grigor

Have you got an aftermarket fuel pump like an 044? If the non-return valve isn't fitted, you'll hear fuel gurgling back to the tank at the rail more loudly than standard.

The Gibson GTR's used a mechanical pump to boost rail pressure, but that was in the days before large injectors were so readily available.

Hey Ian, save your money. GTR's don't have hydraulic lash adjusters.

Somewhere in the Skyline specs, there will be stated the max. towing capacity. I know my old VS Commo is 1200kg. That's it, doesn't matter how many axles or brakes the trailer has, I can't tow more than 1.2tonne. Exactly the same with the guy's Mack . It has a spec. called Gross Combination Mass. So if the GCM on his Mack is 40tonne, he can't hook up to a 60t B double. There may be a 60t GCM model available, and it will have heavy duty brakes, chassis and more HP etc. So if you want to tow a tandem car trailer (tare weight 600kg) carrying a race car (mass 1200kg), you're definately not doing it legally behind my VS Commo and probably not even some small 4WD's, you need something like a Cruiser or Patrol.

I think it depends on the workshop equipment. Recently saw some Corvette mufflers at the local exhaust shop. They'd been replaced with an Aus built product. (To meet ADR I presume) I could lift each muffler/pipe unit with 2 fingers and yet each one was the size of 4-4L paint tins. Pipework was very complicated and beautifully bent, not sectioned. They weren't available for sale unfortunately.

If you want less 'drone', muffle the sound by fittign a more restrictive exhaust, such as an oval muffler, and/or a centre muffler. Yes it was beautifully quiet when the 3" "heavy duty turbo" mid mount was new. You could actually hear wind and tyre noise as you drove along. It lasted 1-day on the dyno and the packing cooked, turning the muffler into an expensive pipe. High performance hot/loud engines (like rotaries and turbos) need stainless muffler packing.

Looking for a re-gas, filter/receiver/dryer for a GTSt R33, 2-door in the Gympie, Nambour or Maroochy area. Tried Gympie Auto Air and Brisbane Road Auto Electrics but they both had the fear of “imports”. If you’ve got a success story, please PM me the address.

Don't Do This!!!!! Other people have wrote on this forum that it needs to be super tight, so use a breaka bar and use plenty of leverage and tighten the sh1t out of it. Do this. Anneal the copper washers. Spot on Trident.

That bleed hole may be 4mm dia at the gasket, but the orifice is only 0.5mm max inside. The bleed or leak is very very slight and probably designed to smooth the transition of the BOV open/shut.

The main thing is to know what you're reading. Engine designers usually place the temp sender in a known hot spot, so the reading will be the max. Big radial aero engines even shield number 1 cylinder from some air flow so that particular cylinder reading will read the worst case.

Importing has its risks; sometimes even containers get damaged.

Did you plug up the std bovs bleed hole? No, the BOV was as installed but with the recirc. hose off so we could gauge how much air was leaking.

My son and I tested his stock BOV on his R33. We made up bungs, plugs etc, removed the BOV recirc. pipe and pumped up the complete inlet pipework including FMIC to 2.0+bar. Results were fine. Just a slight leak which remained at 2.0bar or 0.5bar. Then we swapped the BOV for my old R32's one and exactly the same story. With ingenious valving we snapped the BOV open and shut and the tiny amount of leaking continued, it's only a metal to metal valve seat after all. At 1.3bar, his 2835 had heaps in reserve to more than compensate for the BOV leak, but if you're pushing a stock turbo to 1.0+bar, you'll have more to worry about than a BOV leak.

Most temp. sensors are either 1/8"BSPT or NPT. The Nissan's sensor hole is NOT tapered but is parallel thread with the sensor sealing against a seat cut in the aluminium housing. There is ample space to drill and tap another thread beside the existing sensors, just take care that no drillings enter the cooling system. If you decide on that cut top hose system, you must also run a grounding wire to the sensor.

Vacuum pilot control to fuel damper so just another vacuum leak. Makes you wonder about the condition of the fuel pressure hoses. Pays to replace all hoses, they're getting old.

R33 with Rb25det doesn't have an inlet air temp sensor, only the Rb26dett in the GTR's.

Why change the filter at 2,000km. If it really is full of junk at that stage, your engine has serious issues. Good quality filters are good for 10,000km. Because I'm an old fart, been there done that etc. I also know that with a blocked filter and even on cold start up, your system will run on by-pass quite happily re-circulating all the crap. I advise anyone with the 10K filter mindset to cut up the occassional filter. The cheapest insurance you'll ever get is a $10 oil filter.

The manual says 5000k's for a turbo's oil change and 10000k's for oil filters. Totally insane to run new oil through a 5000k old filter that costs all of $10.00?????? No matter what, I never go near 5000k's, always less, and I do filters at 2500k's max with a top up to bring the dipstick level correct. Anyone going to 10k's is just begging for lash adjuster problems.

Did you just forget to mention timing belt or did he actually crank the engine without the belt fitted?

350L per minute? No wonder you go through so much methanol. Do you need so much? Glen's only uses a fraction of that and recorded a max knock of 9. Haven't altered the maps either and prior to the meth kit install, I had a yellow flash pulling hard up the same big test hill at Cooroy.

some people these days need to be taken out of the gene pool. No, bring in retrospective abortion.

Quote: "SO SOMONE tell me please. I know what they are and what happens to the engine when it goes wrong, but HOW do it pick it up by ear." Buy some engine ears, or if you're really keen you can make a set for under $20 and 30minutes.

Most members don’t realise how sophisticated the controllers are. It’s not just an on/off boost controlled switch. That’s why I asked what methods other users had tried. The controller has pump duty cycle and inputs from boost or AFM. Also via laptop you can tinker with the software to adjust ramp rates etc. As for costs, $288 for 200L of Methanol isn’t too bad at all.