cowie165

I agree with Trust33. It sounds like the high-beam "flasher" switch is broken on the combination lever. If you unscrew the steering column covers you can see the two or three screws holding the lever assembly in. If you can't spot anything obvious, you can replace it cheaply as all R32s have the same lever assembly.

Nice reply Adam. Ben there's more info at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t35442.html

Deren you need some kids dude. That'd fix all these too-much-cash problems you've been having. Two is a good number to keep your bank balance nice and low. PS Dude I'm moving to Forest Lake at the end of the year. Is that anywhere near you? I still want to see your beast in the flesh.

Marcus it's the current that runs through the switch that's causing the problem. It melts the little plastic pots, hence no left headlight. The fix is to wire a relay in series with the switch. This will put the high current through the relay (which is purpose built to operate at a rated current, ie. 40A) and a low current through the switch. Doing this will also bump your voltage a little so the headlight output should brighten a little. Without doing something about the high current (it's because the car is 12V) you'll keep melting headlight switches. If only the little pots were ceramic...

Yes and yes. Tutorial to get your dash cluster out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115618 Haven't seen one for replacing the cable but there are lots of threads with references to doing the job. HTH

premo if you removed it (well more like disabled it) you could end up: Driving down the F3 in 5th gear, then reach for 4th to overtake someone, miss the gate and engage reverse by mistake... you can guess what happens next Good idea to think of it, but not a safe option.

Moved to For Sale section.

Sorry dude, you won't find one in this forum. It is against forum policy to host/link/sell/allow to be sold copyrighted material.

Hey great result dude.

Don't give it a second thought dude. It's all good

The problem goes away when the motor is cold, whereas a piping problem would stick around.

Cheers Peter. Crans what software are you using? I highly recommend Peter's ECUTalk. It is a kickass program that he provides for free. That said, if you try it and like it, you can beam over a donation via his website. /plug

Go Vijay. Facts rule.

For what it's worth, I used to have connectivity issues between ECU->laptop due to the order things ran. I had to start ECUTalk, connect consult cable, have ECUTalk search for COM connections - then it'd find it no problem. Damn, maybe it was the other way around. It has been too long. Anyway dude, if you haven't already, it might be worth a shot to change when you're connecting the cable. Mine would still light up but never detect the ECU. Mark

Heya Steve. I use CRC Anti-Squeal Paste. It's orange goo in a bottle with a nozzle like you'd see on a tube of silicone. I found it at Auto-One in the same place you find CRC Brakekleen, CRC Carbycleaner, etc. Just keep an eye out for a small orange bottle. Slap it everywhere you like But the best place is between the pad and the shim. It's super sticky and doesn't wash off clothing. It's about $10 or $15 I think. I guess it just stops any noise caused by the shim vibrating against the pad - ie. squealing. It made my (otherwise universally noisy) RB74 pads completely silent.

Good call. The original post missed out that the problem is only intermittent :sorcerer:

Mike you might want to eBay the Sauber Merc. They are hard to come by now and I've seen them sell for a LOT more than $20. Just trying to help a bloke out Mark

Hi dude. Please don't use caps. It is hard to read and implies that you're yelling. The 'squeeler plates' are called shims. You can buy Anti-Squeal Paste to help keep your brakes quiet. Works a treat. And to all fellow SAUers, the things that make your car slow down are 'brakes'. If a plate falls onto the kitchen floor, it 'breaks'. Mark

A busted gasket would explain the noise but not the change in performance. It'd drive the same but sound like a rally car.

Hi dude. The symptoms you've described are something major. I'm sure plugs/leads/battery/etc. are fine. Your fuel pump could be stuffing up, which could explain the 'boost cut' feeling but not the v8 noise. If you've blown an exhaust turbine you'd see those sypmtoms - the busted wheel would stop you from increasing compressor pressure, and would only get worse. You would only see smoke if you've busted a turbo oil seal and it was spitting oil out through the turbine and exhaust wheel. If the turbo is fine, you may well have busted a cylinder. A compression test will tell you more. That'd explain the v8 noise and rough performance. Once again, you'd feel a 'boost cut' because the compressor is compressing the air going into the cylinder, but as a ring set is probably stuffed, you aren't actually maintaining the pressure in the cylinder - the 'boost' is leaking out. The exhaust note will be different because the volume of exhaust air has changed. This isn't a DIY fix unfortunately. Dude I recommend having it towed to a workshop for inspection. Either way, sadly it isn't looking good. I don't know what the deal is with the HICAS light. Mate I hope you can report back what you find. Mark

Yep. There are four types: Poverty pack standard headlights (found on regular GTX/GTE/GTS/GTSt) Projectors with a ring around it (GTSt Type M/GTR) Projectors without a ring around it (GTSt Type M/GTR) N1 non-projectors (GTR N1) If you search for threads started by 'funkymonkey' with the word 'headlight', from about two years ago, you'll find all the R32 headlight info you'll ever give a stuff about

Spark + fuel + compression = running motor Just have to find the odd man out. If your battery static voltage is less than ~11V, it'll run the starter but the motor won't start.

lmao

Luke the problem is most likely the headlight switch. When you pull the combination lever (high beam lever) you're activating all the lights. When you push it I'm pretty sure it is a different circuit, and in R32/R33 the high-beams come on and the low-beams turn off. A few guys have done a mod so that when you hit HB you keep all lights on, but that's another topic. It sounds like the combination stalk is working, as high beam comes on. When you push it forward, it may be running through the same circuit as LB, but I'd be surprised. Short story: I'd look at replacing or repairing that switch dude. For a DIY solve, search for threads started by me with "headlight switch" in the title. Hope that helps. Mark

Just about any mechanic has a compression gauge. A while back I paid $100 for a compression test and leak down test, so it'll be cheaper than that. You can buy a compression gauge from eBay for around $60 and DIY too. You could do a spark plug change at the same time and save quite a few dollars.