AlexCim

(I am talking from a Series 1 Stagea perspective) You can't compare a Stagea to an Evo. I just went Stagea -> Evo IX and there was a reason to do it. The Evo is a rally car, the Stagea is a GT car. It can be fast, handle well, but it will never be as good as an Evo. The response on the Evo is amazing compared to the Stagea, thats just the 4G63 and turbo set up. RB's are naturally laggy, the M35 motors are probably very similar to that. You will eventually learn that the Stagea is a family car and is no Evo. The only things I can recommend to do you is, more boost, more flow (air filter, GOOD intercooler, exhaust) and shift kit auto. Thats all

I am happy that I wont see it every day. The car bought by a guy called Brad from Tas. He is a friend of "potsy" aka "wagon85" (I think)

Hey guys, Havn't seen much of me in the last 6 months to 1 year and unfortunately don't know too many of the new members that have joined recently. For those that don't know who I am or which one my car is, I have been involved with Stagea's since back in the days of 05 when I first got mine (was my first car). From the first moment I set my eyes on a Stagea in 04, I knew that was the car for me. I had heaps of fun and enjoyed to be involved with this forum. I want to say thank you to all those helped me through the questions that I have had in the past and all of your input was helpful. To a degree, I wish I had all the resources that new Stagea owners have now but for those that were there for the first "what the hell is this" or "what the hell does that do" or "how the hell do we do that" threads, it was fun learning things from nothing. The Stagea has taught me a lot not only about cars but also about driving. They are a FANTASTIC car and honestly, I feel sad in having had sold mine. If I could have, I would have kept it but I am certain that many of you on this forum know what I mean when I say I had to sell it due to other financial commitments. Now, for those interested in what happened to the car on Saturday it boarded the spirit of Tasmania and went down to Tasmania. I know the car is going to love it down there with the cold intake temperatures and winding roads. The final price it was sold for was $17,000 AUD with 1 years rego and no RWC. The car was sold as is with EVERYTHING on the car. Interestingly, I was asked if anything broke over the 3 years I had it, and after thinking for a while actually, the only issue I had was the cracked exhaust manifold and coilpacks. So I am sure its got many more km's/years left in it before anything will go wrong. This was the car for those that don't know: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...l&p=3541817. Australia's first Series 1.5 and as far as I know, one of the most modified RB25 Stagea's in Australia. Not just engine wise, but the whole car. I worked it out as having spent over $20,000 on modifications plus the cost of the front end... oh well! It was fun! To the new owner, if you read this, please take care of her . She was my first, and I was her first to pull her apart and replace bits, I am sure you can understand why she means so much to me, hehehe I will pop back every once in a while. 3intheback - I WILL get that wing off Freddy, he is just being a prick about it.

Already bought the Evo Yeh, I wish it was a typo too! Parts are not plentiful and a good spray isnt cheap. On another note guys, the car has been sold this weekend. Thanks for everyone that was interested and to those that were interested and didn't call/come look/question about it, too bad because you really did miss out on the best value for money Stagea kicking around.

No. But, get them lipped anyway, useful in future.

I run 9's on the front and 10's on rear. Fit fine without much modification to gaurd (only just bent the inner lip up) Seems to drive fine with 225/40 fronts and 235/40 rears.

Seeing I have done mods in both the brake, engine, suspension and interior department, I will recommend the following in the following order. Swaybars - $400 Castor bushes - $100 Bilstein shocks - $900 for all 4 Automatic shift kit - $450 Braided lines - $400 (If money permits ) It really depends on the type of person you are though, if you like handling, straight line, comfort etc. I like handling

Still for sale! Now on carsales.com.au

Thats why I am saying its seriously good value for money.

In all seriousness, mine is the best value Stagea around for sale at the moment. The work on the car is worth 20k alone and as you can see, money was not only spent on that car on fun mods, but also on sensible stuff (handling, stereo, towbar, rebuilt brakes etc). Here is the add on NS.com: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=276474 and I just put it up on carsales today too. Give me a call, <removed>. Come look at it and speak to me in person. I live in Nunawading near the corner of Canterbury/Springvale, so not far from Ringwood where you are. I have had mine for nearly three years and have a very well detailed knowledge of Stagea's and their workings too. I am happy to pass on as much as you want to know. BTW - 15k without wheels, 17k with wheels. RWC and JUST renewed rego till Jan 09 included with either.

