mitchy_

slimline and standard are the same width.

dont Series 1 use DB1398? perhaps S2 RWD stagea's use S1 AWD brakes? what size are the S1 stag rotors, 280mm? if so, that S13 disc would be a perfect fit.. however, i have some yellow R33 GTS-T calipers that would suit your car perfectly.

i've got a 33 handbrake lever if you are after one darrin..

makes the tailgate sit flush with the rear bar.. hurry up and make those moulds, i know a black stag that needs the roof rails removed!

...you mean your radiator doesnt sit dodgily in the middle of the radiator support bar? best get mine checkd out!

just a little update.. my new 'new car' arrived in the country this week.

r33 rotors on s2 stagea calipers?

the bar on EGA41T is a S2 260RS, the bottom bar in shonkys post is a S1 260RS, and the bar you are getting shonky, is a dolphin aero bar.

you're a dodgy back yarder mark. 99% of the time the 'back yarders' are better, more customised service, not just mass produced products they try flog every day.

i thought as much, and a shift kit is on the cards anyway..

after reading through all that, i can understand the safc/sitc is a more favourable option, due to the price. HOWEVER, i have a PFC laying around, as my 33 gts-t was written off. is it worth installing that into a stagea, or trying to find a SAFC/SITC combo? because either way, im essentially not spending any money on either setup, but the pfc might be easier with the all in one option.

if its the same as an S1, i *should* have one, i dont think it got munched. will check tonight!

yeah it does need an inspection, its had an increase in horsepower, so you will likely need an engineers certificate to prove that your brakes are adequate (will probably need gts-t brakes, but you are getting them arent you?) i put it down as 250hp *cough* when i changed it.

thats what i did ripped the 2 hoses off the solenoid, joined it with a manual BC, and cranked it up to 13psi, 300rwhp goodness

its called rb25 boost solenoid mod i think. essentially you ground the solenoid, so its always open (the ecu opens it at 4,500rpm, so you have 5psi boost to 4500rpm, then 7 over that) you can either ground the solenoid, or just rip the thing out and join the 2 hoses (make sure you dont use a joiner that will restrict the hose I.D. otherwise you might get too much boost, ideally use a single piece) very good, cheap mod to perform on the rb25.

not worth the effort, leave it at full boost, and control it with your foot.

they fit just level with the guards i think.. due to most nissan rims sitting way too far in the guards.

if anyone has a problem with this, please speak to me instead of bitching and speculating.

grind off the back of the cargo bay, crewman ute styles! (kylie and i have already copyrighted the idea of a stagute, so ner! )

ive got a good 33 chassis you can transplant your RB26 into.

nah, no 33 again.. only thing i would have done to my old 33 was more hp, so no point buying another one. dan - the pinny has some of the mods too, the good old rust and bog+sand+paint combo works a treat

but you get more style points with the 18x10 cast chromies question for the rest of you, if lower sidewalls are so great, why do drag cars usually run ~15" rims? and race cars ~16/17" rims?

its already got pursuit rims, and i do have a grinder in the shed.

ive got an r33 gts-t manual box. good condition, seling cause my car was written off.