grigor

Must be some strange service manuals floating around. Mine: Rb26 45.5-47.5Kg-M (329-344 ft lbs) Rb20, Rb25, Rb30, Ca18 14.5-15.5 Kg-M (105-112 ft lbs) These aren't huge tensions, if you have the right gear.

It's dangerous to swap bolt specs without knowing the spec of the original bolt. The factory bolt torques or "turn of the bolt head" angles have been worked out to give the designed clamping force via bolt stretch. By fitting bolts with a higher yield strength, and still using the same factory figures, you'd over clamp the joint. Some examples; Grade/Yield strength (MPa) 4.6/240 4.8/340 5.8/420 8.8/660 9.8/720 10.9/940 12.9/1100 As an approx guide, you multiply the bolt's grade numbers to get the bolt's yield eg (8x8=640) (4x6=240) Say the factory spec was for an 8.8 bolt and you replace it with a 12.9, you almost double the clamping force if you use the same torque settings.

The instructions on the packet regarding crush of the washer are the go. Also apply a tiny tiny amount of copper based never-seize high up the threads near the washer. Nissans need them good and tight or you'll see carbon build up all the way up the threads, and that's what causes the binding with potential thread damage to the head.

nismo 550cc 0.71 At what voltage??? That looks like a 12 volt figure.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought Nismo 555's had the same lag time as the stock Nissan 370's. That is 0.64ms at 14 Volts. I believe the Rb25 default PFc setting is 0.528ms at 14 volts. You should be able to work out your correction from those numbers.

This is what you're after. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=168895

An update: The HKS Silent Power system was beautifully made with increased pipe diameter at each flange, muffler etc, but simply way too LOUD. Could only recommend it for a stock turbo engine. Trust Extreme II presently in use is not as well made, centre muffler has doubtful flow characteristics but it’s a much quieter ride. HOWEVER after it all gets hot on a long drive, the drone starts to re-appear, so again poor muffler packing is letting this system down. The next step will be a twin hand built system, sick of throwing $$$ away.

Hate this job so I made up a tool. 1-piece flat bar 32x6x150 long 2-pieces flat bar 25x5x55 long Welded so that it's 140mm between the inside faces. If you don't have a welder I guess you could bend one up from a piece of 25x5 bar x 200long, bent into the "U" shape.

That's not protection: When you try to crank, the first operation is the starter solenoid energises and pulls the pinion into mesh and the same time it bridges the contacts to send power to the starter motor. But if there isn't enough battery power, the voltage instantly drops, the solenoid gets de-energised, disengages the pinion and un-bridges the contacts to the starter motor. That sound you're hearing is the solenoid trying to engage/disenage and at the same time it's arcing away at the bridging contacts for the starter motor. It takes only a very few low battery starts to really burn up the solenoid starter motor contacts. Once they're burnt from arcing, they don't switch the high amperage starting loads too well and it's the beginning of a "sticky" action starter. That's the one where someone suggest you give the starter a hit with a lump of wood. Final situation is when the contacts weld together and so the starter stays engaged after the engine has fired.