The fronts, maybe 15mm The rears, 10mm or so. It really depends on how you measure it too. I mean, my lip sits on my guard when I have enough weight in the back, but then, if you measure "sticking out" from the top of the wheel then it would be sticking out 0mm, but thats with about 2 degrees negative camber. The best bet for anyone is test fit before you buy, if the wheels hard tyres. If they don't, find something similar and see if you like the fitments. I am more of the attitude "get the wheels fit, make the car fit them second". However, my guards are full stock, only a lipping of the rears was needed. Each to their own, its understandable.

I would probably say the rating has to be the weight of the car, divided by four. So 1800kg / 4 = 450kg.

You'll fit those sizes easily on the front and rears. You will not only have more inner clearance than me but your wheels will also not stick out as much. The fronts will look very sunken though (in my opinion) I run 18x9.5 +1 fronts and 18x10 +20 rears. Front camber is 1 degree, rear is 1.5 degree. Rear guards have a lip (just the inside lip bend up). For these camber levels you probably wont need after market adjustment as when the car is lowered to suit the wheels, they will naturally camber in. Camber kits are often installed to remove camber. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3525623 Go for it IMO

I know most of you people on here are hardcore law abiding citizens, but have you ever thought of just buying a old clapper of a wagon and just putting those plates on your M35 and just driving that around? Sure, no insurance. Sure, no TAC. Sure, fines if you get caught. But hey, at least you can use your car while you have it? (This view is coming from someone who sees this kind of stuff every day. Dont hold it against me)

Make: Nissan Model: Stagea RS4 Color: Silky snow pearl white, it’s a non standard optional factory color Year: 1997 with Series 2 front update VIN/Engine number: Available by demand for checking if a stolen vehicle/rebirth etc. Its not, but I don’t mind people checking. Engine: RB25DET KM: Currently 128,000km Driveline: ATESSA E-TS 4WD, 4 Speed automatic with overdrive, automatic with MV automatics upgrade valve bodies Specific details on maintenance Engine oil: Castrol EDGE, formally “Formula R” (5000km serviced) Oil filter: Genuine Nissan (5000km serviced) Brake fluid: Castrol superDOT 4 (Replaced every ~15,000km) Transmission fluid: Castrol Transmax Z (Replaced at 98,000km with valve body upgrade) Coolant: Castrol Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil (Replaced at 98,000km after front series 2 update) Spark plugs: NGK Copper BCPR7ES (Replaced every 5000km with oil) Air conditioning re-gassed at 98,000km after series 2 front update Features of the car * Air conditioning * Power windows * Folding rear seats * Reclinable rear seats * Power mirrors * Cruise control * Power steering * Rear window wiper * Shockers on the bonnet to hold it up * ABS * Driver and passenger airbags * Rear cargo area 12V socket * Hooks built into the rear cargo area floor pan, for use with tie-downs * Cup holders front and rear * Climate control Aftermarket modifications Engine/Driveline: * GCG highflow turbo (Cost $1950 + installation) * Aftermarket exhaust from “Exhaust Technologies” in Adelaide (Was $1580 custom made) * Highflow catalytic converter from www.bosimporting.com.au (Cost $440) * Bosch 040 in-tank fuel pump (Cost $280 + installation) * TRUST V-SPL GTR FMIC and custom made stainless steel piping, NO HOLES CUT for pipes in chassis! (Cost $450 for the intercooler, $600 for the piping, plus installation) * Splitfire coilpacks (Cost $800) * Jaycar IEBC electronic boost controller (Cost $80 + installation) * Jaycar DFA air/fuel controller (Cost $80 + installation) (Currently with SydneyKid gettind adjusted) * Apexi SITC (Cost $250 + installation) * Car made 180awkw on a hub dyno on a 40 degree/100% humidity day * Timing belt changed when I bought the car, with 75,000km on the clock. Idler pullies/belt tensioners checked and found OK * Upgraded automatic gearbox with an MV automatics valve body upgrade. (Cost $480 + installation) * Larger Davies Craig transmission fluid cooler (Cost $150 + installation) Brakes: * Had the front and rear calipers checked, cleaned and rebuilt 5000km ago. At the same time installed DBA 4000 series rotors on the front, new Nissan rotors on the rear, new Nissan handbrake pads, New Bendix Ultimate pads on the front and Bendix pads on the rear. (From memory, was about $1500 total at the time) Handling: * FULL Bilstein/Whiteline suspension kit bought from http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592 including shocks/springs/castor bushes/camber bushes/subframe alignment kit/new bump stops/new dust covers (Cost ~$2250 + installation of bushes + wheel alignment) * R33 GTST front strut brace, painted in black (Cost $80) Body: * Series 2 stagea front end update (Cost on the update was $14,500 including parts, painting, fitting, electrical changes, everything). Work performed by Luci and his crew at Melbourne F1 Panels in Fawkner. * Excellent condition Work VS-KF Chrome wheels. 18x9 +1 fronts and 18x10 +20 rears with Yokohama DNA GP's on the front and Dunlop LM702's on the rear. (Cost $2500) * Will include 4 standard R34 GTT wheels Other: * 2000kg capacity (Yes, TWO TONNE) tow bar from Towbars of Wooden in the ACT (Cost $560 + installation) * JVC headunit, Hertz HSK165 front splits, Hertz HCX165 rear 2-way speakers, Audison SRx 4 channel amplifier (Cost $1500 + installation) * Cyclops 2 point immobilizer, black wired, Australian insurance compliant, installed at Performance Car Audio in Bayswater Melbourne (Cost $450 installed) * Aftermarket cruise control (VERY VERY handy in Australia. Cost $500 + installation) * Heaps of stock parts to chuck in also I have had the car since May 2005 personally, where when I purchased, it was in 100% stock condition, so I know the entire history of this car from stock. As you can see about everything spent on this car, no corners have been cut with cheap modifications (bleed valves etc). Everything has been done once, and done right with better than expected results each time. One thing that I am meticulous of is serving, with every 5,000km bringing around an oil/filter/spark plug change. This is something that was never missed and as such, the car has NEVER broken down. The great thing about a Stagea is that you don’t have to give up performance cars just because you need the space. This car has more go than most and also leaves lots of space for carrying things around/towing etc. I have personally towed several cars on trailers, a 6x4 foot trailer around many times, and had up to 10 people in the car at once. So trust me, there is lots of space. I am located in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne. Will ship the car interstate to anywhere in Australia at the expense of the buyer. Also, will easily provide a RWC with the car if the buyer is in Victoria Reason for sale? I want to buy an Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Asking price: $19,000 including EVERYTHING listed above, nothing to be removed! Negotiable on the price a little and SOME parts can be removed to reduce the cost (Can remove wheels and reduce $2,000 straight away) Contact me on <removed>, or PM

