Jago

NICS(red top) cams have more lift on the exhaust side, silvertop inlet cam has slightly more duration. Injectors are in different position. Silvertop ECCS has a better flowing intake. The butterflies on the NICS redtop open at around 3800rpm, like i mentioned before, a power thing, so you don't want them stuffed up (get rid of them alltogether). I'm not too sure about the internals, you'd have to take them out and compare them side by side. I can try and dig up more info on the NICS butterfly system and ECU if you need it. NOTE: there are TWO versions of the red top RB20, a red top NICS and red top ECCS, so DO NOT confuse red top ECCS with silvertop ECCS. Differences between redtop NICS and ECCS are: ECCS redtop head aint as good flowing, has SLIGHTLY better turbo than NICS, slightly better ecu and inlet (still 12 port, still has butterflies i think)

SR20 and RB20 are like comparing apples and oranges. As for the T17's, would be a serious downgrade and will cut your power significantly. It's all about floooowwwwww

oh and yes i think the wiring is different. I can't recall about the internals, but i know for a fact that the head/bottom ends aren't interchangable with the two RB20's, different bolt pattern, i think.

Red top is the old NICS. 12 port intake, really piss fart breathless turbo and shocking ECU mapping. Also has butterfly plates in the intake to control/limit flow at certain points, something with more stable power delivery or somethin, can't remember that well off the top of my head. But yea, fix the ECU up, change the turbo, get rid of the butterfly plates and clean it up a little and the red top will be fine.

isn't ROM whiped when all current is lost though? That's what happens with computer ROM, to whipe it you take out the battery on the motherboard and put it back in again. I thought this might have the same effect? Anyway, thanks for the info, saves me a retune

hey all. My car has been dead for a few months now, and tonight was the first night i started it up in a while. SO, just wondering, does the microtech reset after a certain ammount of time of the car being dead or does it have an in built battery? If it does reset, does it revert back to a base map? And if so, what is the base map like? (something to worry about?)

by the way, it's WARATAH street, not wattle I wish i could come, but i'll be pickin up my engine that night for it to go in the next day. Hope it gets postponed, lol

RB20, well, it's dead at the moment. I suspect previous owner didn't really look after it, one of the turbos has a leaking seal, so was getting low on oil all the time. So, one day, i launch is, clutch fan goes into the radiator and at the same time i develop a nasty case if piston slap at 3000rpm and over. Im sourcing things for a cheap bottom end swap for a temporary fix, then i am planning a much more serious rebuild with the left over bottom end, have some contacts in japan so yea parts parts parts. It's a long term thing, going to be drawn out over a few years probably, most likely going to involve a solid lifter conversion to use high lift cams, stroking to RB24 using forged internals (including forged rods) etc. So just space it out over time. The eventual plan is to get a decent-ish setup, and try using twin HKS 28 series turbos on the RB24, or something similar, try to keep the twin turbo theme going I don't see why i couldn't use it seeing i've heard of people using a T88 on an RB24 over in Japan. Anyway, adaptor plates are the way to go, lets you use off the shelf turbo kits rather than custom manifolds all the time. I'm not sure if they are a mass produced item, best get them custom made anyway. So yea, speak to a mechanical engineer or your tuner or someone about it. Mind you, the twin turbo setup has potential, as i pretty much hit bang on 200rwkw on the SAU dyno day, stinking hot and humid day, internally standard RB20 on only 13psi boost, usingstandard R32 GTR turbos

some RH9 cars in japan were running twin 3037's go fiure

2835's could do it, depends allot on the "supporting" mods, internals, headwork etc. That's where smart tuning comes into play, e.g sealed cold air intake, ceramic coated intake pipes/wrapped in heat tape, insulated/heat taped exhaust manifolds, turbo shroud/heat shield, heat wrapped dumps etc. Just allot of basic things, either way it will give you a better result in the long run I might be doing a few more of these things soon, e.g getting a CAD designed cold air box and getting it made at work, seal it up and insulate it etc

erm, anyone thought of adaptor plates? Im using adaptor plates and standard RB26 manifolds, that way i don't have to screw around with custom made stuff, i can simply buy GTR turbo kits.

Hey all. Going to be doing some major work to my car soon, and the engine needs to come out. So basically wondering if anyone has an engine crane, jack, stands etc i could hire off them? Or "workshop" facilities i could hire out over a weekend or something?

No, but i've seen twin turbo RB20, i own one

Info on RB22 please...

if only i had the money now =/ GL with sale

Those figures would be at the flywheel mate. R31 coupes are roughly 1300kg standard FYI, R31's never came with a "silver top", but they did come with a red top ECCS RB20, which is what the silver top is(an ECCS), just a few minor differences. These are for the "newer" GTS-x's. The older ones came with red top NICS RB20. I've found them to be a great car, real head turners and the die hard enthusiasts love them . And the diff having been rebuilt (in this example) is a bonus, as they can be a bugger to get, sometimes (they are the R200 longnose diff, as opposed to the normal R200 in the 32 GTS-t etc. Same as the Z31 300zx, and DR30 (i think) ). Nice car, GL with the sale.

auto, manual?

what condition is the non-blown turbo in?

how much just for the turbos? (both of the R33 GTR turbos) I assume they'd bolt onto 32 GTR manifolds?

any more info on the bottom end? What type of pistons? Forged? Rods? Has the crank been balanced? Or is it bare essentials? etc etc

i too am a fan of the Bee-R wheels, but they are WAAAYYY to wide (at the front) for me, so unless they make different sizes, a copy or getting them fixed and narrowed would be the only option

*sigh* this topic keeps running in circles, i've just re-read all 7 pages of it. As previously mentioned, i think it would screw with air flow metered cars not to have a BOV. Also noticed that allot of the cars mentioned that didn't use a BOV would have had to have aftermarket ECU's (GAS-747 as an example, running 10's, can't be stock ECU), and other "TOP STREET DRAG cars". Anywho, i think allot of you actually need to go back, re-read it all, and have a think. The air flow meter is there for a reason. Air coming back out the other way will still register, it's not meant to measure it in a certain direction, it's just a damn wire thing. I think in the end of the day, it couldn't be the turbo to worry about, but engine management etc. Bleah, im exhausted, can't think propperly otherwise i'd write something more intelligent. I might come back later and add to it once i get a few hours of sleep

how much without the rims and just the stock 33 ones fitted?

interested in a swap? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126358

where are you located?