ossy

I had a turbo conversion done a while back on my R33 RB25DE and runs perfect but I've got blue smoking issues and believe my turbo seals have gone. I've got braided lines and suspect the restrictor banjo bolt for the oil feed is wrong. I've now brought a rb25 hybrid turbo in good condition to replace mine but unsure what sized restrictor and bolts to use. What size is the oil feed restrictor for the original turbo? Also what sized restrictor would I need to use for the new hybrid turbo? And am I correct in saying the coolant feeds and oil drain are unrestricted? Thanks.

It was done by a reputable workshop who are well known and I've used many times. They're work has been spot on but I just feel like one of their mechanics may have overlooked something and don't want them to think I'm putting them down by saying they're wrong, etc. I thought it would be turbo seals or the oil lines as engine was perfectly fine before the conversion but they reckon it may be stem seals. The problem is though, they're not sure... and they're saying turbo is fine as it had no play when they put it on but that doesn't mean seals are fine. The turbo they sourced was likely taken off one of their skylines for breaking so doubt they've seen it running before and can't be sure either.

It's using a standard DET ECU and parts.

Originally I was told about the boost creep and was told it just needs a remap but it's not a major concern, even though I thought that is wastegate/actuator related? Also I didn't realise it was smoking until I was closer to home as it was abit of a drive back on motorway. The breaking up and boosting issues started a few days later. I rang them on the day about the smoking and was told the first turbo they put on during the conversion was knackered so they replaced it with another second hand standard turbo and the oil has likely gotten into the exhaust and just needs to burn off. Still smoking a few weeks later and saw oil level was dropping. Also to add, it only starts smoking once the car has fully warmed up. The car has been back to the guys who carried out the conversion and they think it might be valve stem seals but aren't sure. Apparently the turbo seems fine, even though I thought that would be the cause, and the compression is also fine also but cylinder 6 sparkplug seems abit fouled.

Hi, I had a turbo conversion carried out on my R33. It generally runs good but got a couple of problems. It's using standard DET parts, except for Walbro fuel pump, FMIC, 3" downpipe, decat, 4" catback and cone filter. Since the conversion, it's burning oil and there's loads of blue exhaust smoke on the overrun or when I come to a stop at the lights that goes everywhere and very embarrassing. No smoke whilst driving. Also after the first few days, it seems to be misfiring and hesitating when on boost as power keeps cutting every second or so. If I ease up on the throttle abit, then it keeps accelerates fine. Guessing this is likely to be failing coilpacks? The third problem I've got is that every now and then when on boost, it sounds abit like I've got an external wastegate/screamer pipe. When this happens, it seems to drive better on boost and not hesitate as much. The guys that carried out the conversion mentioned that I have some boost creep but not sure if that's related to this. Thanks.

Thanks guys, I'll give the lightweight ago. If I still have problems, then I may give the heavy one a try but will keep my eye out for a gtst box. It's not going to be trashed or anything so should last a while. GTSBoy, you sold me on the lightweight with that lmao

Well that sounds like mine so I'll try out the lightweight instead of the normal stuff. Is the heavyweight not recommended then?

Hi, Which gearbox oil would be recommended for me to use, Redline shockproof lightweight or heavyweight? It's for a R33 RB25DE that will be getting turbo conversion soon. Planning on using this gearbox, so want to make it last unless I can find a GTST one for a decent price. Doubt the oil has ever been changed lol. I'm able to shift fine when changing gears slowly but if I change quickly, it'll usually crunches 1st to 2nd and 4th to 5th. Would this be classed as slightly bad or really really bad? It doesn't pop out of gears or anything as other posts and threads say. Also I've noticed alot of these gearbox oil threads threads are a couple of years old now. Has anything changed since and is a better oil available or is Redline still the best to go for? Thanks.

My NA R33 used to have most of the same issues you listed and was waaay slower than it should be but I had a couple of faults all together causing this. Weirdly it didnt show an engine management light or any codes though. Possibly some things for you to look at... First of all I did a compression test for the peace of mind and so I'm not wasting money, which was all good. The AFM was faulty (wires were corroded) so replaced with another one and fuel pump was also buggered, which was leaking inside the tank so I upgraded to a 255 walbro. The TPS and IACV needed cleaning and adjusting. Also the timing was out (originally thought it was the CAS also) and was all over the place when plugged in... The timing belt itself and tensioners were in a bad state so had a timing belt kit done. Runs spot on now, no problems at all and has all the lost power back.

Awesome, thanks. Simpler than expected to be honest. Thought there were 2 wires that needed swapping around also but possibly getting confused with something else.