R33 Timing belt replacement(manual gearbox) Select neutral and apply handbrake firmly. Put the keys in the console. (The valves will hit the pistons if someone tries to start it without a cam belt.) You may want to jack up the front of the car; they’re so low you’ll get a sore back. Under car: From beneath the car, undo the setscrews and remove the plastic under engine windage tray. Loosen the centre lock nut and back off the air-con belt adjuster. Engine Bay: Undo 2-plastic clips and remove cold air intake duct. Disconnect electric plug from crank angle sensor, unclip cable from timing cover bracket and tie cable clear. Mark position of crank angle sensor on timing cover, undo the 3-set screws and remove crank angle sensor. Undo 2-top radiator mounting brackets. Unclip radiator overflow pipe and tie clear. Undo bottom radiator hose at core and drain coolant into bucket. Undo top radiator hose at core and tie hose back and clear. Disconnect temperature probe at plug on right side of core and tie cable clear. Undo 4-nuts holding fan clutch to water pump and manoeuvre fan off the hub and gently rest it against the radiator core. Carefully lift radiator complete with cowl and fan up and away. Loosen power steer hinge bolt slightly, back off belt adjuster then remove power steer belt. Loosen alternator bottom hinge bolt slightly, back off belt adjuster then remove fan belt and water pump pulley. Remove air-con belt. Undo cam belt top cover set screws (take care with rubber grommets) and remove top cam belt cover. Select 4th gear, apply handbrake firmly then loosen harmonic balancer retaining bolt. Remove bolt and thick washer then screw bolt back in by approx 8-turns. For an Rb20 and Rb30, there are 2-M6x1.0 tapped holes at 70mm centres in the balancer for the puller bolts. For an Rb25, there are 2-M6x1.0 tapped holes at 75mm centres in the balancer for the puller bolts. Using 50mm long setscrews in these holes, and a suitable puller, pull harmonic balancer. You will have to unscrew centre bolt more as the balancer slides off. Don’t drop the balancer as the pulleys are easy to chip. Select neutral gear. Undo cam belt bottom cover set screws (rubber grommets again) and remove bottom cover. Remove keyed pressed metal belt guide from crankshaft. Replace the harmonic balancer bolt and using your Tee brace and socket; rotate the crank until each timing mark on the gears lines up with the marks on the rear cover. Intake cam mark is at approx 10 o’clock, exhaust cam is at approx 2 o’clock and crank has keyway up with mark at approx 5 o’clock. (Don’t worry if any old painted marks on the belt don’t line up with the timing marks on the gears.) Check the new belt has timing marks painted on it. (Nissan belts have marks, some others don’t) Now are you sure you can imagine the new belt lining up on all those marks? OK, loosen the tensioner centre bolt and using an Allen key, rotate the tensioner away from the belt as far as it will go, then nip up the centre bolt. Slip off the old belt. Now you must decide about water pump, tensioner and idler. If you replace the idler, locktite its retaining bolt before torqueing it back up. NSK 56TB 2801 B01 ENSL 309 If you replace the tensioner, take care positioning the spring correctly, then rotate it away from the belt and nip up the centre bolt. NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806 If you replace the water pump, make a template gasket to keep for future reference. Certain models move that 6mm setscrew near the centre top. The Nissan belt can only go on one way. It’s clearly marked and really obvious if you’ve got it back to front, as the painted marks will be way off. New belts are a bit tighter to fit and you’ll need a hand to get all the marks lined up. I use a mirror to see the crank gear mark. If you’re having lots of trouble, chances are you haven’t rotated the tensioner away far enough. Once it’s on, loosen the tensioner centre nut and the spring will apply a slight load to the belt. Now have a really close look and be dead sure the marks are all correct. With the car in neutral, use the balancer bolt and your socket Tee brace again to rotate the engine about 6 times to settle the new belt on to the gears. Now this is what I do. With the tensioner still loose, slowly rotate the engine so that the belt is under tension (on the exhaust side) and simultaneously nip up the tensioner centre nut. The belt should now be tensioned. Torque up the centre nut on the tensioner and remove the balancer bolt from the crankshaft. Check the key hasn’t fallen out of the crankshaft, and then just put it all back together. Locktite the harmonic balancer bolt when torqueing it up. Be very careful you don’t drop anything down the cam belt covers during assembly. The crank angle sensor drive can only fit one way on the camshaft spline, so take care to line this up when re-installing. After you get it started, purge all air from the cooling system including turbo, heater etc. Check your ignition timing with a timing light connected to number 1 coilpack harness, not the Nissan loop at the igniter module. You might hear a slightly different cam belt noise if you fitted an idler or tensioner until the bearings have done some work. First time takes a max of about 4 hours, and you may need assistance slipping on a new belt. I can guarantee that blood will be spilled. Rb20 and 30 puller, made from 10mm thick plate cut to this shape to clear the casting lumps on the balancer. Rb25 puller similar but with 75mm hole centres. NOTES: Tensioner changes: NSK 60TB0683 has replaced NSK 60TB0732A If your engine has bigger cams, tension the belt slightly more. I found the different cam load caused the belt to slap noisily against the tensioner at around 1800rpm; at any other revs it was quite normal. The Rb26 has the balancer bolt tensioned at 45.5 to 47.5KgM (330-340ft lbs) The other engines have a smaller headed bolt and it's tensioned to 14.5 to 15.5kgM. (105-115ft lbs)

