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By the time you get into all of that... it's not turbo'n a commo, with the design characterists of holden and ford engines they produce their power at low rpm, but produce more torque (for drivability reasons). By the time you get into changing the bore and stroke, new conrods, pistols, etc... you may as well buy a turbo engine and fit it into the commo chassis. I've seen a VP with an RB26DETT in it!!! the cheapest thing to do... if he really wants a turbo commo in to buy a turbo engine and 'drop it in', otherwise he'll need a bit of $$ to make it work!

The engine wouldn't handle high-revs, so you'd need to buy a smaller turbo to get any use out of it at all. Although it is a 3.8ltr, you probably wouldn't squeeze anymore than 8-10 psi out of the turbo before the engine melts! Better off buying a car that is turbo'd, will handle the power... and ungrades, and will turn corners rather than skidding off the road backwards into a tree! I agree... not too many VS turbo's out there, but the practicality of the situation is... Sell the Commo, buy a turbo and do it up!

I just replaced my rears, put a sub and amp in the boot, etc. THE REARS ARE 6", i haven't touched the fronts yet... ran out of $money$

I'll let you know in the next day or 2 reguarding the ADVAN wheels... still have to chase up shorter lug-nuts, etc. you selling them with 'the tool' right?

I've come up against many a WRX. All i do is turn my my 'system' to drown out their over-sized exhaust and drop the clutch from about 3.5k-4k/rpm, shift every gear at 7k/rpm and leave MAJORITY of them behind! Only WRX's that have beaten my so far are STI's and the occational MOD'd WRX. My car is stock R33GTSt S1, with 3" cat-back exhaust, I don't even bother dragging WRX's in the wet though... AWD vrs stock 205's... i couldn't handle the shame!

It really doesn't matter what channel/time it is on... I'll give you the SCOOP! You'll see a couple of older-model falcadores in gutters and around trees, police casing a few cars, falcadores doing burnouts and it'll all get blamed on young drivers and imported cars!

From my experiance, Auto-tran fluid is pink, brake fluid is a tranparent/clear/yellow and P/S fluid is greenish... this prob won't be of any use to you, and prob complicate the situation futher! I'd have to agree with DAHXX, ask a nissan dealer, or my a compliance/performance workshop??? sorry, no very useful... never had to do mine before either!

it make me feel like a big man to cut wires. LOL didn't even cross my mind... just *snip* and it was fixed!

where in melb are you... can you post a pic? will be in touch in the next few days ta for the speedy reply

1st... glad to hear every1 is ok, you all did very well given the state of the car! 2nd... stick with the RAV4, as powerful cars don't seem to be 'your thing' 3rd... maybe sell the RAV4, and buy an early 80's falcodore? It just goes to show that even skylines don't handle particularly well in the wet... 'specially after a couple of dry days, the road is JUST TOO GREASY! P.S> the only reason i'm even being remotely stupid with points 2 and 3 is that sniffy is a ledgend the way he has approached the whole thing, everyone is ok and YOU HAVE TO GET OVER IT SOMETIME... ASAP!

Wanting a set of R33 GTR front and rear strut braces/bars to fit on my GTS25-t. Looking to pay ~$500 for both, will pay extra for freight if required. ta

don't worry... saw them... got all excited and didn't read the rest of the posts... $2000, thanks, will be in touch

Skyline33... Those ADVANs are Super Advan Gen II's?? what are they... 17" x ?". Interested! How much would you be after for them?

what kind of damage to the front spoiler? interested in that and the grill cheers

Yeah, gos straight into gts/gtst, the only ting you need to do is cut the ABS/airbag wire if you don't have ABS/airbag in your car... that's what i did.

mine sits at about 1100rpm cold, then after 5-10mins goes down to 650-700rpm

I've got EBC Grenn-Stuff at all 4 corners... haven't had a prob with lock-up, etc. Yes a bit pricey (~$250 for all 4), but i think well worth it. With the nissan pads i just wasn't sure if i was going to stop in time! P.S> i also have R33 GTSt, but S1... not that it matters (S1/S2)