Hi, I've got an R33 RB25DE (spec 2 engine) and will be carrying out a RB25DE+T conversion. Will be using most of the stock turbo GTST parts and ecu on it, no crazy power expectations. What needs modifying on the stock NA loom to suit a RB25DET conversion? Unable to find a good DET loom for sale in UK and tried searching but can't find any proper answers on this, not even an ECU pinout diagram for a RB25DE. I've got most of the stock gtst parts already so might aswell make use of them and already has gtst brakes, clutch and uprated walbro pump fitted.

I Haha sorry but still confused lol. That thread is about changing gearboxes and the needed parts but nothing about fly wheels, etc. I'm keeping my gearbox, just wanting to upgrade/change my clutch as its slipping. @Blakeo Arent they the same sizes? Was unsure about the number of teeth and bolt pattern. I've read other posts on here saying RB20Dets and Rb25dets both have 240mm flywheels. so I thought a 3piece Rb25det clutch should fit in that case.

Hi, I've got an R33 rb25de manual and need a new clutch. Will an RB25det clutch be a direct fit or will I need the det flywheel as well? I know this has been asked a couple of times but they are old threads and couldnt find a definite answer on them. Some posts say yes but some say no so confused lol.

? Reallly?!? ...well where exactly? Lol. Had the main dash and steering surround off the other day and couldn't see any screws/clips at all to remove the lower trim. Can only see one screw that can be seen in the pictures above, just below the left side of the speedo but that doesn't seem to loosen it at all.

I need to do the same with mine. How do you remove the lower dash trim under the steering wheel that covers all the area underneath?

Timing is possibly out? I've got a R33 that was doing the exact same thing and I couldn't figure it out for a looong time. Some times power was great and other times it drove like crap. Took it too some Skyline specialists and turns timing was out badly and the fuel pump was leaking back into the fuel tank so wasn't getting enough fuel either. Mine had a new timing belt done by the previous owner as well but didn't do it properly

Fronts are definatly 280mm and rears are 265mm. These are available from UK from several sites, even Ebay, but imagine shipping will be stupidly expensive but maybe worth a try getting some quotes. Also not sure but NA R34's may use the same sized disks. If so, you could maybe get them and have them redrilled to fit a 4stud bolt pattern?

Out of curiosity, what are good figures for a compression test?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding but that's still not right either? Does like nice though. The real lip looks like this. On most reps, that center bit where I've drawn the red line on the first pic either goes in abit or is missing the center two vents entirely. The picture above is what the real thing looks like. The 400R bumpers also use same front indicators as a GTR.

Yeah, these should be good and that front bumper looks alright to be honest. The bottom lip is still a bit different to the real thing though. Just needs the center section fiberglassing/building up so it's flush with the rest to look like the real thing but if you like it, all's good.

You'll need 400R style reps of the rear bumper, skirts and arches which are easily available for GTSTs but the front bumper will be the tricky bit. You'll also need a GTR spoiler which is not exactly the same but close enough. The replica front bumpers that most people get have a different bottom lip and look kinda ugly if you ask me. The center section is raised up and is missing the center vents. There are reps that look like the real thing but very rare to come by, expensive and usually for a GTR. To fit one of them, you'll need GTR front wings and headlight spacers. Aftermarket wider wings will work but you'll lose some of the 400R look obviously. Other option I can think of is you buy a 400R lip, and mould it on the GTST rep, which may need cutting and shortening slightly.

Nope, that's the first thing I checked and thought of as well lol. Also unsure if related but for a while now, my indicators are hyperflashing but work fine when using hazards.

I'll try getting a multimeter as I dont have one but not sure how to do it and what I need to look for to be honest. I've managed to get the lights looking alot more even and not ridicilous looking anymore so that's good. The driver side looked like as if the brake lights were on before. I cleaned inside of the passenger tail light lenses as much as I could and replaced the loom with the new one I got from the driver side and they both helped greatly. I've also checked the plug connectors, bulbs, bulb holders, looms and the ground near the boot latch and all look fine. Confused what else it could be effecting the brightness.

Hi, I recently replaced the driver side tail light on my R33 as it was damaged/leaky... still leaking somewhat annoyingly. Anyway, checked to see if all the bulbs work before fitting trims and noticed both driver side rings are much much brighter than the passenger side. I've tried using my old tail light loom and bulbs as well but still the same. Any ideas why this has happened or how I can sort it? Thanks.

Didn't time it of course but would say it was definitely faster than usual as my NA R33 has always had performance issues where it feels like it goes into limp mode at times but acceleration from low RPM was always sluggish. It bogs down a lot, as if something is limiting the power but this made it pick up revs and speed so easily... There is the fact that maybe more air helped fix whatever performance issues I have that's effecting my power lol. Since you mentioned it though, oddly the sound didn't change at all? Shouldn't it make this weird turbo/supercharger like spool sound with the air box removed or throatier atleast? Or is that sound only happen with the intake resonator removed?