BROKEN EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS. Block the exhaust ports and any other pipework with rags and clean the stud area. (Don’t be too critical of this head, it’s just on old Rb30 unit for the demo) Photo 1. Use a sharp centre punch to accurately centre mark the broken stud. Photo 2. Start with a pilot drill and drill squarely and centrally right through the stud. Photo 3. Increase the drill bit diameter to that specified by the stud removing tool manufacturer. Take care. Photos 4 & 5. The stud tool is made from top quality steel so if it breaks off in your stud, you’ll never drill it out. Do not use the old tapered “Easy-Out” style of stud remover, buy the correct tool. Photo 6. Apply some WD40 or CRC to the threads via the hollowed stud then drive in the stud tool. Photo 7. Slip the sliding nut right up close to the broken stud to reduce torsion in the tool. Photos 8 & 9. Unscrew and withdraw the broken stud. Photo 10. Using a bottoming tap, clean the threads in the cylinder head. The thread size is M10x1.25 Photos 11 & 12. Use the double nut method to install your new stud. Photo 13. Remove the double nuts and thoroughly clean the area using compressed air. Carefully remove all rags from pipework. Use a vacuum as drill turnings will be everywhere. HINTS. This demonstration uses tools available to the average home mechanic; however a right angled drive drill is best for the studs at the firewall. I always replace all the studs, not just the broken ones. If available, left hand drill bits are brilliant for drilling out broken studs. The heat generated during drilling is usually sufficient to wind the broken stud straight out on the end of the drill bit. While the exhaust manifold is removed, drill and tap out any broken heat shield bolts. The 4-studs for the turbo often loosen in the manifold even though their nuts are held captive with tab washers. This is the ideal time to ensure those studs are re-tightened into the manifold. Offer up the manifold without a gasket to ensure the slotted holes have sufficient room for expansion. The end cylinder’s slotted holes may need easing to achieve sufficient clearance. Make DEAD sure all rags are removed from induction pipework etc. Remove the CAS plug and crank the engine to prime oil up to the turbo. PURGE ALL AIR FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM ON RE-START.

R32 AIRCON PULLEY BEARING. Puller plate info: Flat bar 50 x 6. 3 - 6mm dia. holes on 38mm PCD. Photo 1. Remove the pulley centre bolt. Photo 2. Fit M6 x 20mm long setscrew into centre bolt hole by approx 8mm. Photo 3. Fit pulley plate using 3 – M4 x 20mm setscrews over centre bolt. Photo 4. Tighten down on the 3 – M4 setscrews until the clutch plate rises off the parallel spline. Photo 5. Remove all setscrews and clutch plate. Photo 6. Remove circlip. Photo 7. Using a 3 - jaw puller, remove the drive pulley. Photo 8. The bearing in the drive pulley is now accessible. Photo 9. The magnetic coil is now also visible. 10. Take the pulley to a machine shop where the peen indentations can be skimmed off with a lathe, the bearing replaced and peened in again. 11. Clean all components taking care to remove magnetised particles using compressed air. 12. Lightly oil the wick dust seal before re-fitting the clutch plate. 13. Assembly is simply step by step in reverse order.

I'll generalise a bit: Diesel oils contain very high amounts of detergents to remove carbon build up. That's why the oil goes black so quickly in a diesel, when the oil's doing its job correctly. Use it in a petrol and you get the same result, bye bye carbon seal and hello blow-by. USED to be popular with race engines in the olden days before modern synthetics etc came onto the scene, but that's hardly a recommendation for the every day car engine. If you really want to ruin your petrol engine's carbon seal try some 2-stroke diesel oil. That's super high detergent to keep ports, pegged rings etc clear from carbon.

