AlexCim

Stock is fine. Just check it for cracks (Mine was cracked between 3 and 4) Aftermarket stainless ones are shit unless you spend big money. They WILL crack if cheap.

I used your euroline specs as a guide to what would fit

I have a brand new Garrett 3076R for sale. It cost me $2100 AUD You can have it for $1500AUD + shipping to JP (probs $100) Details/photos -> http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=277649 Will suit your drifting application perfectly seeing it was designed for a 2L and is rated to 525hp....In fact my friend has the same turbo on his R33 GTSt and makes 290rwkw. T3 flange and externally gated (the only proper way to be gated)

CST's suit nicely.

He said circumference, read his reply again. He said wheel diameter is irrelevant. The wheel is the metal part, the tyre is the rubber part. Hence, it doesn't matter about the size of the metal part as you adjust the size of the rubber part. Keep them the same rolling diameter and then it is fine. You could run a 20 inch skinny wheel with a 20 profile tyre on the front and a 15 inch wide wheel on the rear with massive profile, they will be the same. Rim size, width, offset, NOTHING matters as long as you adjust the tyre profile to suit. My stagea ran 18x10 with 235/45 on them and 18x9 225/45 and it was fine. Never shuddered, never burnt clutch packs whatever, it was fine. In the end as well, its only a transfer case. Sure a rebuild will cost $2000 but shit, I have found series 1 auto gearboxes WITH transfer cases for $250. Add labour and materials to change it over, thats a grand total of under $500. Not only that, but its not like a shat transfer case will mean the car is un-driveable, it is just rwd without choice. However, maybe not everyone is like me an realizes that "its just a car" and that "its just money" and the most important thing is happiness (whether that comes from running mismatched/sized wheels or not)

I am more than certain they would be the same as skylines. You can just use 1cm spacers and that will help heaps, did that in my Silvia and it was king

Any japspec exhaust will fit 100% I had a Fujitsubo Leglis R - Quite as hell, flowed alright but sounded slightly restrictive. Also had an exhaust technologies one - Much better, nice burble, sounded tuff Blitz exhausts are loud.

Nice fitment on the Stagea, what wheels are they? I was running 10 +20 rear and 9.5 +1 fronts on my Stagea. To me it wasn't extreme fitment, but for Australian standards it was a fair bit extreme. Would have lowered it more but the suspension did not allow me, plus the rear sometimes sagged during towing so the height that I had was idea. I left the front gaurds untouched, and the rears just got a lip. Didn't want to flare incase I put thinner/higher offset wheels when selling, but the guy bought it with the wheels. Here are two photos of my previous two cars. My first car: My second car: I want to buy another Stagea in future and VIP the shit out of it. Stagea + VIP = WIN

20's will fit, STAGENs car came with 20 inch BBS wheels from JP.

Oh yeah, now I see the coilovers and all that. I had the whole SK group buy kit, but I am certain now re-reading this that they would be very on par. I must have skipped over it as its not divided into sections (Engine/Box, Suspension, Body etc). Maybe make it like that to be a bit easier to read?

I sold mine for 17,000 drive away with everything. Though, I had no leather and was auto. Although this doesnt have the suspension or wheels of mine it is manual. Big +ve for many. I think it shouldn't sell for less than 16-17. Good luck, I understand.

Pictures?

Don't be a pussy. Wheels are not made to fit cars, car are modified to fit wheels. Lip, roll and pull whatever you need. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...31#entry3524231 My Stagea had 18x10 +20 rear with 235/40 tyres and 18x9 +26 (with a 25mm spacer, so it effectively was +1) front 225/40 tyres. Look in the above thread for pictures. Rear guards needed a lipping, fronts were fine. None of them were rolled. With a roll I would have gone less negative rear camber to make them stick out even more.

If it gets worse the hotter the engine bay is, its coilpacks.

The RB25DE is too shit to bring into Australia. You can only import the turbo models. But for 45,000AUD you would get a full bombed off the dick 400awkw+ 260RS. A base model 320i with no options here is about 55,000AUD + on road costs (registration, tax etc). Maybe 63,000AUD all up. For 100,000AUD you buy like a 335i or similar.

Get some other coilpacks and swap them, see if that fixes.

I too used CyberStorks and did not like them. The needle slightly caught as well on them..

14.2@99mph. Runs that 1/4 mile only because of the lag the motor had, below 5000rpm it made average power/acceleration. The sweet spot was 5k+. A proper ECU would sort that IMO. 180awkw on a hub dyno in 100% humidity and 38 degree day. Should be around 200awkw I think in cold weather. If the car had some injectors/eco, it would easy make over 200awkw day in day out.

I think the way the world is going, SUV's are going to start having taxes associated with them. At least, in Australia.

Don't you worry, they will eventually even if it isnt called a Stagea. They were not going to make another GTR, Supra, RX7, Silvia or any of that stuff, but they will eventually.

It's easy to get what you want when you are the boss hehe. Don't worry, I had RWD for a little, it was great but AWD is so much better. Plus, trust me, you CAN slide around an AWD just as well as a RWD.... I am definitely going to consider an M35 as one of my future cars though, or if they make a 36 that would be even nicer.

Company car. Still saving for a house

In S1's you cant move it to the bottom. The mounting holes are no good for it as its designed for a headunit instead. I don't think there will be problems with the wire lengths.

I bought a brand new Mitsubishi Evo IX

Mike, I thought Darrin's answer was pretty straight forward. Yes. That to me means "Yes, It can, I have done it, everything fits fine"