GTRsean

He had 265 17x9 He now has 295 30 R20 20x10 More to do with the better quality rubber overall, but still fat. 1JZ GTE VVTI on 1.1bar, manual has a shit tin of torque due to VVTI, so it does have issues, hence the wider rubber.

Over three years, my daily driver(thrash about, project, hobby) and still going strong. Could do with a bare metal respray though!$$$ Keep those rides coming through guys. (And yes it's a GTR) empty wallet see!!

Must go like a GTR then..............

295's with toyos on the back of my mates soarer. He now has traction in second!

weld in plate, then use a filler to smooth out. The less filler you use the better. Basically you should have something behind hole to support the filler etc.

You need different pistons with a shorter deck height.

Matches revs of engine speed to gbox speed so less wear on clutch if you heal toe to match revs. Can be up to 4000rpm difference in speed of eng to speed of gbox. My osgikken tripple plate can't be wrong(3+years 70,000k of daily driving, drags etc and still good) was already in car when I bought it 3 years ago.

Once a year. The rest of the year I'm from Sydney.

Mates rb30 bottom end had oil squirters installed into block. Basically it's up to you with what clearance you want to run. Consider the loose end of factory clearances, due to modern forged pistons having better metallurgy and manufacture, eg HKS, TOMEI etc. Consider using factory rings for best seal. Not to point too much out but this engine had put out over 600HP for the past five years or so with no issues(mainly used on street). If I was you you should consultwith an engine builder who has the runs on the board so to speak instead of heresay like this. Cheers

Mate of mine built a 25/30 eng with a T78. CP pistons, argo rods, stock crank, clevite 77 bearings, total seal rings. Built around year 2000. Due to metallurgy of jap engines, compared to yank engs, you should run closer tolerances on the jap eng. My mate used 001'-0015' tops and had no dramas. It was quiet on startup, bugger all blowby and better boost response. Don't run a big clearance as you don't need to with modern forgies these days, otherwise you get an eng that wears piston/rings/bore quicker and more blowby. Stock nissan rings seem to be the go as well as they suit the block and bed in better, self explanitory(metallurgy again). Hope that helps you make your decision.

I had a missfiring issue at idle and low load, low revs. Thought I'd lost a cylinder. Checked compression,plugs for oil etc, all ok. Cos it has cams, it's a little more missleading. Wiggled the injector plug and miss went away. Fixed that up and shes all good. Little things, always the little things. I'd go with the turbo seals for that one, followed by valve stem seal.

WHITEGOODS!!!

Spotted black r34GTT on Great western last night. Had white racing stripes on bonnet etc. He gave it a rev, I gave it a rev and left him at the lights.

Nope, but it is recommended as there ain't much head room on the stock one when you start modding, upping boost etc. Almost always a 300ZX 80mm airflow meter.

Heard they were up to no good and the cops blocked the only exit to defect em all!!

Tom is still the HKS authorised dealer.

Five stars to the youtube version!!!

Turn the volume up on your stereo!!! Works for me.

The workshop part is going to be sold from what Tom was planning, but Tom is keeping the Dyno room, office etc for selling parts and dyno tuning. Paul and Tom went their own separate ways in the business (BD4's). There is going to be a name change for the new business.

Spotted and played with MRR33T last night in Liverpool, he was cruisin with a REX

Heya wat up. We'll have to have a run one day. I need stickier tyres though.

So few cars, so many runs. I got a few vids of em running down the track.

Now at 340RWKW with stock airbox (no duct), HKS panel filter. I'd say they flow okay, but I'm still going to open up the intake on the box.

92 r32 GTR stock internals tomei poncams HKS GT2530's 720cc inj nismo pump Fcon v pro yada yada yada Done with bone stock airbox in place! 299.5 RWKW@ 0.9 BAR 340 RWKW@ 1.27 BAR (full boost at 5250rpm) Dyno sheet to follow.

You can't use 16's. Thats all I know.