go after him and catch up to him at a red light. He gets pulled over and they tell him to explain.... He tells his story, carrying on etc, fuse blown so no tail lights or dash lights, didn't know how fast he was going. Cops had no radar on him so no conviction. He had a couple o drinks before but passed breatho. In the end he gets a notice to fix his vehicle $200 fine and they escort him home.

They just pulled up an R32 GTR skyline!! That guy was lucky!

Harsh, but funny.......... The cranks are pretty similar other than stroke. The rb25 cranks use a different part number for the bigends, not 100% that they are the bigends that use different bearing though..... There you go, use rb26 rods and your set....

Infuriating to setup!!!!!!!!!!!!! tried on mates wrx, stuff around. Instruction manual is a must, even then it's a pain. Sounds like you got into set boost mode, thats when you have to accelerate in 3rd and it will sense max boost you can run(something like that).

Sorry, cheaper in general. Eagle, Scat etc.

I run nexens on my 16's and 18's. Good all round tyre especially for the price. Good in the wet. Wear not too bad. Ran my quickest time on the 16's. Cheers.

Thats some skill you got there. Keep it up

Cheerin' Good base for a high power build!

My lines are at the bottom. Never had a problem, and on teardown of engine bearing shells were in good nick(70,000k and 400hp + atw) with oil cooler installed.

700cc sards and stock fuel rail too. It's all in the tune. Fuel pump setup will be a decider too in how much HP. I was running 470RWHP at 17psi with 2530's and a sard 280L pump. Injectors still had room left for more (500+).

yep, you got it. One of the pins is a dummy and not used from memory. Cheers