breaker1845

Yoshi, Ben was genuinely trying to help you at the start of this topic but when you talk to someone like that and treat them like shit, no wonder they are going to make fun of you in the end. You clearly have no idea what to do and I doubt you've done so much work on your car without knowing what an oil pan or sump is. Do you change your oil in your car? Take some of the advice people have given you and use it because they know what will happen if you don't. Secondly you have so many ideas on what you want to do but change them so often. Why even bother looking into an rb26 conversion for months and the process if you decide to go ahead with the rb25. Take some time and pick what you want to do first, go with it then do the researching on how to install/remove. And to say you have checked online, you need to brush up those researching skills and find more information before even bothering to attempt what you want to do. Google and Yahoo is quite easy to use but you need to be broad with your searches instead of asking a specific question. You will generate more results that way. Learning to work on an engine for the fun of it can cost as much or more than to buy a car with the engine already in it if that is what you desire. Otherwise be prepared to spends lots of money and time buying parts, researching and experimenting. Also to say you don't care what people think in general, why ask questions then if you want their opinion or advice. I'll tell you right now and agree with Ben, you don't need to pull an engine out to change the mounts. Now if you think I am being an ass about my response then I don't care because quite frankly you aren't going to get far in life or your adventure with cars with the attitude and respect you have towards other car enthusiasts.

There is a whole f**king thread dedicated to RB25 dyno results that is 53 pages long. How about looking at that for a start and seeing some different results from other people's setups. In the end the choice is yours personally anyway so someone could have an entirely different opinion on each turbo. A turbo doesn't have to be that large for drifting/skidding so you wouldn't even need one as large as you mentioned because you want response. Look through the RB25 turbo thread and guaranteed you will find something you like/want.

Include SAU in your google search and it will come up with better results. 18x9.5 +15 should fit but it would be very tight and depending on tyre size also you might have issues with rubbing depending on your suspension setup. There are some websites out there that let you select your car make and it will list compatible rim sizes for factory setup. or whether you would need spacers.

Poncams are drop in and don't require modification (no shimming or tune adjustment required). Pull your coils out and bench test them if you haven't already and see if you can pick a suspect one.

Like Ben said there are entire forums dedicated for tuning. Plus it's like a job/career, its not an easy task and takes time to master, hence people paying top dollars for professionals to tune their car for them. Otherwise everyone would do it. You'll have to spend a considerable amount of time researching on what you are doing, what to look for and then you'll have to test it out on a car and having access to a dyno or road tuning . There are a considerable amount of variables involved.

Be careful getting them out and make sure nothing breaks off down in there otherwise you might have bigger issues. Best thing is to remove the plugs with correct tools and you'll probably notice their condition straight up. Change them and see if you still get the problem.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446963-head-stud-torque-pushing-coolant-600hp/ Have a read through that, some one with a similar problem that temporarily resolved it due to head studs.

If you are going to use a Nismo coppermix then you need the new pressure plate that you asked about before. You can buy a Nismo lightened flywheel but some clutch experts don't recommend them and neither would I for your car because of the changes it creates with your car, others may recommend differently. Just make sure you machine the stock flywheel. You should notice the Nismo will feel much like a stock clutch and not very hard to press the pedal compared to some aftermarket ones. Noise is also minimal or non existent much like a stock clutch but more durable. It is also recommended that you don't change Master or slaves over to Nismo with the new clutch, you can retain the stock ones. Make sure you take the time to install it properly, bleed it properly and have the clutch pedal adjusted to the right amount and allow the clutch to wear in for a bit before you decide to do any launches with it. While you have the chance, replace all of the bearings you can access that aren't provided with the kit so you can freshen up car a bit. Rear main seal, input shaft bearing, etc might be worth inspecting and getting those items replaced also if you can get the parts quite easily.

There is so much information available all you have to do is search for it instead of creating new threads every time you have a question. Have some initiative in self learning then once you can't find a solution to your question ask or see a qualified mechanic who is probably going to install it for you some advice. You have multiple options on which brand of clutch to buy depending on your power level. Huge range of websites online and probably shops you can order from also.

I've been in a GTR that experiences part of this problem slightly. Basically the gearbox is in pretty shit condition and crunches 3rd/4th so when changing into gears at 60-80kmh I have to be gentle so I don't cause more damage to the box. While doing this the engine stalls (revs drop to 0) and the HICAS light comes on. As I change gears and release the clutch the car receives power again, HICAS light flicks off and continues operating as normal. As far as I know it is some kind of HICAS problem that I am experiencing. Not entirely sure if your light comes on when the engine stalls. I have a theory that as the engine stalls when changing gears and reaches 0 rpm on the tacho, the HICAS faults out and power steering is lost until the engine comes on again. With regards to HICAS, you might have a lock bar in your r32 but you'd have the light on constantly if you did otherwise you have some sort of ECU error code that you should get checked out by going into diagnostic mode. From memory to get into diagnostic mode you need to hard lock your steering wheel left and right five times roughly and then pump the brakes constantly all within about 10 seconds. You'll get the long/short flashes etc and you'd need to check what each code means. If you get nothing then you'll get like a constant flash which indicates no codes present which doesn't necessarily mean nothing is wrong. See if you get any codes and what they correspond to. There could be issues with your wheel speed sensors, issues with the HICAS ECU itself and a range of problems. If you have changed your wheel size or rolling diameter lately that could of caused some issues with camber/toe and changed how the HICAS is reacting to that. The 1.5k rpm issue when you are starting the car straight away (after stalling) could be to do with the starter motor and engine components still rotating when you stall or electronics, not sure on that one. The 2.5krpm sounds like a protection mode (limp mode) built into the ECU to prevent damage to your engine as your electronics must be sensing there is an issue. Long story short I still have a similar issue I am trying to diagnose as its quite dangerous when this randomly happens at 70km/h or so while driving.

