Airzone

Good to see the EPA passed you. Now why is it still on the car? You should have parked on the side of the road just around the corner of the EPA to re-install your boost controller

If you don't have hard evidence, then you don't have a case. Unless you have absolute proof, no chance. Sorry, that sux really badly.

Look at the clock, then look at the condition of the car. If they don't match, then it's been wound back. I got mine with "42,000" km on the clock... For a '95 car in January this year.. Yeah, right. I've added 11,000 on it in 6 months. But the car's in pristine nick. If the owner has wound it back, then he has also taken real good care of the car

Ah! I've done that before... It feels really ordinary...

What is axel tramp?

Heh, not an official skyline club cruise, 'cause there'll be more 180's than skylines before long

Heh, did almost the exact same thing in my old VW beetle.. Snapped a bolt that held the exhaust system to the block. Had to take out the engine (which, mind you, took 15 minutes and 2 guys lifting).

Heh, it works Cost me all of about $0.30 for my first performance mod. Here's what I did... Got a length of wire about 5cm long and stripped both ends. On one side went a small fork crimp and the other side had the smallest spade crimp I could get (about 2mm). Got another length of wire about 20cm long, and put a similar spade crimp on one end and a crimp with a 13mm hole on the other end.. The big wire went on the LEFT connector in the solenoid and was bolted to one of the bolts that held on the power steering bracket. The small wire went from the RIGHT connector of the solenoid and I cut one of the forks off. The remaining fork was shoved in the RIGHT connector of the original sire to the solenoid.. Electrical tape holds it in tight. No pics sorry, but it gave a little extra boost between 2.5k rpm and 4.7k rpm and you don't get that extra boost level at 4.7k rpm anymore. Now all I need to do is find a purely stock skyline to test it out (not while it's raining though )

Hi, The bottom line on the solenoid goes to the T piece that in turn goes to the wastegate actuator (where your bleed valve probably is). The top line on the solenoid goes back off into the BOV return line. As I recall, it's under the air piping that leads into the turbo inlet. The striped wire (to the right of the plug) is a constand 13.5 volts The solid colour wire (the left of the plug) is a negative trigger controlled by the ECU to open the solenoid. The solenoid is fully electric.

Hi guys, Just looking to modify my boost solenoid on my stock r33 gtst. I went out to the car with the trusty ol' multimeter and disconnected the plug to the boost solenoid. I measured the voltages and although one of the lines was 13.5 volts, bridging the 2 connections showed nothing on the multimeter. My guess is that the ECU has a negative trigger that controls this (i.e. takes the negative line and shorts it to ground when it wants the solenoid open). Just to test, I left it disconnected and went for a fang - and no trademark boost increase (was expecting that anyway). Anyway, I figure that if I were to have the solenoid always open, the midrange power should increase because there's going to be 7psi of boost instead of 5. Then when the engine revs above 4,700 rpm, it should be exactly the same as before ('cause that's when the solenoid is opened by the ecu). Obviously it'll also have no effect while the turbo's not boosting. So, I'm going to modify the solenoid so that it's always powered either by running my own lines into the beast, or joining the ecu's negative trigger to a real ground (won't affect the ecu anyway) which should also keep the thing always open. Won't increase performance much, but should give me an edge over other stock r33's

Yeah. That import site says they don't do RHD -> LHD conversions... You need to go to another place for that. What does an aussie compliance include? - Child restraints - New filters / fluids - New tyres - Brake pad check and replace if necessary - New Seatbelts - The compliance plate Anything else? Given that tyres aren't included in the cost, I can't see why this costs so much. I imagine it would be fairly similar in the US, with maybe a MPH speedo conversion (even though my first car here had a MPH readout instead of KPH).

I always thought that dual pipes was for people with external wastegates.

What possibly needs to be done to make it legal that would cost that much?

That's a pretty sweet looking car Man, it's weird looking at a car with the wheel on the left side of the car...

Is this one - http://www.seriouswheels.com/1967-Cadillac...orado-black.htm

Man, that link didn't work for me - said that it couldn't find the page I was after...

I have once... But that was when I was a babe, uneducated in the ways of nice cars

What's an eldorado? (aside from a car )

well, I'm sold. No more crappy ceramic turbo for me!

Just a quick one - is there any advantage to having a 3" front / dump pipe with high flow cat and a stock cat-back system? Obviously it's not going to be as good as a full 3", but as a first installment in an exhaust, I just want to know of any potential benefit.

Passenger side, down near the flywheel... That's where a mate found it while buying his r33.

I got chopped by a series 6. But it had a couple of mods (and my 33 is stock to the balls). They look sexy though.

Hrmmm.... GTST + Electric turbo = GT-R... Man, where do I sign up? And how much were those GT-R badges again?

Yeah, I'll be coming - nothing else to do that weekend

Woo hoo! Now all I need to do is sell the skyline and buy an rx7