breaker1845

How deep are your pockets? If you want to recondition lots on the car you could be forking out a bit of money if the car isn't in great condition to start with plus the age. 25 years old and parts need replacing or have been replaced and need to be replaced again, etc. If you are looking at importing, save yourself the headache by getting some checks done before it leaves Japan for your own security. Last thing you want is the car to be a disappointment once it gets here and a money pit to get it running before maintaining it. With regards to modifications, there are heaps of different combinations and it depends on your power goals, response, reliability etc. Have a read through some build topics, the rb26 dyno thread and the use of Google could help pin point more specific articles. Handling on the gtr on the street would be good so I doubt high end suspension mods would be needed but the basics can be covered and improve the car quite a bit. Quality tyres, brake pads and among other things together will all help the overall performance of the car.

Stock gauge is in mmHg x100 from -7 to +7, not psi for a start. Which if you do the conversion is about up to 14 psi (not quite) at +7. There is heaps of information on electronic and mechanical boost controllers and you should read up on how each works, the benefits and how it would suit your cars setup and what you plan to do in the future. There are many combinations but not all will suit what you want so picking the ideal one could take some time before even purchasing the item. Setting up a boost controller is fairly easy and there are heaps of topics on this also, but if you know f**k all about electronics or anything mechanical it could take you a long time or you will get something wrong. So take the time to learn and research and make sure its running right before boosting your car and possibly free boosting it, lol. If you have only just got the car it might be a good idea to do a full service on it if you haven't already starting with fluids, belts and anything that could be a problem while researching boost controllers.

Someone who knows what they are doing will be able to fabricate a dump pipe to cat setup for you easily. But what that muffler guy said is absolute rubbish. Joe just posted as I was typing, but yes you have to step it up if look back to his pictures he uploaded.

Another item added to the wishlist.

Heaps of combinations, but you want to try keep it legal as possible (probably isn't anyway ) and flow well. So the 4" from the dump is the best as you want bigger there. Then stepping down to 3.5" after the cat is perfect and can muffle some of the noise generated from this beast. If you didn't have to worry about emissions or noise, which would never happen in the real world, then the perfect idea would be to just route a dump pipe out the side of the car.

You should have a push type slave on the r32 gearbox and you can see its position by getting under the car and looking. You can interchange between push and pull but you need to have the correct clutch, change the slave, etc, etc and its a lot of effort for no gain really. There are kits out there that you can buy and has all that is required. If you get under the car and look you can see where the slave is sitting and that will determine if you have push/pull type setup, use google to aid you. Someone may have converted it before you but I'd assume they haven't to start with and check before purchasing the clutch. If the car has an r33 gearbox they could of converted from pull to push and you'd still be fine. If you buy the Nismo Coppermix kit it comes with a lightened Flywheel and all the goodies required to do the install except the alignment tool. Best to have a look at replacing the input shaft bearing, rear main seal and the other bearings in that region while there if they need doing.

1v1 me.

Scooby already suggested but if you do back to back runs on the dyno you will see how much that 3" cat is actually restricting you. Definitely too small for the power you're chasing and probably not worth going to a full 4" system as mentioned so just throw in a new cat that is bigger and better and modify some flanges to suit so it can all bolt up nicely.

Keep stock cams and dial them in properly and profit from not buying shafts and spend it on something better. Also out of those two ecu options I'd pick Haltech.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-heater-hose-kit-14piece-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst-gts4-rb20det-p-1598.html RB25 kit won't fit. Use this kit from Kudos instead as it will have everything you need. Check it suits your model r32. Other option is to use Nissan Fast and get the codes for each hose (14) and get them through Nissan which would probably be about the same amount and time consuming. This took 5 minutes max to search and respond so don't know how it took you a week with no results.

Which FC version are you running? L or D jetro? If the previous tune on there is running quite different variables compared to your car then most likely it would struggle to run after starting. You will need to revert back to a base map on the ecu or something so you can at least start the car.

You need to provide more information regarding power levels you want to achieve and what you plan to do with the car and other variables which all can factor the decision. You've asked a very broad question and no one can give you a straight up answer or suggestions until you provide us with some more details.

Hello, As the topic states I am after an R33 Series 3 GTR Gearbox. Needs to be in excellent condition. Post here or pm me prices, pictures and other details. Location is kind of irrelevant because if I am interested in a good box I will sort out shipping. Anything located closer to Queensland is a bonus though. Cheers

Do we need to wipe your arsehole after you take a shit too?

Spends 8k+ on VCT kit but keeps stock turbos

+25hp for the wank factor?

People make mistakes, no worries. But not admitting to them or fixing the mistakes is the problem.

Either you upgrade the AFMs to Nismo and you retune and get a better result, probably to the point where you max out the injectors/turbos and other components become limited. Or you get rid of the Nistune ECU and buy another ECU and go with a MAP based sensor and forget about AFMs all together and tune the new ECU to the point where injectors/turbos and what not will be limited.

In before it doesn't fit.

In theory these guys have to hand over a product that works correctly to a satisfactory standard otherwise they have to fix it at no charge, providing there is something actually wrong and in this case there is. They sound like they are messing around and not being professional about it. If I had a customer traveling 350km to pick up a vehicle I'd ensure it works 100% before handing over the keys. Secondly, get the password removed from the tune on the ECU if your warranty is only verbal as it won't count for squat unless it is in writing. If they claim intellectual property that is BS because there are plenty of reasons why it can't be. Hopefully all gets resolved quickly and not at much more of your expense. Otherwise I'd be going further with it.

Get used to spending money if you want to do modifications. Doing them right is essential or you will end up doing it more than once. Plus as already mentioned most boost controllers have heaps of wank factor functions embedded and all provide the same basic needs. Personally I'd have boost controlled through the ECU rather than a separate unit.

My advice would be to leave tuning to an experienced professional until you gain a solid understanding of what happens, what you are doing, etc. There are dedicated forums for tuning information and it requires a large investment of time to grasp what you need to do. One simple mistake can cost you an engine while Road tuning. Secondly you have a range of ECU options that varies depending on how much you want to spend. Obviously having someone who can deal with a specific ECU is better and would be favourable as they would tune the car. Experience with Skylines would be something mandatory in my books also. Out of the list you gave, all of those ECU's could be used in your car quite fine but each has their advantages and disadvantages.

Welcome to the forums. Be prepared to read and search for ideas on the problem, lol. Secondly get a second opinion or many more as you don't want to be spending heaps of cash on parts that aren't broken. Most gtst's are definitely old (probably closer to 200,000km traveled) and run like dog shit so working out what the issue is could take time, be prepared for that.

Lets put it this way. If you buy shit quality hose you'll be doing it again once they split or fall off, lol. I presume the JJR is okay but the best would be OEM. If you calculate the efforts spent on removing the plenum again to do the job again if the kit fails you'll see why it's worth it.

Wilmar (Formerly Sucrogren) still produce E85 in like 200 Litre drums as far as I know. Don't know how much they supply or produce though.