I got an NRMA inspection done in sydney. And they got everything spot on. Got a new clutch, and an oil seal somewhere. He didn't pick up on my stock boost gauge not working, but I think the guy was impressed with the car...
I had something similar... A workshop had "forgotten" to tighten up the intake piping so as soon as I got boost, the car died in the arse... The guy who owned the house I broke down in front of was kind enough to come out with a screw driver for me
I got mine at a dealer... Northshore Prestige. You pay more, but they installed a new clutch and an alarm for me. The cars they had there were all stockish, but clean as a whistle and you can take any of them out for a test drive before you buy it - which is why I didn't self import. Anyway, those guys seemed to know their stuff and they didn't bullshit me (like others I went to while looking around). All in all, it was pretty smooth.
I sell body organs. Not my own though - so if you wake up after a hard night on the piss with a bandaid and some panadol then I may have paid you a visit
All right then... 100W bulbs will be more likely to melt lenses than dual 55W's but anyway... You'll probably want 10 amp fuses instead of 5 though (100W / 12V = 8.3A)... I found that 5 amp is just on the limit for the stock bulbs, so I'm running 7.5's now.
Mine's been going for over a year fine, and it doesn't affect it... Besides which, normally you don't sit for ages with your high-beam on and the wind while driving is enough to cool it. I have S1 lights with the glass lenses.
Crimp / disconnect the vacuum hose going to the top of your BOV... If you do it hard enough, you'll get flutter. I make no gaurentees to the longetivity of your turbo though as it's the sound of the air being forced back through the turbo...
Electronic boot release is easy to install... Jaycar has the kit, and you need a relay too. I've held my solenoid in with cable ties, and it's been there for about 9 months and gets used all the time. Just be careful though - if you set the thing up to pull the cable and not on the actual lock, it can sometimes pop open the fuel cap too
Hi,
For some reason the links broke. Anyway, I fixed my pics, and I made a wiring diagram too. Please note, the diagram represents ONE set of lights, and you'll need to do it twice - one for each light
It oculd be a switch to raise or lower the marker that sits on the opposite corner of the front bar to the driver - for all those people who don't know where the dront of their car is. My mate's brother has one. It raises the pole up about 60cm and has some lights on top. The switch was near the handbrake - next to the coin holders.