Omurru

I have nexens on my GTR (came with when i bought it) and they are CRAP! Wouldn't recomend them to anybody.

Seen pics of a few rx7's in the states with ls1's apparantley they are getting very good results from them....

This guy does more supra and wrx pats but can get basically anything you want. A couple of my friends have bought stuff through him and have been very happy with the result. He is located in Melbourne too. http://www.rampant.net.au/

Thats awesome, what are the big round chrome things int he engine bay though???

clear coat resin is just a polyester resin isn't it? You just pour it over your part and let it run over it to cover it, leaves a even layer over the whole thing. I have done a similar thing just using 30minute epoxy and it worked very well, did need a bit of a sand with some wet and dry too smooth it out and bring up the shine though. As dan said, a properley sprayed on 2pac type clear coat does work much better than a can, as it uses a sorta similar process to the above one.

It's a sump plug it's not something you want to take chances with. Drill it to clean the hole up and tap it with a larger thread and put a bigger plug in to suit. Not much else you can do short of another sump....

I agree with the private sale as opposed to a dealer, alot of dealers sell fresh imports some of which can have various issues, where as if you are buying from a private seller especially an enthusiast there is generally less probability of things going wrong and all the 'little bugs' have been fixed. It also tends to be cheaper. My advice though decide what you want first car, colour, k's, mod's or stock etc. and then go look for it, don't buy the first car you see or settle for something your not sure on because there's nothing else at the time. Makes for much more happiness in the future. As to the power to weight thing, how old are you and how much longer you have left on your p's??? I'm not sure about the TAC/VicRoads insurances etc. but car insurance companies such as Just Cars will insure you to drive a high powered vehicle, but because you are still a new driver, you rating will be high so it ain't cheep and excess will also be high. From my experience's don't drive like an idiot and the police will leave you alone.....mostly......

Yeh I know thats the only gay thing about them, soft compound so they wear out quick, unlike the tyres on my commodore, I've had them puppies for over 100,000K's now and they still have heaps of tread good old Falken ZE-326's Yeh I know there baaaad, I still take it pretty easy driving the car as i ain't had it long, it is on my immediate list of things to do. Though I am used to driving cars that have so little traction they make my skyline feel like it is on tracks in comparison even with the crappy tyres hmmm reading that it makes me sound like I don't care about my cars, I am really quite anal when it comes to quality with them though, dam working in the aviation industruy and having the mindset of quality required for aircraft it gets expensive Also out of intrest where bouts you been getting quotes from for your prices, just so I have some direction when my time comes

I've got 17x10rims with 255/40's on it but they are an el-cheapo brand nexen or something similar (there what came with the car) and there like skating on ice but the actual ride quality with coil-overs isn't toooooo rough. The two cars i have been in though one with 35's and one with 30's can't remember width were like running on the rim, the car was bumpy as... If you can I would highly recomend RE55's, one of my friends had 235/45/R17's on the front of his n/a supra (something else on the back) and we had a hard time breaking traction.....awesome tyres very much worth the money.

Will give the AFM's a clean and a check, I know one of them is wired up pretty dodgely....Spark plugs were changed about 300k's ago there BKR7E's gapped to 0.7mm, coil packs are about 5000K old. Might be a good time to get that new pump and injectors and get a tune. It was tuned by Godzilla Motorsports just before I bough the car but am unsure of any details of the tune appart from what the dyno graph shows me....

yup....theoretically could you check the bov's of the car? ie. supply pressure to them and then cut it of somehow to see if they were holding??? I work at for Qantas so I should be able to rig something up to test them, just wanna know if it's a waste of time or not....as not really sure exactly how they work, never looked into it..... other than that might do some research on compressor stall....thanks for the help as well guys!

nah it is the other way round when at max (0.9) it's fine (i think i haven't really checked it when not accelerating) but when not accelerating and sitting at say 0.5 the problem occurs....

