Jago

what the f**k is dosing?

Hey all. Just need a bit of advice/clarification with what rods to use for my RB24 build. I purchased a set of standard RB26 rods, and was planning on having them shot peined, linished/balanced and cryo treated. Now, a set of brand new forged RB26 eagle rods have become available to me for a decent price. I've heard mixed things about them. One person has told me they are shit and to avoid them like the plauge, another has told me they are alright and there shouldn't be any problems with this. If i got the Eagle rods i was planning on having them perfectly balanced up anyway. Any thoughts/comments/suggestions/help on what to do/which way to go? Or can anyone comment on the quality of the forged RB26 eagle rods? I want strength and reliabilaty. I'm not chasing max power (yet, still a while off). But when i get it built i want to make sure it's built right. Cheers.

What's the quality like on eagle rods? I've heard really really mixed reactions. One person said they are completely shit and to avoid them like the plague, other's said they are good. A set have been made available to me for a decent price, I'm not sure whether or not to use the standard RB26 rods, have them shot peined, cryo treated and linished/balanced, or to get the eagle rods and just make sure they are all balanced. Anyone?

Hard to argue with them figures.... Stock cams etc?

Power to weight ratio mate, that's why he's running them times. That's why i want to compare engines as is, not engines in the cars. The engine might be stock, but everything else also counts towards 1/4 mile times, i.e suspension setup, weight etc. In the end of the day that gives f*ck all of a comparison.

buy it. Probably won't find it cheaper as a new unit here unless you go direct to Bee*R. I think allot of suppliers broke off deals with Bee*R because of long waits and poor service, well, i think that's why Otomoto did. Anyway, there's them options, or wait for a 2nd handy to pop up. Im getting one myself, as i have NO rev limiter =[ (so no im not buying it for the rice factor (flames and popping) )

where the hell are they going to keep it if/when it goes back to India though O_o Are there even any decent strips there? Any idea on a rough budget/cost of the buildup? Or is that "confidential"? If i were the owner, i'd keep it here, in fear of it getting vandalized or stolen or something. Then again, maybe India isn't that bad, just a minor shithole, not a major =/

Dunno bout you, but i always found TIGing easier, more control with the feed/gives you better finish. MIG is all about stability, constant pace and distance. All takes practice. TAFE is the best way to learn though. For those in Sydney, Grant Heely at Granville tafe would be your best bet

sick 'em rex

Chasing an undamaged (if it is damaged in any way do not bother unless it is repairable and the price is low) RB26 crank (prefferably R33 GT-R, but a 32 will suffice). Preffer **SYDNEY ONLY** as i would like to inspect it before buying it. If you have one available, shoot me a pm. Cheers, Phil.

has the guide been LEGALLY copyrighted? As in, is it officially done? If so, sue under copyright law, or demand royalties (im no lawyer, but yea, work off that )

So, can anyone, or any tech gurus perhaps give some sort of comparison, with pro's and cons of both? Talking about an RB26/30 hybrid here too

what are the 979's rated at? (what power figure can they support)

whre in syd are you? RB24 time me thinks -_-

Would you even be able to fit larger cams meant for the 26 without serious machining? I don't mean poncams, i mean something like 272's with like 10* or so lift.

christ, my 20DETT don't even have anywhere near that much lag

So you DID end up gaining something? I remember you saying in the top RB20 thread that you were on the "normal/standard" settings, well, found they were "best"

impeccable timing... lol Hey, they have potential, there is no doubt about that. Just that noone has seriously pushed the edge of the envelope with them, that is, untill i get some serious money happening

Well, in regards to JUST cam gears, i haven't heard great things about it on 20's. Infact i've heard that Roy tried it, and said he gained basically nothing. I think it was somewhere in the top RB20 thread. If you have the money, and want to see best gains, just go cams and cam gears, and go get the setup tuned.

lol i know, im just takin the piss too. Na sequential setup is a load of shit. This current setup has shown way too much potential on the dyno to ignore. Im running figures @ 13psi that would normally take 16-18psi to hit. And the lag isn't all that bad either. Sure, it is laggy compared to a stocker or something, but i like it, let's me control the power a bit more. Hence(with my current setup) my "activity" in this thread, as im contemplating the solid lifter conversion and 26 cams, then later on some 270+ and 9.5mm+ cams. That way i will already have the solid lifters done, so all i'd need to do is upgrade the rest of the valvetrain (i.e springs) and bob's my uncle.

some people want to be different and see what the ole 20 can do With that logic, why not just go a big block V8 and turbo/blow it? Run, say, 6psi, and say "well, there is virtually no lag, and it makes a bundle of power so ner " Mind you i have thought about a 30DETT, and may very well do it sometime. But if i do it now, i will still be returning to the 20/24DETT project later on to see what it can do. Anywho, this is an RB20 thread, please don't come in and bash 20's and try and convert the 20 lovers

not everyone wants to go down that path tho 20's aren't as bad as the 25 and 26, and 25/26/30 lovers make them out to be Just depends on your power target

Good luck getting a 26 head to fit on a 20. Not sure about the 25(26 head fitting on a 25 bottom end), but i'd assume it wouldn't be hassle free. Just use the 20/25 head, or if you really want to use a 26 head just use a complete 26 or go an RB26/30 But yea, if big power is your goal, then solid lifters are worth doing, as you will need to do them sooner or later when using a 20 or 25 engine, unless you don't want to run aggressive cams

Hydraulic lifters once again, same deal.

Just do a solid lifter conversion. Get machined shims. Spoke to SK about it, said the most time consuming part of it would be to make sure all the measurements are spot on: I'm considering doing it when i go for my rebuild, as later on i will want to run some very aggressive cams anyway, so either way solid lifters will need to be a go sooner or later. Or you could always get propper solid lifters from Tomei, i think nengun has them for like $650-700 delivered.