Ceffy_SA

Yea looks very nice Ian, im sure their is someone out there that would be able to finish it all off for ya. Come down for a chat on the weekend.

Yea any of those (Bosch, Walbro, GTR, new Stock Nissan one) , i put a VR commodore fuel pump in my ceff, brand new for $98, is holding around 200RWKW, and basically fits straight in without and modifications, would go straight into a Laurel as the fuel pump setup is almost exactly the same as a Cefiro.

Your ceff is going better than ever Huddy, i was at the Drift Prac on Saturday wathcing and you were doing really well. How did you manage to pop a braided brake line though, thats a bit of a worry, as im looking into getting them for my ceff and i dont want them splitting on me I recently bought a Whitelind adjustable 24mm front sway bar from a R32 GTSt and a rear GTR swaybar, i have only put the rear GTR one in so far but already the car feels much better and more "stable" through the hills. Their a great upgrade for the car considering the price.

Hmm thats interesting, i have a 1.5 way diff in my Cefiro, about a year ago i replaced my oil with some Motul mechanical LSD oil (i think it was the Motul 300 stuff). Before i changed the oil the Diff was less clunky was was getting worse due to old oil, so i changed it to the motul stuff without using any friction modifier. After the oil change the diff became alot more "clunky" than before and alot tighter too, interesting thing is that after about 20-30mins of driving then diff warms up and almost all "clunky'ness" goes away and it behaves very tight.

The cars looking better than ever, the bonnet looks the business too

How much difference did it make when you upgraded just the master cylinder, is it worth just doing that because i have noticed that the booster on the R32's is physically larger. Oh and ill have to send jinman a PM, around $120 is very cheap for two ADR approved lines.

I did have a HKS automatic one, had a built in electronic boost gauge, ended up giving it away as i waas worried about getting defected for it, turns out with my new turbo i need one as my new turbo is only oil cooled which takes alot longer to cool down.

I didnt fix the problem in the end, my brake upgrade is still sitting in the garage, im going to get custom brake lines made up to size from someone like enzed to be on the safe side, and yea i had someone helping me bleed the brakes to no avail.

Had the same trouble with my Ceff, put the R33 N/A front rotors on, then the R32 turbo calipers connected them all up then tried to bleed the system and found that no matter what i did there was no brake pedal so to speak. I have also found that the std brake lines are not the correct fitting for the R32 calipers (they use a banjo bolt, R32s do not) and that the std brake lines were slightly too short on full steering lock. im assuming that the R32 calipers have a marking on them indicating which side they go on, i dont see how having the calipers on the wrong side would affect braking so much...

Yea i could see how it helps directing air through the radiator. Mine basically fell off and i have never put it back on, i should but my theory is that more air can get to the sump now maybe cooling the oil a little more, dunno really just a theory of mine.

I run some sparco 17inch rims, they are 8inch and and 9inch with +35 and +38 offset (i think), i also have fitted some wide guards, aparently over 30mm wider than the stock ones.

As did my "mint" GTR pump, had a workshop put it in, had been working fine for about a year until a couple weeks ago when my car started running very, how can i say, shit. Turned out it was the GTR fuel pump so i replaced it with a in tank VR commodore replacement fuel pump ($95 brand new, all i could find at the time) put my car on the dyno again to check A/F ratios and they were all sweet at 160RWKW

Has a Dr Drift re-tuned ECU at the moment, had the ECu re tuned recently after the turbo was put on but my time was cut short on the dyno because of worn out GTR fuel pump and then Misfiring plugs, its now all sorted but i havent had the chance to get the re-map finished. I was kinda hoping to get close to the 200RWKW mark with the new turbo or al least see an improvement over my original 165RWKW with the stock turbo on. 200RWKW with new Rx7 turbo wishfull thinking perhaps?

Discopotato do you think i would be better off fitting a RB25 exh housing to my current configuration and also going with a better compressor? Also out of interest have you seen any power figures with this type of turbo on a RB20? Thanks

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Ceffy_SA/DSC00096.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Ceffy_SA/DSC00097.jpg I currently have a Rx7 turbo installed on My RB20DET Silver top Cefiro, its basically a Rx7 HT-18S turbo of a S4 Rx7 but it has had a RB20 turbo rear exaust housing fitted to the turbo and the large steel wheel from the Rx7 turbo has been kept with the Rb20 turbo exh housing "machined" to fit. Overall the compressor is not much bigger than the STD RB20 turbo (from memory it was only 4mm bigger on the exducer side) but ther is not much lag at all, really, currently full boost (around 14psi) is available at around 2800rpm, "Spool up" time is increased a little but its not huge by any means. I havent had it dynoed properly yet or tuned yet for the new turbo but the car does seem alot quicker with the new turbo on, boost no longer tapers off in the top RPM range and i can run over 15psi without worrying about the stock ceramic turbine shooting off. The turbo only cost me $500 and only required a custom oil line to be made up for it (going from ball bearing to plain bearing)

I do, but they are currently residing in the front of my cefiro where they will remain

mmm money, Sharing is caring Huddy Sureley someone has some square lights out there somewhere

Hmm, not wanting to get flamed but, seeing as no one else knows Beej personally on the forums i though i would just say that he's a mate and that i have seen his car hit 9000rpm and is still running fine (well as far as i knew). Contrary to what most people think he does know his shit when it comes to engines. I just thought i would try and stick up for Beej in this seemingly one sided dispute.

I have an Autometer gauge which has replaced the stock oil pressure warning light sensor. It reads in PSI so i dont know if it will be any help to you but i use a 10-40 Motul oil in my RB20DET which is basically stock, on cold start i get around 60-70psi of oil pressure at idle, after around 5-10mins of driving it will read around 6-15psi of pressure at idle and rise to a max of around 45-50psi at 3000rpm when hot.

&^^ Argh mein eyes the goggles do nothzing

there tricky to trim off, a friend and i used a soldering iron to "melt" off the little locating lugs, worked ok and there were no sliced fingers.

My old Cefiro AFM died, went to Z-imports and bought another one for $150

Hey Simon, do you know if you have a Cefiro/Laurel version of the RB20 or has your RB20 been taken out of a skyline (R32 ect)? I have the Cefiro (earlier) version of the RB20 which has different AFM, coilpacks, ignitor box, ECU, loom ect ect.

I live in S.A and have been pulled over plenty of times in my ceff, but only defected once. I was in the wrong place at the worng time i guess, was a female copper that defected me, she was driving the other way, spotted my shiny intercooler did a instant u-turn after me and pulled me over, bam, defect Most of the time coppers dont look at my ceff really but as soon as they hear some turbo "noises" then they seem alot more interested in the car.

lol, that air vent cover is rare'er than hens teeth I think 15-17K would be a reasonable asking price