Woops forgot to answer this one, no idea on where they are from I don't even really know the specs of them, the turbos were done by the first aussie owner of the car who had it before the guy I bought it of had it. When I bought it I was told they are 'custom turbos capable of running 2bar and holding 1.5 all day and they have upgraded steel wheels'. I bought the car for the engine not for the turbos though...there the cheap part.

paulr33 - I though it may be compressor surge or flutter(dunno what that is, is it the same as comp surge ) just been waiting for someone to say it to see if it's a possiability. 700HP-GTR33 - Haven't done any work on any of the intake stuff since i had the car but then again it has also been doing it most of the time i have had the car so may be worth a look, is there anyway to check the bov's off the car to make sure they are working properley? Pump only makes funny noises when it's at high rpm/boost I know that thats the pump surging though cos it can't supply enough fuel to the engine, car despratley needs injectors, pump, fpr, and a new tune, it's the next thing I need to do on the car. Though could this same thing be causing this problem at low rev's injector duty is only about 30% ish when it does it? Yep thats exactly what it feels like..... Car has a Blitz Dual SBC and a Power FC. Thanks heaps for the help no doubt I will have a million more questions

Sit inside the car and get someone to hose it, look around for where the water is leaking in it should be pretty obvious, also before hand look for any deteriated seals or sealant to give you an idea also. Then when you find the source of the leak either reseal it or get a replacement seal. As to the smell, next sunny day leave it out in the sun with the doors/boot open to let it air/dry out. You can also get these things called closet camels from most supermarkets, there just a little container with some type of absorbent in them, there normally used for keeping wardrobes dry but chuck a couple of them in the back of your car and within a week or so they will be full of water Overall the best way I have found to het a musty damp smell out of a car is just to let it air out....using sprays and smelly things int he car just compounds the problem.

There high flowed stockers with steel wheels. Running about 0.9bar normally.

It has fairly new z32 AFM's, It's fine at idle and general driving, it's just at long periods at say 4000rpm and 50% boost. It sounds like the bov's suddnley starts opening and closing.....

I'd be going with the 275/40's the problem with going anything below 40's is the handling starts to go because there is so little flex in the sidewall of the tyre. And even the smallest of bumps in the roads is magnified 40billion times, the width of the wheel has little to do with how rough it will be it is more the height of the sidewall. A friend of mine used to do contract work at bridgestone on their industrial networking stuff, apparentley say a 275/40 tyres costs no more to make than a 195/60, it's the fact that the market for them is so small and they sell so few of them they cost the earth.....

I have noticed this a bit it the past with my car but it became more of an apparent problem today going up a long steep hill. When at full boost or accelerating I have no probs, but when sitting at a constant speed on boost (not full obviously) say going up a hill the boost level will start bouncing up and down and you hear a bov type noise (I presume it's the bov's opening a closing), it's almost like the controller or the bov's won't hold low amounts of boost for a long time. Anybody experienced this problem before or have any ideas what it could be due to? Sorry about the poor explination, I can't think of a better way to explain it

Isn't the average effective life of any cat converter only about 5 years......

I looked into this pretty extensivley when I was buying my car. I had a list of the exact build dates of the different series of R33 GTR's and the differences but i lost it when my comp crashed the other week There were minimal difference's between the models and majority of them were only cosmetic differences which wern't worth the extra money IMO. S3 33GTR's had the projector headlights which are sexy as but can be bought new from nissan for about 2g's if you really want them, had a slightly different shaped lower lip on the front and had a different steering wheel and a passenger airbag as standard. For me personally it came down to the option of a v-spec or a standard GTR as opposed to what series......

Stock, in good condition and well maintained and you will have minimal problems, it's only generally when people start moifying cars that so many problems occur. The pervious owner of my carbuilt it to be a daily driven and reliable high powered car but it wasn't cheap...unlike with V8's there are alot more cheaper external modifications you can do to a skyline for more power, it's often these type of mods that people run into problems with. well in my experience anyway....

The Veyron isn't legal on australian roads, Yes, How stable do you think anything is at 400km/h 10cm off the ground, no neither can the veyron, driving anything with 1000hp+ isn't easy regardless of it's handling the veyron is no exception, Give me a 1/2 of the price of a veyron and I will build you a skyline based car that will out do one in every aspect, give me the factory, the team and the design and build cost and I will do a production version. I'm not saying the veyron is a bad car, it's an awesome machine by all aspects, people just seem to get too happy over it and treat it as some godly thing that it's not. you know they are one of the only production cars that will not recoupe buildcosts in sales......if you ask me the car was nothing more than a marketing ploy to get bugatti back into the automotive market, so they were able to say we have the fastest production car...which was short lived anyway....

If it's the actual pulley wobbling and not the entire pump i would say the shaft bearings are worn. This causes excessive stress on the pump and will cause it to wear even faster, the bearings will eventually break and either jam or just fall appart, either result is bad though.....

Looks like a simple spanner job too me.....