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Sack87

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Everything posted by Sack87

  1. No idea haha, most probably not but it cost me nothing to make. The more the better theoretically. I wanted to make up one that picks up several points but theres just no room under the car.
  2. Final brace made up and fitted. Acts like a floor bar tieing the ends of the frame rails together half way down the chassis.
  3. I have 3 sets of these left and I won't be making any more after these are gone.
  4. So here are the wire colours corresponding to the pin. I've tested them all and done the "pop test" for the speakers. 1 - White 2 - Green 3 - Red with blue stripe (this is a positive wire so don't ground it) 4 - Lime 5 - Black 6 - Red 7 - Green with white stripe 8 - Yellow large gauge 10 - Grey 12 - Blue 13 - Grey 14 - Yellow 15 - Orange 16 - Pink
  5. THREAD REVIVAL I translated the Japanese wiring chart so hopefully it's of use to some people. I think this is the only one we need to hook up aftermarket stereos. I originally translated the other wiring chart with Navi unit plug (on page 1), but when I wired it in I had no sound at all even though I had that setup. When I get back home today I'll add in the wire colours when I hook mine up.
  6. And you know everything I assume, including how to hack and tune a factory Ecu? Firstly I'm running a Billet Intense RS Turbo and secondly it's safe on 19psi as my AFR doesn't go above. 93v at WOT. And it's "you're" by the way.
  7. Picked these up for a steal from an R34 GTT wreck and painted them up. So much better than the shit that was on it. They just fit behind the 19s
  8. Replaced cam cover seals, spark plug tube seals, new PCV and painted intake and intake manifold wrinkle black.
  9. Since I have got one of each left, I'm selling a full set of these ready to go to stiffen up the big wagon. They are primed ready for whatever colour you choose to paint them. 1x 20MM front bar. (straight bolt in) 1x front rear subframe brace (straight bolt in with hardware) 1x rear rear subframe brace (straight bolt in ONLY WITH AFTERMARKET EXHAUST) These actually make a big difference in steering response and general tighter feeling of the car. $275 posted anywhere in Australia. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  10. Made up a bunch of brackets to mount the trans cooler I've had sitting here for a few months.
  11. Just the length of the bar itself and how far in you did the bends Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Bends are 130mm from the ends and total bar length is 690. Just make sure you slot the holes in the mounting plates otherwise it's a PITA to get on.
  12. You can buy an aluminium BOV planking cap or I just used a red plastic cap that was a super tight fit and clamped it inside the tube.
  13. The plastic under body engine guard was looking pretty poor so I decided to make a new one up out some ali sheet. I made up a template and cut out a simplified version of the factory one. But what do you do when you don't have a sheet metal bender?... You make your own one; and it works f**king mint It's a heavy duty sucker that will do up to 3mm sheet and stores away nicely with removable handles. I still need to add some vertical supports to the angle that bolts down on the sheet and drill some holes to mount it to the bench instead of using clamps. So with that side project made, I bent up the sheet and you end up with a nice shiny undertray. I'm also working on something else too as you can see but it's still in the "refinement" stage.
  14. I'll weigh one up tomorrow at work and find out for you mate.
  15. Two for sale which are made from 22MM O. D. bar with 3MM wall thickness, so are very solid. These will help stiffen up the front of the rear subframe to reduce flex. (full bar set also available for purchase) Straight bolt in item which will come supplied with hardware. $100 each shipped Australia wide. Pm me or contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  16. Still one left for sale but will only fit with an aftermarket exhaust as pictured. I have also fabbed up the brace for the front of the subframe which bolts straight in, will include the hardware needed and will be sanded and primed. There are two up for sale for $125 each shipped.
  17. Finished off fitting the FMIC and wrapped the 3" throttle piping in heat reflective tape. Next on the list is to make up a few little brackets to relocate the sensor and solenoid and clean up the hosing.
  18. Made up the rear subframe front brace to finish off the trio. I'll make a few more up as usual and will look into gearbox bracing next. Also got around to fabbing up the 3" IC piping that goes to the throttle body so it's full 3" from the FMIC. Just need to finish tidying up around where I silver soldered the nipples in and the BOV flange needs facing.
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