What Cal said is perfect, if you follow that and you are still getting knock but no signs of it through the tune then there is the chance that it could be a false reading. Having said that you might want to lower your tune to a safer limit while you work out what the issue is as you could be damaging your motor.

The fact that the ECU was made like a decade ago and there has been improvement in technology which does the job much better for a similar price. There is better ECUs out there now that can do a much better job than the PowerFC, doesn't mean it's a bad ECU just getting old. There are things that are good about the Power FC and there are bad points too but no need to go into that detail or research unless you want to go with that ECU. I have a L jetro in my GTR atm because that is what it came with and when I do an upgrade I'm not going to stick with the FC, going to move to a Link G4. There was a thread here anyway about someone wanting to go from a Power FC to Haltech in a R34 GTT, dig up that thread and see what the comments were might give you more opinions.

Why don't you go to a more modern ECU and get rid of AFM's all together. Get a Link G4 or Haltech? Power FC's are becoming old and might only cost you just a bit more (factoring the cost of buying Z32's and other shit) to get a modern ECU which would be better for your upgrades and has a huge range of features you might find useful. Tuning on light throttle with a MAF sensor can be done but takes time to get it good/perfect with the resolution you have to work with, which is more money for tuning time anyway. You can tune light throttle on a MAP sensor much easier and quicker. Difference wise, a significant amount would be visible but not by a large amount, which also depends on the quality of the tuner's work.

Do what GTSBoy said and have a look at changing your spark plugs or checking their gaping if you haven't done it recently. There is a thread on here that links to a YouTube video on how to repair or fix misfire on coilpacks. From what you have explained it seems that you get irregular arcing from one or many of your coilpacks causing a slight hesitation. Unless the misfire is bad or it happens while logging you probably won't be able to find it. I suggest looking for the YouTube video, just google "fixing misfire rb26dett coilpacks" or something. It covers in detail some tests you can do at home and the method to potentially fix your problem.

Why wouldn't you get the nismo plate to go with it? You need the nismo clutch cover you can't use the stock one.

Seen some good deals on Yokohama AD08R's recently if you want to extend the budget a bit.

The issue with the tacho is to do with dry solder joints. You can get an instrument repair shop specialising in cluster repairs to fix it fairly cheap.

I haven't personally used it before but it specifies it can withstand high heat applications, turbo being listed as one. It's called Loctite 2620, can search it and check it out, OP might be interested. Anti-seize can be useful.

Sounds like an interesting adventure and would be good to see a comparison between your current setup and the gtx housings once complete and how much it makes a difference. Quite a few people seem to be interested in a hybrid -9 to -5 as they want a bit more than what the -9 provides but not as much as the -5.

What are your current turbos? You'll get good results and better spool for sure, but the process can be quite expensive of changing cartridges if you don't already have them available. I've also read that thread, can't remember exactly what was done but it involved a lot of machining and money, haha. Also what purpose would you be trying to achieve out of doing this rather than just upgrading to something else all together?

There is high temperature varieties that can withstand some insane amounts of heat. Just need to search the right one. There is like a blue and red one, red being the better one. But you don't need it if the studs are put in correctly.

Could of kept this in your other thread instead of creating a new one. You'll want to secure the studs so they don't come out at all so you can use some products which will seat the studs. Make sure you screw the short side of the stud in and have applied some product to seat the stud and screw in until you get to the center of the stud, i.e. no thread left and leave them set before putting anything together. Can't actually remember the name of the product right now but plenty of brands like loctite and stuff produce it, just search around. If you don't seat them or install them properly you'll end up snapping them possibly if you put too much force on the stud and then you have to start at the beginning again.

Might be what you are after basically. File I found on here or one of the gtr forums a while back. Can't guarantee this information is 100% correct as I didn't create this spreadsheet. gtr_turbos.xlsx

Well for starters if its ball bearing you aren't going to be able to rebuild it unless you can source the correct bearings which would be proven difficult. Alternatively you'd have to buy a new cartridge which is pretty expensive also. Might be best to contact Tao from Hyper gear to see what he can do for you.

What he said. So you are going to run gearbox oil in a differential? f**king lol. Take Piggaz advice or if you don't want to run that, use some decent LSD oil in there at least.