Rolls

why on earth are you using a microleb ?

you find the map I am talking about?

just use water meth injection, only comes on on high boost, advantages of running better fuel. or get a flex fuel setup so you can fill up with E85 when you want then switch back to 98 halfway through the tank

hate to fag up your thread but I dare say never.

power is spot on for 14psi

Just hook up ecu talk, it is obvious it is a tune issue as when it happens it fulls all timing back, it either happens or it doesn't. the fact that changing the values in that table removed it 100% is pretty good evidence to me, the fact it doesn't always happen might indicate your temperature sensor is damaged.

Now has bilsteins and whiteline springs from one of sydneykids packages, got it 2nd hand with only 10,000kms on the, such an improvement over the frankenstein stuff I had before, rides better, less bouncing, stiffer and much more neutral handling now.

I have a top feed alloy rail with spacers to suit GTR injectors that will suit an r33/neo r34 etc $100 + postage also have gtr injectors, resistor pack, fuel regulator with all fittings to suit if interested

I have a resistor pack for GTR injectors, located in SA, $50 + postage. PM me for details also have gtr injectors, resistor pack, fuel regulator with all fittings to suit if interested

I have 6 second hand GTR injectors, they were flow tested and cleaned about 8000kms ago $170 delivered Australia wide. Pm me on here for details. I also have a fuel rail, regulator with all fittings and resistor pack to suit if you are interested.

Is it too loud? if it is then it will be a problem depends about the chassis rail, best bet is to just go and find out.

I also had this problem and went to see Pete at nistune here in Adelaide when I had a road tune done, he was unaware of it being an issue but he looked at some of the cold coolant temp trim tables and set all the cells to 20 degrees in one of them, it completely removed cold start ignition trim doing this, means it drives like it is hot when you first start it, we did this just as a test to see if this was the correct map to edit, I will be getting him to put some sane values back in there next time I get it tuned so there is a cold start ignition trim, just not the pull all timing and build 2psi in neutral cold start it was before lol. I will find the exact name of the map next tiem I talk to him, it was a 2D graph map with ignition vs temperature or something like that and it only went up to 2800rpm which is where it kicks out of cold start if you load it up. My cold start was so bad I needed 50% throttle to drive the car in winter, and this was right on the threshold of kicking out of cold start so in winter when wet trying to pull onto a main road the car would pull all timing, spool up massively, then break into wheel spin, then stall up again making it quite dangerous to drive safely when trying to accelerate with moderate acceleration up to speed. The only bonus of the old coldstart is my car would get up to running temperature in ~2km, now in 5km it doesn't even get off the gauge.

you should just wear a tshirt that say "worlds biggest dickhead" same outcome really.

so where in adelaide can we get E85 at the pump?

Sure did just pass regency with the Z32, highflow, 740cc injectors and a basically straight through 3" exhaust LOL

sure did pass regency with Z32, nistune, 740cc injectors highflow and a basically straight through 3" exhaust LOL looks stock as a rock though

Just got my car road tuned before the dyno with 740cc deatchwerks, in hind sight they might have been too big for my application (rb25 neo with 250kw highflow) I went from a crappy magnaflow reg with 440cs to a stock rail, reg with the 740s and the car started stone cold first go, ironically it idled and low load was actually better with it untuned than it ever used to be, starts every time with no throttle. Anyway got Pete at Nistune to do a road tune with them to make sure there weren't any major issues before the dyno, unfortunately due to their size we had to play with the k factor a fair bit to get enough resolution to get the AFRs above 10:1 in the top end, this in turn meant my idle and low load suffered a bit, though with lots of tweaking the latency and making sure the O2 was set up correctly got it as good as it was before, able to mantain stoich idle and get it up to 11.5:1 in the top end with enough resolution to still tweak it further. The real test will be when we get it properly tuned on the dyno and see what sort of economy I get, it is fairly poor at the moment but the tune was just a "good enough" one before getting on the dyno. Pete was very sceptical of them being able to work with the nistune and get the low load/idle/cold start working properly but when he saw how well they worked was quite surprised, even more so that they worked with no tweaking at all from my previous setup. Will report back when I get the full tune done and do some testing to see what fuel economy is like.

Just got my car road tuned before the dyno with 740cc deatchwerks, in hind sight they might have been too big for my application (rb25 neo with 250kw highflow) I went from a crappy magnaflow reg with 440cs to a stock rail, reg with the 740s and the car started stone cold first go, ironically it idled and low load was actually better with it untuned than it ever used to be, starts every time with no throttle. Anyway got Pete at Nistune to do a road tune with them to make sure there weren't any major issues before the dyno, unfortunately due to their size we had to play with the k factor a fair bit to get enough resolution to get the AFRs above 10:1 in the top end, this in turn meant my idle and low load suffered a bit, though with lots of tweaking the latency and making sure the O2 was set up correctly got it as good as it was before, able to mantain stoich idle and get it up to 11.5:1 in the top end with enough resolution to still tweak it further. The real test will be when we get it properly tuned on the dyno and see what sort of economy I get, it is fairly poor at the moment but the tune was just a "good enough" one before getting on the dyno. Pete was very sceptical of them being able to work with the nistune and get the low load/idle/cold start working properly but when he saw how well they worked was quite surprised, even more so that they worked with no tweaking at all from my previous setup. Will report back when I get the full tune done and do some testing to see what fuel economy is like.

It isn't transferable, and even if it was small companies will weasel there way out of it and you'll have to take them to court to get anything out of them. Bite the bullet and take it out and get a reputable workshop to look at it, imo there aren't many and I've heard far more bad stories than good stories with rebuilds, I don't really trust anyone these days though a second hand GTR motor is just as risky as most rebuilds.

That indeed does sound like a clutch then, look into jim berry clutches, he grabs a lot of off the shelf stuff and ups the pressure plate clamp pressure to make some fairly ordinary stuff hold big power without being undrivable, there is a thread here somewhere "need a clutch" or something like that

Could it be the diff opening up? I thought I had a slipping clutch, turned out it was the diff really badly one wheeling, would spin first 3 gears in the dry at peak torque. If it happens in 4th and 5 then year fair call, best way to tell is find a steep hill you can do 100 on and punch it in 4th, it will definitely slip when boost comes on if it is the clutch.

this is bullshit

Could you explain the science behind the FNT or even a diagram showing what it is and how it helps? Google didn't help me much.

PM box is full