Danowner

Cheers heaps GTS boy, i did actually experience misfiring about a week or 2, took out 1 of the coils looked fine (was late and had to get somewhere), so I just put it all back together after checking 1. I was driving to 80km/hr and was in 2nd at about 5k RPM, car made what I can describe as a 2step firing noise, then kept going. That happened twice but under the same circumstances, never had a problem since. I checked the consult port for errors, and got code 55 which is 'no malfunction', so that's all clear. Just bought some throttle body cleaner, will get to all the air control valves when I get home. Really appreciate the help, and will keep this thread updated just in case anyone else has the same problem

Most likely one of the thousands of posts about idle problems with an RB engine. So, my r34 has been running like a dream. I've owned it for about 4 months, and never had a single problem. Put in a boost controller myself about 2 months ago, never had a problem. In the last week, my car has decided to drop to 500RPM when warm, and at a complete stop, and in the last day, it's done the same thing, but the idle was very rough and a bit up and down. Here's a video of my car idling, ignore the engine as for some reason on camera it comes out to be extremely loud, but IRL is a lot quieter for some reason. I just wanted you to focus on the exhaust pattern, as that's what I'm referring to when I say rough idle. This morning when I cold started it, it did the rough idle thing, dropped to 500RPM, and went rough, rough rough and then stalled for the first time ever, started it up 2 seconds later and was all good, started fine no worries. I took of the cam cover to check the timing belt, but it looks like it's in very good condition. No tears or anything. Here's the video: R34 idle Problems I'm in need of some feedback if possible, just some recommendations on what I should look to fix, maybe if someone has experience the same problem I'm having. Cheers heaps guys!

Ah ok. Sounds a bit risky, will just get it towed.

Ah righto. Well that is interesting. Also FYI everyone, my turbo and plenum arrived today, so tomorrow I start the long, hard process of installing my fmic, ECU, fuel pump, injectors, turbo manifold, dump pipe, plenum and turbo. Will be a lot of fun re- doing the piping for the plenum I hear. Also, I was wondering.. My ECU that I bought had a tune with 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, fmic and bigger turbo. Would it be safe for me to drive the car maybe to a tune place as the mods I just listed are literally what will be in my setup. Or will the engine go bang? I understand the cylinder compression will 100% be different, but will that alone be enough for my car to go bang if I'm driving like a grandma to the tune shop which is about 10km away if that?? Cheers

Hey @Dose Pipe Sutututu do you actually know what makes the motor go 'bang' after a while? Is it lack of servicing? Lack of checking tension on belts? What actually makes the motor die after a while, and not straight after installing the mods? In your case, what specifically was the sole reason to your motor dying? pistons or something? Because I'm willing to check the main components, timing belt, oil, coolant, hoses, leaks every week to ensure nothing goes wrong. What was it in your case? And even other people's experiences too?

Cheers for the help everyone! I decided to go with the Hypergear ATR45 with ball bearing and 3" dump pipe. Should hopefully achieve close to 450HP at the wheels in a few weeks! Now I've got to organise a new exhaust, book in a tune, and book in an inspection to get it all engineer approved.

My budget would be about 2.5k at this current time. That HG turbo looks amazing, but the only thing that throws me off is the internal gate + minimum boost of 20PSI. This car is my daily, I want to be able to alter my boost controller, and run a chillaxed 10-12PSI for everyday cruising, and be able to up it to 20- 25ish PSI if I want to. I've heard that the whole twin scroll setups are good, although they offer high boost at low RPM, and then low boost at high RPM. I'm after something in the middle. Also, if anyone is able to help me with a very stupid question that I have no idea what the answer is: What do I need to know about the turbine housing fitting size? The whole 0.6 A/R and 1.0 A/R values. What does that mean? And with my engine, what sizing would I need?

So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified. For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!