dont take out the barrel, take out one of the locks from the doors or the boot lock man.

That wont work. Ever notice how a key wears down after use and eventually becomes just a flat edge with no bumps? Well, as the key wears so do the pins in the lock, meaning a brand new specifications key with highly accentuated edges will no work any more as the pins have also worn down to accept the worn key. I would suggest you remove one of your door handles or the lock from the boot and go to a locksmith and get a new key cut that way.

CV joints could also cause the shudder

You will need Gaurds, Bonnet, Front bar, Grill, Headlights, High beam lights, indicators/fog lights, front bar reo and thats it. Dont need to change the rad support, just drill a few new holes.

I might be interested in this. I need just the S2 Dayz front bar to complete my car.

To remove the rear bar is a prick of a job. There are the clips along the top of the rear bar, then there are bolt inside the rear 1/4 panels. To get to these, you have to remove the boot trim, the side boot trim needs to be peeled back and they are in there (rachet spanners are pretty much a 100% necessity) I think that is all there is.. ?

I couldnt care less who comes (lol, meaning, what car they have) I have been busy as fark this week, havnt had time to do anything. Will try to update the post ASAP. In regards to the cruise, im down for whatever really.

Here is a list of the quality of tyre that I have bought for my Stag. I chirped them all. - Yokohama DNA GP - Advan Neova AD7 - Dunlop LM702 - Michelin Pilot Precida - Federal SS595 - Hankook K104 Here is the quality of tyres that spin all 4 in the wet - Nankang E505 (or something like that) [Came with the car] - Wanli something [borrowed wheels off a mate, these were on them]

For the weight difference to be significant over the traction advantage id think that power for power, you should get a better time than an AWD. Either way, low 14's is a quick street car but everyones cousins non turbo VL runs a 11, so their VL MUST run an 8... without ever having gone to the track.

No, I am not. But I don't give a shit about my gearbox anymore. Its dieing anyway and I want a manual box (I am of the theory, don't fix/replace until its TOTALLY rooted) Slight rubbing on the rear at the moment, I am lipping my guard tonight (just bending the inside lip up, not flaring or rolling). Once that lip is bent up, HEAPS of clearance (What I deem as heaps ) The front wheels fit just outside the guard and my front shocks are pretty stiff (SK GB), as of yet to bottom them out. Either way, both wheels camber in to clear. The tyres on the front now are pretty square, even with a stretch (tread design). The next tyres should be more rounded. My theory about fitting wheels is get the wheels first, then adjust the car around to suit. If thats with tyre stretch, negative/positive camber, lipping, rolling, flaring etc. All I checked on these was inner clearance to the shock, of which there was plenty both front and rear. The fronts don't scrub inner or outer guards either.