Al

What's your point???? Not all imports come from the snow covered mountains. The cheaper ones are covered with rust due to the salt roads in these areas. Just raising the question whether someone would buy a cheaper import if they saw the car covered in snow, like that one was.

A snow flake is light and fluffy, that on the other hand is not so light and fluffy. ie: 1 tonne of feathers is still as heavy as 1 tonne of iron. But i was mainly referring to the environmental conditions the car is in and all the inherent issues that it will cause over time.

From what i have heard you aren't shy on power either. I bet my torque and power will be easier to control than yours. Just have a look how progressive my power curve is and how flat the torque graph is, especially on low boost, and how early they come in. NO LAG FTMFW!!!!! At my last Advanced Driver Training day, with Driver Dynamics, they wet the first corner and got us to stomp the accelerator from 40km/h, in 2nd gear; car went round that corner sideways nicely, 4 times. On the last run the instructor asked me to not use the throttle to regain control, just so that the car gets out of shape. Damn this is going to be sooo much fun!! PS: No Westies interested in driving to Sandown together?

WOW! I wounder how many people would still buy this car, if they saw this pic before purchase.

Any more pics of your boot lid? Is it all c/f or is it fibreglass with a c/f layer?

Should fit without any problems. If your car does not have an airbag just remove the airbag bulb from the cluster and if you have disabled the HICAS, remove that bulb too. I have fitted a 96 GTR cluster into my gtst with any issues.

Hitting 19psi at 4500-5000rpm is pretty normal on an rb25; It is a 500+hp turbo.

Nope, i found them more expensive there.

Went there Sunday morning and it's shit. Honestly if the decent cheap stuff was there it sold out before i got there. They just had a few RC cars at $400+ and a couple of rc helicopters. I have a small rc chopper that i bought for $35, they had one very similar for $50 SALE pfffft what a joke.

Do the crime pay the time. I dare say you will be lucky if they only double your existing suspension, you may loose it for 9 months in total.

Dale has hit on a lot of good points, take note and complete the simple tests. Don't shoot down suggestions without trying them first, as you are the only one that will lose/gain from the results. 270kw from an rb25 is very different to 270kw on an rb30. With that turbo you should be making at least 330rwkw, so drop that exhaust and do another run on the dyno. You will also need to fit at least a 1bar spring in the waste gate, as a 7psi spring is way too soft and will allow the gases to escape prematurely.

psi: The plate is only held in by two existing bolts, so it's really easy/quick to take off. Not sure why you would need/want a hole for adjustment anyway; once the belt is fitted and properly tensioned you wouldn't need to adjust it again. Thanks Lee.Pretty sure it's a S2 motor. Few more angles of the engine on the stand, not sure if you wanted to see any other pics; like the pistons, head porting, engine bay prep and completed engine bay, etc.

Mine has a plate too, but is not welded, just bolted on, like the other two covers.

Agreed

Happy B'day mate!!

What size is your rear housing? I have seen the same turbo, with a 0.63a/r housing, on a rb25, boost creep as well. Basically the front and rear ratios are missed matched, causing boost creep. How tight is the actuator arm? Is it adjustable? The hole on the arm should only miss the flapper mount by about half the hole width. Any more and you may be restricting the movement of the flapper, causing it no to open fully thus unable to bleed off enough exhaust gases. Also check the the split pipe is not interfering with the flapper movement. Disconnect the actuator and check that the flapper moves freely through its full 90 degree movement. Also note my low boost is set at 15-16psi (using a 15psi actuator), so if i am getting boost creep it wouldn't show in my setup. I am also using the std flapper that came with the turbo. Just remember you need to bleed off a lot more exhaust gases to maintain 10psi, than you do to maintain 17psi. My exhaust also has a "bell mouth" at the turbo (not split pipe) which is said to be better for boost control but apparently make a little less power (2-4rwkw) Hope that helps

Thanks. Yep, internally gated turbo. At the time of buying the turbo (and most other parts for the build) i was going for a stock look, like Cubes has. As time went on i found out that i had to buy a GReddy plenum if i wanted to use a strut brace, things just snow balled, the "stock look" idea was thrown out and an "all out" approach was adopted. The manifold has provisions for an external gate, but i am happy with how the setup is currently performing, so i have no plans, as yet, to upgrade the rear housing and but a external gate.

Insurance can only be void IF they can prove that the modification in question was the reason for the accident. eg: If you have an aftermarket control arm and it snaps, causing the accident, and they could prove it, then yes your insurance is void because aftermarket control arm are illegal. But they can not void your insurance because you have a bov, two intake mods, etc, when you have run up the back of a car or whatever. That has come straight from an insurance representative.

Happy b'day Shan!! Where have you been hiding?

Are you really that petty and mentally insecure that you need to try and insult someone even after they have explained where the information came from and even after others have also backed my statement. Others have also stated that rim width recommendations will vary, depending on tyre manufacturer, so we may both be right. Grow up little fella, you have a lot of information to learn, to know what i know. Before i knew any better, this is how a 275 tyre fitted on my 19x8" rim. I did all sorts or motorkahna, drift and motorsports events with these tyres and never had an issue, that is not to say that i recommend using such a wide tyre on a narrow rim. I now have 245 at the rear and will be going 235 all round once i need to change the rear tyres.

If you look at the high boost, torque and boost curves and compare it to the low boost, torque and boost curves, you could see that the turbo is choking itself and has past it's efficiency flow rate, thus the boost and the torque start falling off. It is due to this that we did not push any harder or increase the boost any more. Things may change a little when i do my exhaust swap/test, and if i can get the turbo to hold boost on high, just like it does on low, i will push it a bit harder. Also consider the fact that the turbo is rated at 500-550hp, i am currently making 325rwkw; considering drivetrain losses, etc, i am at the turbo's limits. I have no intentions to upgrade the turbo, even though the engine has been built to handle heaps more power, as i will lose the response that makes me grin from ear to ear . Attached is a pic demonstrating the components used to achieve the good results at the current boost levels.

A new quality actuator will give you better response and control boost better too.The factory actuator will work, but the spring may be a little weak, causing exhaust gases to "leak", resulting in poorer response (making it more laggy) and the power to feel doughy.

Thanks Ash. High Boost: Low Boost: The turbo has a 15psi internally gated actuator. The head has been ported and also has a pair of Tomei Poncams (series 1 type). Not too sure how my head compares to a std rb26 head, but i think there wouldn't be much difference.

That's a pretty strange/poor graph; what yours is making in hp i'm making in kw. Even the curve itself is not what i would expect from the combination. I personally would look at the exhaust system and remove anything smaller than 3", as this would definately have a -ve effect throughout the whole rev range, even replace the cat with a 3" pipe, just to test how restrictive that particular cat is. With my previous rb25/HKS GTRS setup my old exhaust was causing the turbo to act like a big top mount; had sooo much lag then everything at a flick of a switch. Replaced the exhaust and cat and gained soo much low-mid range torque and power that the tune jumped into another load band on the ecu. Below is a graph of my current rb30/rb25 setup using a Garrett GT3076R turbo with a 0.8# rear housing. The exhaust is back to the first system i had, but with the "cat" from the second exhaust systems. I prefer this exhaust because it has two mufflers and a 12" hotdog, and is pretty quite, but i will later change the exhaust and do another dyno run to see if any gains could be had.

Just going off a tyre chart i have seen. A 245 tyre is best suited to a rim with a width of 8" to 9".