Jago

Well hey, i manage to drive my twin turbo RB20 around the street just fine. Im sure it'd be fine. Though i was thinking for a killer 24 setup, maybe using a forged and balanced aftermarket 26 crank, and forged/prepper rods etc. Just to try and get the most out of it. What ever im going to go ahead with, it will be spaced out over a few years, for affordabilaty's sake. Unless somene throws me a wad of money, or i come by a nice pay rise, or something . The full RB24 setup with slightly oversized valves, solid lifters, big cams, ported and polished head etc. Maybe with twin HKS GT28 series turbos. Or if you are feeling adventurous perhaps twin 3040's or 3240's? Seeing i already have the RB26 adaptor plates made up, can just pick up manifolds and turbos off the shelf. When you actually DO do it though, and you realized what you have achieved, i reckon it'd be worth it Then again, pulling a figure of like 6-700rwkw with an RB30 would be nice too (just as a "dyno queen", it won't guarantee fast times )

all depends on the setup of everything else IMO. Would be interesting to see though. I do understand what you mean about it being their car though. Would be nice to see an "all out" "extreme" RB24, showing what it can REALLY do. Funding anyone?

yet to see or hear of a single 24 here to crack 300rwkw. Even then it wouldn't be THAT fantastic considering the figures some standard displacement engines are putting out. I think 350rwkw should really be the benchmark for 24's

personally i see figures like 230, even 280rwkw as a joke for the RB24. When is someone going to crack the 300-350rwkw mark with an RB24? will it HAVE to be me? (if i eventually go through with it, and don't chose RB30DETT) I mean, christ, we've seen standard displacement RB20's hit figures like that.... Anyone wanna throw some money at me to build a propper mean RB24 the way it should be done?

guess i won't be able to drive within 100m of u then Wellp, car should be ready anyday now. Just fixing up the dodgy work of the initial build at a drift workshop *curses at drifting* (no i didn't send it there). GONNA BE CLOSE

No they're not

yup, import 31's were redtops. Cefiro's are silver tops. The red top came in two versions, NICS and later model ECCS.

Redtop cam profiling is a bit more aggressive than silvertop. Slightly more duration and lift i think(not sure if it's exhaust side only *shrugs*). The figures are somewhere here on the forums in a thread, just can't remember how old aaanyway. If you want a decent fix, give me your BOV flange, i'll butcher the shit out of it with a welder, and charge you an arm and a leg for it no need to worry about aluminium can bits if you are really that concerned. Seriously. Just go to an exhaust shop, tell them you want them removed, and sell the thing/things.

It's just this "howl" sound that kinda makes me a bit iffy/makes it a bit hard to hear. Mine is obscenely loud (well, almost), so maybe that'd make all the difference Anyway, i might actually seriously look into this, not for the sound, but for the "mild" performance gains (for the meantime, untill i get a serious engine build going). I dunno, but surely a sound like that can't be that healthy with such "minimalistic" cam profiles? When you look at the specs it's really nothing huge. Have you managed to check everything out yet? I mean, i was expecting a lumpy idle, just not one of a high lift and duration equipped drag car. Kinda sounds like it doesn't know if it wants to die or keep running. I dunno, still very hard to hear as it's not very clear.

Coke cans are alluminium. Alluminium is a piss poor conductor. And believe me, it's not THAT weak. Just very light. You WON'T have to worry about it melting, i can assure you of that. 40*C or 30*C intake temps or what ever won't even be enough to heat it propperly, let alone get it to the heat required to melt it. Anyway, you are talking about the inlet side of things, so it's not all THAT hot, if you want to call it hot at all. Exhaust side is the hot side, no BOV there Here's a thought. Why not just remove the BOV alltogether and sell it? Or do you want to just have it there for wank factor (by wank factor i mean, it's there, just not doing anything...)?

doesn't sound clear enough for me to decide whether it sounds good or completely shit

hehe, we had them lot come out to our joint. My olds were looking at it for my step brothers, installed on two computers. They wanted 6 grand. I choked on my food when my olds told me, and started making a mental list of all the car parts i could have bought with it. I heard it's a pretty damn good bit of software though. Except, i've left the whole sales area. Only good thing was being able to have a perve every now and then (used to work at kingsgrove sports), but customers can be pricks =/

dunno, depends if not, pm STRETCH and abuse him he has my engines

my spider senses are tingling. I feel the twin turbo Rb20 may very well be back on the road in time for the cruise Now with 33 GTR turbos O_o

heh, i was thinking twin HKS 28 series or something if i went through with my stroker motor twin turbo power -_- 197.7 rwkw @ 13psi on internally std RB20 (failing RB20 with a half shot turbo too), nuff said about twin turboing -_-

sorry to say it but you need an ECU upgrade even for a minor power increase. Reason being you'd need to change your Air/fuel ratios to suit, and the factory map wasn't really "designed" for that much power *shrugs* Correct me if im wrong

well. Im still umming and arring about it all. Sofar allot of the results i've seen have been VERY dissapointing. A car for sale at UAS with an RB24 is only making 287rwkw, i've heard of others making around this power. For the ammount of cost involved to do it, and only getting figures that small, well it makes me want to change my mind and go RB30DETT. But when watching DVD's etc, of cars down the 1/4 in Japan, some RB24 engined cars are running in the 10's Oh yea, and having seen the results the HPI demo car gave, well, that was laughable.

OR it means someone just put a mines sticker on it....

Any tiny bit of heat you can get rid of can help, the colder the better Either the foam or just a detachable/screw in section.

valve stem seals would normally be only on a cold start, from oil building up, correct me if im wrong. Only way to check if it was the exhaust side of the turbo would be to pull it off i think. As exhaust would be hot enough to burn up any traces of oil.

using RB25 items gives you an RB23, whereas RB26 crank and rods as well as the right sized pistons gives you an RB24

sorry to be a wet sock, but, that is still going to draw heat in from the headlight at night, is it not? Im in the process of trying to "think" up a completely "sealed" design, with only one air intake through the base to use the stock intercooler piping hole as a cold air intake point. Will be fabbing it up at work (work at a sheetmetal place ). Will be a bastard of a job i think =[

in my opinion i think custom manifolds are a main in the arse. Having the adaptor plates lets you bolt on any manifold suited to the RB26, so long as it fits . Except, you do have the extra cost of the RB20 AND RB26 exhaust manifold gaskets.

i wouldn't completely rule out the turbo dude. Like mention before, could be exhaust side seal that has gone. In my case, twas an intake seal, so much easier to spot.

meh, if you're worried about commie drivers giving you a hurry along just go to an auto electrician and get them to wire up a seperate switch/button for your brake lights, so if they are tailgating you just flick it and on come your brake lights . Or just drive purposefully and painfully slow Personally i'm not going to be getting the Bee*R rev limiter for fancy flames or popping noises, and you need to remove your cat to get the flames i believe (correct me if im wrong), but, having a microtech i don't really have a rev limiter, so i'd like one for safety's sake.