I did my cam belt a few months ago with the help of a mate... this is a rough guide (GUYS, CORRECT ME IF I MISS SOMETHING OUT). Drain Radiator, unplug and remove. Remove casing around the fan, and the fan itself. Remove cam-angle sensor (silver/grey thing on top-right of engine... connected to exhaust cam) Cam cover comes off in 2 pieces... 1 for the top, 1 for the bottom. Remove harmonic balancer (I strongly recomend the use of a harmonic balancer pulley) Remove all 5/6 maybe 7 bolts/screws from cam cover (top and bottom), from memory you could use an allen-key to remove these and it was was EASY/EASIER! There you have it! This will only give you ACCESS TO THE CAMS-GEARS! for the cams... you need to remove the pipe from the air-box to the inlet plenum remove 6/8 screws/bolts from casing on top of engine. BE VERY CAREFUL not to damage head-gasket as they can be re-used SH|T... [MIND HAS GONE BLANK... ONE OF THOSE WEEKS] {STAY TUNED... MIGHT REVISIT IF I GET MY HEAD ON STRAIGHT AGAIN... IF} If you have probs, e-mail me on [email protected] I can't help this weekend... sssoooo many assignments to finish for monday! But any weekend after/any evening would be fine if you were serious and would like the help. P.S> let me know how it goes as i have the same prob! Nissan told me it was the idler pulley (which is why me and my mate ripped my car apart... only to find out that it wasn't the idler pulley afterall). I was just going to let it go until my engine died and put in the RB30DET I'm in the process of working on!

very possible... but would need a more definate date/time to see if i can make it (around working 4 jobs and studying at uni)! as for the day at avalon... that's worth calling in a sicky!

Interested... but how would we work out freight? If you can't get rid of it in Perth, contact me. Thanks, Doug - [email protected]

nope, but on the Eastern Freeway thurs morning i saw i really nice Pulsar GTiR that ran into the back of a newish pajero w/towball... not much left of the front of the Pulsar!

I actually went down there *it is the question that drives us neo* I wasn't sure if my stereo would work or not... it doesn't! Just went out and bought batteries for a portable CD/Rad/Cass I have... SH|T batteries are expensive these days!!! Oh well what came you do? I don't want to replace the stereo as i don't really listen to radio (this is the first problem I've had with it)... no to mention it is a double-din CD/MD/Radio (all fed through the head-unit) + it has CD AND MD stacker controllers! tell me... what can you buy in Australia to compete... don't say MP3 player as i don't wish to scroll through 156 songs on the one CD to find the one i want! cyas tonight

THREAD... i meant THREAD... what is it with ppl one here? don't they know that when you type fast you miss some characters here and there... or are they all SSSOOOOOO perfect? cyas all tomoz

Just been down there (drive-ins) and the frequency for the movie tomoz night is FM 90.9 Mhz. My Jap radio goes from 76-90Mhz, and Aus freq. Expander goes from 94-108Mhz... GGGGRRRRRRRR! - Portable Radio for ME! If you're in the same boat as me... got a Jap stereo still in your car, sit in someone elses car... park next to someone with a good system and get them to turn there's up... bring a portal radio... or sit in silence! Just thought I'd let everyone know... I hope this doesn't change ppls minds about coming... if it does... buy a FORD you knobs! This is also my first TREAD! hooray for me! cyas tomoz ppl who are coming!

Chop, Just wondering... did you feel any difference in the cars handling? If is was the lug-nuts that came loose, that means the wheel would shake around and put your steering off, and your car would seem twitchy/rough when driving straight! It is quite possible that they didn't have proper self-locking lug-nuts on the car when you bought it from them... these lug-nuts have some form of plastic fastening on the inside where it makes contact with the 'screws' that you refered to. It is also possible that the 'screw' that broke off was the only one that didn't come loose and it alone couldn't hold the wheel in place and broke. This is more for me to try and work out what is happening... but also for you to give it some though, and quitely reflect on the dog-of-a-night that you just had! Soz to rub salt into the wound, GOOD LUCK!