What about, a T3 to T4 adapter flange? In my head out kinda doesn't make sense because it's still going to be restricting airflow that tiny bit, only a few mill difference between T3 and T4, however, the bigger better turbos can go on it, so the end result would be better if I just used the adaptor right?

So my entire build is out the window and is total dog shit because I have a T3 instead of a T4, that shitty T3 isn't going to get me any horsepower at all hey

Just trying to find some suggestions as to what Turbo I should upgrade to? Already done all supporting mods so no worries there, just need some input for the turbo. It will be going on my top mount 6 boost turbo manifold, price wise I'd like to keep it under 4k, and I've got a boost controller already hooked up, wanting a strong boost, and hopefully boosting to around 19PSI, wanting to get some serious horsepower out of my RB25DET NEO

Just wondering why you'd request I return the manifold if I've got a top of the end manifold for the T3 fitting, which if you research, 99.999% of manifolds available are all T3, so there's something working right with that size turbo fitting and the Rb25 engine. I knew there would be someone with sarcastic response tell me to do something completely opposite to what I've requested. I asked what turbo I should use, not what turbo I should use if I had a totally different turbo fitting, which is impossible to find anyway. And for my turbo lag question, It was for show, and the occasional launch on the drag strip from a standstill. I've seen a few r33's and r34's parked up at car meets revving, then a few seconds of silence, and their revving turns into popping, and spitting flames at redline, instead of just the normal redline effect.

Okay, so I've got my dream car, until I can afford myself a R35 haha. I love my 34, it's a manual 98 model. So far, engine wise, I've added a GFB 6 Preset Electronic Boost Controller. On the way, which will arrive in the next week and be in by the 28th, is a 6 boost Exhaust Manifold, 1000cc Injectors, Nistune ECU, Madcat intake manifold, fuel rail and 90mm throttle body, Walbro 460 Fuel Pump and my big 900mm Front mount intercooler. I'm planning on getting this all in within a few days of flying back home from work. I know what I'm doing adding all this stuff, it's really not hard, just a bit fiddly. I've got a few questions though.. So obviously the upgrades listed are quite substantial, and will allow me to handle quite a bit more horsepower, but I'm wondering what Turbo to upgrade to? Or even better, whats an easy way to know what turbo I can fit? As most of you would know, my manifold turbo mount supports a T3 fitting. I'm wanting at least 350HP at the wheels, but if it's possible with these specs, I'd love 400HP at the wheels. I understand the turbo plays a bit part of this, hence why I need some advice. And yes, I am aware a tune would be needed to support the rest of the mods. My second question is related to Anti Lag. So my Nistune ECU I'm getting is plug and play, and I've heard that when it comes to anti-lag, you can have it wired to a switch. Firstly, is this possible with a Nistune ECU? And if someone could explain how it actually works? As I'm genuinely curious how a little 12v active cable being cut on and off can enable something that's programmed inside the ECU? Unless there's more to it.. cheers everyone!

Ended up picking on up on Saturday locally. Pretty damn stock to say it's a 20 year old car. Just double checked the Japanese model number under the bonnet, and yep I picked up a genuine GTT. The seller did go through that with me on purchase though, I just had no idea that you could check that. Very very happy with the R34, such a nice car to drive, and that turbo spool gets me every time.

Damn, just got my R34 GTT and I'm going back to work tomorrow

Hey everyone, first off this is my first post on this forum. I don't know a whole heap about cars as of yet. I've always serviced and worked on my own old, and breaking down honda CRV, but it's time to move to a proper JDM performance car. I've got the money right now to purchase an R34 GTT, although all R34's for sale are all R34 GT's with swaps left right and center. Well, I think they are. Correct me if I'm wrong, but an R34 GTT (4 door or coupe) will always have the 3 gauges above the center console right? So thats the first dead giveaway to tell if it's genuine GTT material. And second, something I noticed, is that the rear end is more boxy rather than round with the reverse lights under the park lights. Anyway, I'm looking to purchase a GTT in Perth. What's the best option? Import or wait for a sale locally?