ossy

Tbh on a NA skyline, wouldn't a pod filter make a decent difference, especially if using a heatshield and cold air ducting? I've got a NA R33 and gave it a quick run yesterday without the airbox lid and then with filter removed as well and it made quite a big power difference. Was much more responsive and acceleration uphill was waay better. Put it back together and fitted my GTST snorkel but didnt seem to do anything noticable in comparison to the smaller NA snorkel but would imagine there would be slightly better and cooler airflow. Might be worth trying it after all.

Bumping an old thread. So.... Anyone know what bumper this is?

Thanks, will go for the Walbro. Heard same from few others also. Don't really trust the Kemso, seems waaay too cheap at only half the price.

Hi, I've got a R33 RB25de that has some running issues and believe the fuel pump is buggered. I believe the NA pumps are same as GTST's but can't find any online, except uprated ones like 255lph Walbro or 340lph Kemso. I was going to buy one of these but was told they may make the car run lean and that the stock fuel regulator might not be able to handle the increased pressure. Any recommendations/ideas if either the Walbro or Kemso pumps will work without causing any problems? Thanks.

I think it may need to be fitted on top of those boot/trunk infill spoilers that people fit when removing the GTR spoiler which levels the rear out and this would then sit on top of that.

Hi, Will swapping an R33 spec2 airbag steering wheel and HICAS clockspring for a spec1 non airbag steering wheel and non HICAS clockspring going to cause any problems? Also is it a direct swap, ect? Regarding the HICAS, some say to remove the small plug off the HICAS ECU to remove the light but will this disable/disconnect it also? Want to know if this is an alternative method of disabling HICAS instead of fitting a lockout bar. Also, which colour wire is it for the foglight indicator stalk switch? Thanks.

It's always bugged me aswell but I'm sure it's normal. My purple R33 has it and so does my brothers. I've also seen several others at car meets as well. I tried to get a close up of the same angle if it helps.

Pretty sure that's normal, it's the side camera angle and the white paint making it look weird I think. My R33 has the same sort of gap aswell if I look at it from a similer angle. Mines purple with a black boot so not as noticable.

Seen some pics of R33 GTR/GTST bumpers that look like they have R34 splitters on them. The nismo ones I think... So yeah, can the R34 splitter fit an R33? I wanted a front splitter but not fond of the usual rectangular looking universal ones and quite like the shape of the R34 ones. Heres one of the pics;

So anyone knkw if the readings are right or not? And why the timing is all over the place?

There's no ECU faults, that's why I took and posted the video so you guys can see the readings... Better than posting a 20minute long data log file lol. I don't understand what most of the readings mean or what values they should be reading, especially the timing as it's all over the place.

Anyone??

Hi, So I used ECU Talk and managed to get some readings but not sure what they mean. Can anyone help me out? Also I noticed that the timing is all over the place which doesn't seem normal to me. What can be the cause of that? On cold start, it's around 20 and drops to 15 as it warms up. Then whilst driving it's bouncing up and down randomly reaching 49 at one point and even -8. I've recorded a 3 minutes long showing this and other readings on a short steady drive which I'll post here below and also have the full ECU Talk log file if needed for more info which shows the readings at cold start, warming up and driving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt92Wes7hmY Thanks.

I've already taken it several times and had it looked over by some mechanics but unfortunately they don't know. They're kinda useless around here if I'm honest and keep saying crap like the car is too loud so they can't tell what's wrong which is just stupid. They also ended up cutting one of the fuel lines in engine bay and had fuel spraying everywhere which I had to replace at home when I noticed fuel gauge dropping quickly after a short drive so you can see how useless they are... And the Jap/Skyline specialist places are all veerry far from me. There's no engine management light showing but I've now brought a Consult scan tool anyway so I'll give that a shot and report back. Just waiting till it arrives now... Also am I right reading that the scan tool won't read HICAS faults? If so, how do I go about doing that? And about the HICAS, it has a spec 2 steering wheel but body is spec 1. It's a 1995, so assuming spec 1.5 as some would call it? Also I did service it before trying new battery and AFM. That was changing oil, sparkplugs (was told I need BCPR6ES), filters, fluids and fitted stock airbox which helped only for a day before it lost power again the next morning. Engine sounds super smooth and healthy, no misfires so dont think it's sparkplugs or coilpacks.

Hi, I'm still trying to get fix the problems and regain the lost power on my NA 2.5 R33 which is stupidly slow as if in limp mode or something... Yes its a non turbo, it's slow, its already been said but this is even worse lol. Anyway it was parked up for a few years. It drives smooth and goes through the rev range fine but the revs just seem slow to climb sometimes and is massivly underpowered. Engine sounds smooth and healthy as well. I previously gave it a full service and replaced its broken cone filter with the stock airbox and funnel. It helped for abit but lost loads of power again. I've now fitted a new larger battery and new AFM aswell which has improved it massively but it's still not there and good as it should be. It has better uphill pull throughout and the power in 1st and 2nd gear feel decent-ish again when foot down but starts to go sluggish again after that... Its feels like driving a Honda VTEC at times lol. I put foot down, theres a slow laggy build up and then the sound changes and it takes off. It's also weird, it randomly gets its power back at times and then loses it again. I don't understand what's wrong with it. Any other ideas what it could be? Some other issues aswell. It has a cold start issue and requires a few attempts and some revs to get it started. Also, the revs start to bounce up and down when I start driving when it's cold and come to a stop at red lights. Have to give it a quick rev otherwise it'll get worse and cut out. I suspect the AAC valve for the cold start up problem which I haven't gotten round to yet but can this cause the revs to bounce up and down aswell? Then there's the HICAS light which comes on everytime after 15minutes or so of driving and stays on until I switch car off. Steering seems fine so not sure if its causing any problems or not.

