nizmo_freek

Hey mate At the moment im running 18x8" +28 offset with Toyo T1R 225/40/r18 fronts 18x9" +30 offset with Toyo T1R 255/35/r18 rears,these widths,offsets and tyre size are what Work recomends for our cars, they fit perfect, i have the rear of the car pretty low and the tyre clears the gaurd by about 2mm, but to be honest i reckon the widths and offsets are pretty crap, both the front and back wheels dont have enough dish (in my opinion) and the front wheels stick inside the gaurds to much for my liking, if i were you i would go for 18 x 9" +30 on all for corners (i have tried my 9" rear wheels on the front and they fit perfect but the tyre is a bit to big so it would scrape the gaurd if it was to low), so a 225 or 235 stretched on there would be perfect and you wouldnt have to roll your gaurds or modify anything. Im actually thinking of selling my wheels and getting another set but 18x9 +30 with 225 or 235 tyres for the front and 18x10 +38 with possibly 255's (i would have to see what size tyres would fit well) for the rear, i would have to roll the lip on the rear guards to make the 10" wheels fit ofcourse, that would make the car look so much better in my opinion ,the 18x10 have a 73mm lip which would look awsome Anyway i hope that helps for when you choose your sizes Cheers for the comments everyone!

Hey Kyle Any chance of you ever making a stock mount replacement mani for rb20/25det's in the near future?

Nope, definatly not, they look like a cheap knock off with a added vent on the side! Your original gaurds looked much better!

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago, turns out one of the big fittings on my intake manifold has rusted pretty bad due to a previous owners not using antifreeze, which in turn blocked the radiator and would cause the car to overheat, i would suggest taking out your radiator and get it tested and cleaned. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...-O-t196137.html

Cheers The wheels are 18" Work emotion XD9, the coilovers are Tein Super Drifts.

The standard ECU will not work with the new injectors, only the Power FC with the right injector settings will run them.

hehe, cheers , should have another new addition in there soon, ive got a hks 3037 pro s turbo kit on its way from japan

My car now with sideskirts, alloy radiator and i also rewired and tried to hide a few wiring looms (stock boost control solenoid, my alarm and the loom that sits near the left hand side strut tower, looks much cleaner now. Sorry the pics arent the best. Before After

Actually that pipe is a bit of a trick lol, i had nothing to block up that breather with so left the standard pipe that normally goes to the intake pipe on but blocked up the end of it (the hole in the intake pipe was blocked up aswell ofcourse), i have since got a rubber cap to block off that breather. Thats my car by the way , basically my setup is just the two breather pipes coming off the cam covers going into the RIPS catchcan, everything else was blocked off, my setup is illegal in aussie from what ive read but you could always just weld another fitting onto the catchcan and run a hose with a pcv/one way valve back to the intake manifold to make it legal over there, would be easy enough. You can see in these pics how that breather was blocked off

Dahm, now were can i get me one of those wings??

Well problem fixed I took the thermo out yesterday and tested it in boiling water, it opened up fine, so put it back in, filled the car while it was running with the radaitor cap off, thermostat still wouldnt open up and the heater wouldnt pump out heat after about 30mins of idling, so put radiator cap back on and went for a quiet drive, the heater started working after about 30sec-1min of driving so drove for a bit longer, stopped and checked in the engine bay, the radiator pipe from the thermo housing was nice and hot and both raditor pipes were pressurised. So everything works perfect now,the new 58mm alloy radiator obviously works really well as water temp sits about 1mm underneath the half way mark on the gauge even when giving it a "thrash", car runs perfect and the overflow bottle never gets above the MAX mark. I will plug in my Power FC in the weekend and see what temp its running Cheers for all the help guys!!!

No! 400r had a different "nismo pinstripe" ,different gaurd flares (front and rear) ,vented bonnet, nismo lm gt2 wheels (i think thats what they were called, could be called gt2) , different front lip, you get the point

I filled the motor/radiator up with coolant and left the radiator cap off then started the car and let the car idle, it was idling for about 20mins or more and the thermo never open, the coolant was very hot tho and the stock temp gauge was showing half, i turned the heater on aswell to get some water pumping around but the heater wouldnt even pump out any heat, just cold air. I will take out the thermo tonight and chuck it in some boiling water to see if it opens or not. Cheers

As i said before, i had replaced the radiator cap with a brand new one and it didnt change anything. In my opinion it must be the thermostat, as i explained before the thermostat didnt open up today when i was filling the cae up even when the car was sitting at full temp for about 10mins, if it was working properly the thermostat would have opened and sucked through some of the coolant which would make the bottom radiator hose hot aswell, but the coolant level stayed pretty much the same and the bottom pipe never got hot at all, hence the thermostat not opening and letting water through, which would be causing my overheating problems. Any more advice/ideas would be great

Why do you say that? The car does not blow white smoke, it does not use water, there is no oil in the water, there is no water in the oil and the car runs perfect! i dont have any of those issues.