Quote: A human will see a hill ahead and instinctively step on the gas a bit before the hill and likewise, ease off when nearing the top. The cruise control can't predict this, so it tends to struggle up the hill and overshoot at the top. I thought that's exactly what I just said. Nobody drives at 60 with cruise on CCCP. Well maybe my dad but he loves his cruise. Mad 082 I know how cruise control works and how you can alter your ramp rates etc.etc But if you don't have sufficient power to start with, as in your VX, you'll find at the top of the hill the acelerator will be right down. Check your torque curve on the VX. At cruising speed, it will be doing around 1800-2000rpm. Probably making about 50rwkw. Only takes the aircon to cut in and you've lost 5KW. Whereas if you'd dropped back a gear at the start, you'd be in peak torque range and the car would eat the hill. As for the modern trucky Turbo Dave, keep at it. You've got a lot of miles to catch up.

Quote: or you need a more powerful car. Too true. But seriously, get in an ordinary como or a falc and let them run at a hill with cruise on. At the top of the hill, check where the accelerator is. She'll be flat to the floor. That's not economical driving. I get so sick of following shit boxes on cruise. You'll see them drop back to 90, then slowly pick back up to 100, then roll down the other side with the brakes on. You can really notice the stink from falc's and camry's running megarich. All this in an energy conscious age. Like I said, great on the flat but use your brains at the hills.

Quote: the theory is that with the cruise activated you not doing as much when driving such as looking at the speedo all the time to check your speed cos with the cruise you know its what you set it at hence no looking up and down every few seconds..... As a truck driver I know that it makes it a hell of a lot easier to do the long trips!!! Reading stuff like this makes my blood boil!!!! As a truck driver I know you MUST check everything all the time. There are thousands of "experts" who continually remind us that we must concentrate when driving, no eating, no mobiles, no radio, no smoking... the list goes on and on. Yet the concentration of our driving public is getting worse. The more aids we supply, it seems the less concentration of the driver. OK when I started driving, we had trailer brakes and truck brakes(no foot/hand combination), 24-speed quad box(2-gearsticks no synchro), 250max Hp, even had a mechanical hand on the door. Yet with all this action in the cab, we could dodge potholes while seeking out the smoothest part of the road ahead, watch the load, check mirrors..... Now at 57 I can go outside, walk my excavator and take a swipe with the bucket while slewing. Not superman, just practice. Education is what's needed, not gimmicks. Some info: Cruise control can't see that big hill coming up. So if you wait until it drops into its operating range, you're down a gear before you know it. You MUST help it by booting it into the hills. Sure it's great on the flat, but all this bulltwang about better economy is only from drivers who can't maintain a constant speed. We've all seen them, 80 on the highway, 120 on the passing lane, I guess they need all the help they can get.

phase2motortrend New R33 PFc's with commander for Rb25det, $1280 at your door.

Quote: "you are also being charged for driving in a manor dangerous as it is raing (which it wasn't) and that the road was a poor surface" Always thought a "manor" was a grand estate with a magnificient house, servants etc. Did he really spell the word "manner" incorrectly? Time for a sharp lawyer.

This has got to be a no-brainer. We live in Aus right, it gets HOT. Black sucks that heat right up, aircon has to work overtime, you can't hold the steering wheel, get burnt bits from the seat belts, you're hood lining droops, dash suffers more than usual, etc etc. Black cars and sunroofs belong in another hemisphere. I'll admit a nice clean black car looks great, but in someone else's garage.

Come on guys!!!! Surely you don't think you get ALL the old oil out when you do a conventional oil change. Even if you do a hot change and then leave it drain overnight, there will still be oil in turbo lines, galleries, cylinder head pockets etc. 99% of oil coolers are full flow, not by-pass, so any oil in the cooler will be filtered before it goes through the engine. If you also fit a remote filter, that filter too is always mounted downstream of the cooler. So don't panic. Change your oil/filter as per usual and top up according to the dipstick.

If you can't get the Apex solenoid you can use: SMC VT307-6G-01 (12V DC) Available from an industrial pneumatics supplier. SMC is top quality, you might use their part number to cross reference a cheaper manufacturer.

Check out Turbo Tim’s R33 in the DIY section under the title, “R32 tow bar myths”.

Aus. spec SR20det and auto's are 370cc from my info.

Anyone with the remains of a half cut could help you. Check the items for sale section.