Hi, does anyone know what this rear bumper is or help me find out? Thanks. Sorry if this is in wrong section, wasn't sure.

Tbh wouldn't this increase grip, stability and somewhat reduce oversteer? Its quite the usual on MR2s, especially the later ones and mines like this also. I've had two MR2s and my current one has this setup and is way more stable and less snappy than the first.

I believe theyre pretty much the same as your usual GTS/T but with the added 4WD system which is different to a GTR and as we're talking about the R34, should come without HICAS unlike other Skylines. I've heard mixed things about the suspension aswell much like you said. I think the front is GTR but GTST can fit also somehow and rear is GTST aswell. Not sure about LSDs and gearbox is different. Ratios are different for better acceleration being for non turbo and also weaker apparently but guessing internals are still similar to GTSTs so should still be pretty solid.

Just curious, are R33 and R34 GTS brake disks the same? Dimensions seem to be the same If they are, are the calipers the same also or do R34s come with bigger ones?

Hi, So my R33 has been running like crap and in stuck in a weird limp mode sort of thing for last few months. I made a post a while back but cant find it... It revs all the way till 7k but its like its being held back. Theres not much power and revs climb slower than they should. Anyway it was suggested I try a new afm as mine looked broken and was all taped up. Was told I need a green one as mine's a spec 1. Managed to find one and went to fit it today but the plug/connector is a different and I noticed under the tape on mine, its a pink label. Confused as I thought pinks were for spec 2 R33s?? Also I had a new bigger battery fitted to replace the dodgy tiny stock one and thats brought alot of power and torque back but still not good as it should be. Still abit rough starting up sometimes and power keeps dropping sometimes like limp mode again. Also not sure if related but since I got the car, the hicas light has been coming on instantly but since the new battery its taking ages before it comes on. Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks

You've heard it a million times and annoying as it is, doing a turbo engine swap or whatever would be the best way to go. Turboing a RB20 won't make crazy power unfortunatly or be close to your expectations. If you're planning on keeping your R33 for a longtime, going for a RB25DET would be best in terms of cost, power, time, etc. If you're really set on turboing your RB20, then from the top of my head you'll be needing the following bits and probably more... Also keep in mind you probably won't be able to push anything more than 7psi of boost safely on stock internals and you'll need to upgrade your brakes and stuff aswell. Use factory or replacement turbo parts is up to you...-RB20DET/RB25DET turbo or something else-Intercooler-Uprated fuel pump-Bigger injectors-Chipped RB20DE ECU, RB20DET or something else -Manifold-Turbo downpipe, exhaust, etc-Oil & water lines

Tbh I was told this is a normal and that stock brakes are crappy??? As you said, there's no feel at the start and all of a sudden everything happens in last bit. Mines a non turbo with 5 stud conversion also. A few people recommended getting a brake stopper which I'm considering trying and plus they're quite cheap. It fits in the engine bay and say it stops the flex in the firewall when braking. Makes the brakes feel stronger (more bite) and has better feel in pedal.

All he asked was for some exhaust advice lol... You'd be best going for 2 and 1/4 inch piping with a decat, have a middle box and backbox to keep the drone down. It'll keep the low end power this way and maybe improve it slightly. Going any bigger and you'll start to lose power. Also not a fan of cold air filters but maybe something to look into. A few years back my bro had a RB20e R33 aswell before doing a full turbo conversion. He had the above custom exhaust too and we found the stock airbox was very restrictive aswell. Maybe a turbo airbox funnel + panel filter.

There's different types of carbon fiber... It's known as wet carbon fiber if it's glossy and dry carbon fiber if it's matte/dull. The shine is resin as mentioned but it's applied differently for different properties and physical appearances. Shiny carbon fiber is much cheaper. It's easier and much cheaper to make as it doesn't need to be baked within the weaves. This makes it weaker than dry carbon and heavier but gives it a nicer finish. Non shiny (dry) carbon fiber is much, much stronger as the resin is baked within the weaves as it's being created. This is because it has less air bubbles trapped inside and less impurites this way but takes alot longer to make and therefor, costs alotmore. It also weights around 60-80% less than shiny carbon fiber. I believe for high end stuff like some supercars and racecars, they actually use dry carbon fiber to make parts super strong and much lighter and then coat it in gloss or more resin to give it a nice appearance. Basically combining the two together.

True lol but this is making even less power than it should be. Every now and then it gets a decent amount of power back but after a few minutes, it'll go sluggish again.