Turns out the radiator isnt the problem (i dont think). Got the car running tonight (new alloy radiator and coolant) and had it idling while i was toping up the radiator wating for the thermostat to open, the car was idling for atleast 20mins, but the thermostat never opened, the water level of the radiator hardly dropped even when the car was up to full temp, the bottom radiator pipe stayed cold so im guessing the thermostat isnt opening. That should have been the 1st thing i shouldve taken out and tested, i just ruled it out because its only about a year old genuine nissan item, not sure how it can all of a sudden go faulty, seems weird to me, the car was running fine and didnt overheat after nissan had replaced the thermo,waterpump/cambelt etc etc. Anyway, what brand of thermostats do you guys use? im not really to keen on getting another nissan one if its just going to go faulty again (i bought the nissan thermo in the 1st place because if thought it would be the most reliable one, i guess not). Cheers

Hey mate Im very keen for one of these radiators, i just bought one from trademe (NZ ebay type website) and nothing fits on it. Any chance you would be willing to send on to N.Z for me? i need it asap, if you not willing to send one here i understand. Cheers Jason

Looks like i may have found the problem! Took out radiator and the top and bottom radiator hoses today, coolant was suprisingly nice and clean, but the top raditor pipe was full of rusted metal crap, the big nipple on the intakemanifold were the top raditor hose connects to has rusted away at the front of the nipple (see pic) which has obviously been rusting for a while sending rusted grunk crap threw the motor/radiator etc etc, which has probly blocked the radiator causing the car to overheat, the bottom of the overflow tank was full of brown rusty water which i didnt spot before hand. Possibly one of the previous owners didnt use antifreeze, or not enough antifreeze which has caused the steel nipple on the intake mani to rust pretty quickly, hence causing my problems. I will try and give the nipple a bit of a clean up and get most of the rust off, then flush the whole system heaps times, instead of get the stock radiator flushed/cleaned i might get an alloy one instead (will help with cooling when i start doing some track racing) ,and some new coolant ofcourse, i will update this thread when i have everyhing back together and hopefully fixed. Pics of rusty nipple! Cheers for your help

Thermostat is about 6months old and was a brand new nissan item which was replaced when i got the waterpump/cambelt etc etc done.

I hope not lol, but somehow i dont think so, as the car isnt blowing any white smoke, its not losing coolant apart from when it spews its out the overflow, the car still runs perfect.

The car never leaks coolant ever, the only time it has leaked coolant was yesterday when the overflow oveflowed lol. I will give the car a flush today and change the coolant I meant the hoses are spose to be hard when the car is at full temp and the coolant system is pressurised, lol , but mine are always soft when the car is at full temp, probally because most of the coolant run into the oveflow tank and then overflow, hence not much pressure in the system because there is hardly any water actually in the motor.

By the way, i forgot to mention that after the stock water temp gauge went between medium and high i went home and plugged in my power fc (still on the stand base tune) and went for a very slow/quiet drive , the water temp sat on 95deg most of the time, which seems a bit high to me?

Yea i might give that a go tomorow, the coolant is starting to get a little brown.

What exactly do you mean by hydrolic lock on start up? The car starts and drives perfectly.

Hey My coolant overflow bottle is filling up and spitting coolant out of the "hole" on the very top of the bottle. Last weekend when i gave the car a bit of full throttle action i noticed that the stock temp gauge was sitting just between the half way mark and the full mark, so pulled over but left the car running, couldnt see any coolant spilling from any pipes anywere, but the overflow tank was completly full (didnt overflow though) so i drove the car back home very slowly. One thing i have noticed is that when the car is up to full temp the radiator pipes are never hard (pressurised) ,in my old car the top radiator pipe would always be hard as a rock, mine is soft and almost feels like its empty, so i thought maybe the radiator cap is stuffed, went out and bought a new cap which changed nothing, pipes still soft and coolant overflow bottle is filling up. The coolant system is always full and i check the level all the time, there are no leaks anywere at all, the waterpump and thermostat are nissan items that were replaced about 6months ago. Any ideas what the problem could be? im thinking possibly a blocked radiator? Any suggestions would be awsome Cheers