Airzone

i used a dremmel with a cutting bit. But I could have used a hack saw or a jig saw (if I were careful). The dremel was a bit loud though. You may need to cut the protective base off, as well as chunks out of the 4 edges. The plastic is stong enough to be stable after the mods.

I just trimmed my stock ones... They take a bit of fiddling though.

I'm looking at getting a 10" subbie and using this space for the placement... Could you install a divider wall to shield the battery / electrics from the sub? You'll get less obstruction this way

My car still works, if that's any indication If you disconnect your battery, make sure you turn off your alarm, otherwise it *should* sound. And you will probably lose your radio stations.

I did it without disconnecting the battery via the consult port and a paperclip... And the ECU told me that everything was fine too

You'll have to tell me what you think of the fuel economy... I thought it was pretty poor for city driving after I did this mod... Maybe because when you put your foot down you're getting more boost...

You just can't go anywhere these days without stumbling across a test track... What's the world coming to?

C'mon - $0.30 by the time you factor in wire and crimps The solenoid acts like a T piece when it's open, venting to the BOV return line. So you'd need some hose and a T piece. When it's closed, it's just a straight line to the wastegate for the princely 5psi of boost

I've had mine open for ages... Did the wiring one day I pulled a sickie. I compared it to a mate who doesn't have this mod, and the benefit was only marginal... Not even half a car length difference... By the time you put your foot down, you're pulling over 4,700rpm and you lose the advantage you get. It's really not worth the extra fuel you use.

The only time I've ever been pulled over for an inspection was in my shitbox n12 pulsar.. I got off scott free but earlier that day I had resecured my battery with the clamp instead of rope..

therefore it's half as fast as a v8

it has english letting on it, as opposed to japanese lettering :-)

I had a 100 yen coin. It's still in the same place as I found it.. My lucky 100 yen I found out that my space saver tyre is an original japanese one, and it's still got the unused dye on it...

I reckon you should get a 3rd party check done on the car regardless of if it's a provate / dealer sale...

I had these on for the 2f2f drive in night

What's the likelyhood of an rb26 gts4 being sold as a gtr? They're all indications, not absolute proof. The more indications acediac has the more able he is to tell real from fake. But no one indication can provide proof.

A few things I'd look for (correct me if I'm wrong) - ABS brakes: No ABS = no GT-R. Look for a bunch of brake lines going over to a control box somewhere in the engine bay :-) - If the intake pipes stretch over the top of the engine, it's not a GT-R (a front facing plenum won't stretch over the top of the engine either) - Look under the front wheels for a drive train / front diff :-) (GTS-4 is supposed to be 4wd as well) - 2 turbos could be an indication also :-) (that should be a giveaway) - The boost solenoid on a GTST is on the passenger side of the engine bay. I believe the boost controller on a GT-R is on the right-hand side(?) - Look at the engine number... It'll probably start with RB26 instead of RB25. Down on the passenger side near the flywheel. Doesn't the v-spec also have an active limmie? Perhaps you could look for control wires coming out of the rear diff...

Well, with the wing and bonnet scoop, you'd wanna bloody hope they have some clear tail lights too, otherwise you're not getting the full deal Parag0n - since the rest of the car is about visual horsepower, then the turbo would be a little out of character, right? Perhaps an electric turbo, or even go for an authentic experience with some empty turbo housings and a heater core / computer radiator (from a watercooler) as an intercooler As an optional extra, perhaps you could install an old 9kg gas cylinder with a NOS logo on it

"Subaru spokesman David Rowley says: 'We are confident that people will be able to distinguish between this car and the WRX. For a start, there is a slight difference in the acceleration figures.' " Just a slight difference

go to mount akina!! lol!

The line can go from the yellow thing to anywhere on the turbo outlet pipes before the throttle... If you have a bleed valve or boost solenoid then you run it from there... But you don't have to connect the wastegate actuator to the compressor housing - just anywhere where there's boosted air

See the cylindrical looking thing with the little yellow cover on the side... I'm dead sure that's the wastegate actuator / diaphram and that's connected to the wastegate by some lever (can't see on the pics). I'm sure that you can run the line from your wastegate line into that connector that the yellow cover is hiding. I suppose you also need to find out how much pressure is required to open the wastegate.

Just a quick thought... GTR is 2 door. And your (?) GTST is 4 door... Which implies to me that the door trim might be longer on the GTR than on your doors. Maybe the front seats will go in fine, but the rear seats could be problematic, as you now have doors...

I have a related question and don't want to make a new post about it (whore alert ).. I have the same optioned SRS airbad steering wheel on my '95 S1 baby... And I want to take it off to check the HICAS sensor and put it back on after I'm finished. And I DON'T want to set the airbag off in the process. So what's the best way of doing this? I've never removed an airbag wheel before and I'm a little paranoid..

R33's have steel compressor wheels, right? How high can you wind up the boost on one of these turbo's with nylon compressors?