predator

I think its only about $30 or something like that to get it cut. Just take it to an industrial glass or mirrors place (it will be listed in the yellowpages). Haven't actually done that yet When I found out how much it costs, I'll post it here. Well its just mirrored glass.. the same sort of stuff your wall mirror, vanity mirror, etc is made of.

looks great.. not a bad idea.. less piping = slightly more response as well

says v4 on the housing.. <> will update if its back up forsale.

well could always chop off more.. crazy.. within the space of an hour heard from two ex-gf which i haven't heard from in about 6 months.. :headspin:

i think he already has been taken care of though.. lol ..

... but i thought u were jewish Josh??

Well isn't that prettit but why are you worried? you only have minor mods anyhow.. well that will be fun for you. Maybe you should buy Bracks a christmas present that ticks? Anyhow, I'm coming down to melbourne for a couple of weeks and arriving Friday night, so watch out ladies (as in you guys ).. I'll have the R31 so if a small cruise or something is happening, I wouldn't mind catching up with the old timers.. Lets see whether I can make it in and out of VIC with my license in tact..

FYI: I've just posted a tutorial on how to replace the mirror glass.. to change from concave to flat.. really simple, just did it before: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1128918

This will be useful if you need to replace your side mirrors, say if the glass gets smashed, or if you are doing your own compliance and need to change to flat from concave... Its fairly simple and should only take 10 mins anyhow, but saves you having to think about it First of all get the whole mirror assembly off the car. You may not have to actually, but it makes the process much easier. To do this you'll have to remove the door trim (remove pull handle screws, remove all screws around base and sides, pop off trim popouts, slide up).. After that if you have the plastic sheeting over the door wiring still in place, you'll have to carefully peel that back. You should see where the mirror plug comes into the door and goes to the switch. Carefully remove the plug. There are 3 x 10mm bolts that hold the mirror to the door. Undo these, making sure to hold the mirror whilst doing it, so you don't drop it. Now you should have it off... take it somewhere to a nice workbench, in front of tv, etc Look underneath the actual mirror part, and you should see a single screw. Thankfully Nissan has made it nice and easy to just get to the glass. Undo this screw, and you should be able to pull the actual part that adjusts the mirror the different angles. Now that you can pull that out slightly, you should see the extra white plug that allows you to get this part out. Carefully press on the plug, and it should come off, allowing you to remove it from the main surround Now you should have the actual glass part, and the backing plate separate. Flip it over, and you should see about 5 clips holding a sub bracket, which sits inside the actual glass holding bit. Use a long flat head screwdriver, and gradually prize it off, applying only a bit of force. Do this for each side and eventually this part will come off. So now you should just have the mirror in the rubber grip which holds in place.. but you still need to get to the glass out by itself. This probably best to do on a warmer day, or get out the g/f's hairdryer and use it to heat the back - as you will find there is some sticky chewing gum type adhesive on the back of the glass. You should now be able to see the back of the glass so again, using the flathead, very carefully apply pressure to the glass. I found it easiest to apply pressure to different sides equally, and eventually it will slip out, maybe twisting the rubber a bit to help it on its way. Bingo! You should now just have the mirrored glass on its own as one piece. Take it down to your local glass cutter and get them to cut out the same sized piece of glass.. and replace everything in the reverse process of removal! All done. Easy as you like.. :headspin:

ziptie conversion - nice

As secretary Oz - would you handle memberships? I guess I better join, I need some discounts

don't want to separate the the piping for $100 do you? I'm on the coast too..

lots something different though.. would be pretty crazy..

when is this group buy open till ? Might grab the clutch line in Jan.. wish I could grab the brake lines, not sure can stretch the budget that far though

thats a reasonable price anywhere from 300-$400.. bit of work to do it properly..

"soon" is 3-4 years time?

oil pump? pressure? What happened to your car anyhow? what car do you even have? lol

don't worry about this "direct swap business".. if you have half a brain, you can ring any of them when you get the bracket out and start thinking. I wouldn't be paying top dollar for a tomei, nismo or something pump like that which is probably just a rebadged something else at a 1/2 the price. I've rigged up a bosch and a walbro into a couple of different skylines.. both wouldn't have been described "straight" fit as they didn't fit the bracket exactly, etc.. but nothing you can't fix with a bit of ingenuity. Went I get my ass motivated, I'm going to put up a guide on how to install a pump into an R32 on a website I am doing on my buildup.. with photos, etc. Its a 30min job.

drivers side standard strut top if available? $30 ??

I'll remember to come chuck some burnouts in knox in my shitbox.. when I am down there next week, and / or make as much noise as possible :evil:

After brake lines for the R32 "mspec" brakes (the 4 pots).. both sides, basically from the body right down to where they actually bolt into the caliper. Near the caliper there is a little bracket to hold it into place, if you have that would like that too. Would be common wreck or halfcut leftovers. If you have them, please send me a PM. Don't want to pay too much, as I am sure I could get new ones made up if I have to.

yes it is from a VL turbo.. i was going to do the conversion on my R31, but decided not to.. Its in very good condition, no problems.

I think rethreading it will be the go like SteveL says.. which I know nothing about. First of all it looks like I need to get the proper lines (error #1), as they're obviously different now somebody sent me some pix. So I am on the lookout for those. I'll probably take it to a brake specialist to get them to rethread the caliper, but its not going to be until january now grunt..

Had another go today... Old disc just needed a bash with the hammer from behind to get it off. That is all I needed to get off. Exaclty as you said SteveL.. you just remove the whole bracket for the single pot, and the 4 pot just bolts up exactly to that position. Have to bash the dust shield out the way, but that is nice and thin so not a drama All was going great UNTIL the final step when all went pear The calipers and discs were bolted in.. Unbolted the brake line from the back of the single pot.. brake fluid starts coming out which I knew would happen.. so I quickly do that and start bolting it into the new 4 pot caliper as quickly as possible as to not lose too much fluid. Hang on a sec.. its not sealing properly and fluid is still coming out, even though it feels like its fully bolted in.. keep bolting giving it some strength.. **** !! stripped thread Basically I've stripped the thread for the brake line *on the caliper* which is a bit of a disaster... the "eye bolt" or whatever is that secures the line to the caliper is that extra 10mm longer than the single-pot calipers, not allowing a full seal. Of course me being a dickhead just kept tighening it, not realising this until it had stripped the thread. Thought everything else was so similar that the bolt would be the same but obviously not. I don't really know what to do now.. either that caliper is stuffed completely.. or I try and get a slightly larger eye bolt, somehow rethread the hole, and pray it can all work. Does anybody have any suggestions?? I'll have to go down to pirtek or somewhere like that and see whether they can find me the right sized eye bolt so it doesn't happen on the other side. Its the same diameter, just different length. But i've still got one farked caliper that is going to need some clever ingenuity or its $150 or something down the drain ..agg!!

Yeah.. pretty much what I suspected.. thanks Luckily I have to rip the gearbox out anyhow in a couple of months when I convert it to manual, so can probably fix it then. Will give it a degrease and proper check though beforehand though, just to see if its anything else. So its just where this blue gasket gunk is in this photo? this is off my rb25 sitting there, but should be same right? Just have to unbolt that and install new gasket there?