Rolls

Well it went from bad to good to bad after the final tune, and was also good before the first tune, so it is possibly temperature related but I am quite confident the two periods where it idled well were hot and cold, definitely a possible scenario though. I'm thinking this is two seperate issues, a vac leak causing the popping on idle etc, and then the cold start valve obviously not being plugged in, tomorrows cold start test will be interesting anyway. Thanks for the help so far.

Ok it does have a plug it is just in a prick of a position, I put it on, guess we will see what happens tomorrow, I have absolutely no idea why it idled perfectly for about a week though??

ok found a spare blue plug coming out the injector loom, this could be what it is for, I cant for the life of me find a plug on the cold start valve though.

See mine looks identical to that but I've felt all around it and can't feel where any plug would go on, there are no spare loom connectors down there either, nor is there one in the manual. Maybe I need to get under the car to see it, can anyone confirm it definitely does have a plug?

Hmm after wiggling every thing around it seems better, not 100% fixed like it was though, not sure could be a coincidence, are you 100% there is a wire there? The block is neo and the intake/aac is r33, so I would have used all the r33 stuff and Im pretty sure the air regulator was attached to the intake manifold so that would be r33 as well, can't see any pictures of an electrical plug in the r33 manual either.

Ok found the air regulator, can't seem to find any plugs on it though, I'm guessing that is probably what is loose though.

Where abouts under the plenum, near the injectors/under the TB ?

That turbo I showed feels extremely linear, slow ramp onto boost, but it comes on very early, full boost by ~3200 rpm and just pulls linearly, no massive kick when it comes on boost.

The fact that unplugging the bottom plug made no difference to the idle when cold means that if the cold start heating element is indeed powered it must be powered via this plug, perhaps that is where the wiring issue is, I will meter it out and see that it is getting power. Unless of course it is purely mechanically actuated via coolant temp, can anyone confirm this?

So the bottom connector is the PWM signal from the ECU, where does it get power for the heating element? I thought it was purely heated via coolant, esp being as there are only two plugs? Can you confirm on your 33?

There are two plugs on the AAC, one purple one on top and a orangey one pointing straight down, the bottom one is hooked up but nothing happens when I unplug it, the top one my loom doesn't have a plug for. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know what the top plug is for? I doubt it is my problem unless some gremlin in my engine bay gives it power randomly depending on the week, but it might be something to look into.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9011/img20120517221202.jpg http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/959/img20120517221116.jpg because the other two images didn't work

What do you guys think of this? Highflowed RB20 turbo on an rb25det neo, it used to make 230-240kw on an r33 motor and fall over at 6500, now it keeps on pulling all the way to 7500 hence the higher power output, dyno reads average/high compared to others in SA so could be closer to 250kw GCG job with garret BB core and I'm pretty sure GT2871 spec turbine/compressor Does this seem like a legitimate result with an rb20 turbo housing? it feels like 260kw with 2nd never hooking up on the street, even half throttle it wants to spin up. boost - ran it up on 19psi but i would still taper down to 17psi with the controller and only made 5kw more in the midrange http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9011/img20120517221202.jpg afr - detuned to 11.5:1 and made 254kw for safety. http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/959/img20120517221116.jpg

As in it was a cop fest?

Anyone able to help with this? Really would appreciate it, means I miss a lot of replies in topics as I just don't check my "content I follow" very often. Thanks again, I am enjoying the new layout though, much more stream lined.

Can try just filling out the engine change form and leaving the capacity standard etc, dodgy but I've heard it can work. Regency isn't so bad, means if you ever do get defected youll pass first go, plus they pick up lots of things that you really should get fixed anyway like bushes, boots, bearings, CVs etc.

So I just had my car tuned with 740cc deatchwerks injectors with stock rail and reg and z32 run by a nistune, it is an rb25det neo but with r33 intake and rb20 sensors in an r32 so it has the R33 AAC valve but only with one plug hooked up as that is all the loom has. Now the car when I first put the injectors in untuned (was tuned for 440cc and different fuel reg) it started instantly, barely one turn of the starter and it fired up and purred like a kitten, no popping, no hunting, perfect 1200rpm idle when cold that slowly lowered to ~700rpm over 5-10 minutes however when hot it was about 600rpm and a bit shit. During the tune we had to change the kfactor and injector latency a fair bit to get it lean enough up top (got numbers as low as 7 on boost out of a range of 255!!) and this seemed to make the idle quality suffer a bit when hot which was expected. On cold start once again it would start immediately when breathing on the key, come to 1200rpm but be poppy and a bit average but when hot great. I then had a full dyno tune where we played with the settings further getting everything perfect, after this it would still start great, but then after 3 seconds splutter and stall, restart and after 3 seconds drop to 2-300rpm and you'd kick it, come good, and go on 3 second cycles, splutter splutter, then back to purring at 1200 rpm etc after a few minutes it would idle fine at ~800rpm but poppy and hunt from 700-900 rpm, hot idle was great. I dealt with this for a week and then it seemingly fixed itself, back to idling at 1200, not a single rpm deviation or pop, if anything the idle was slightly too high, when hot idled perfect. Another week later back to shit idle again. I spoke to Pete at nistune (he did the tune) and he doesn't think there are any odd maps it could jump to to cause this, we also copied the warm map to the cold map so they are identical, It sounds like it might be a mechanical problem but the 3 second intervals just seem to random for it to be. I tried unplugging the O2 sensor incase it was trimming too much/too little but no change, tried unplugging the TPS and no change, I also unplugged the AAC valve and no change, surely one of these should be affecting the cold idle? I know there is a thermostatic valve which is run via coolant temp, but I would have thought the PWM signal for the actual AAC would be active at all times. What is the next thing to check? I'm guessing it might be the cold start coolant fed part of the AAC which I could try blasting out with compressed air and soaking in petrol over night, but are there any other settings in the ECU or mechanical/electrical things I should check?

I found something similar in practice, on a hot day with my old tune 3rd gear ~18psi rattled like crazy, could hear the det without knock ears, a minute later 2 degrees out of peak torque and we could idle the car for 10 minutes getting the coolant >85c and it still wouldn't ping in 3rd even listening on the ears.

Yes they will do the trick.

Probably running stock ecu and more boost + fmic + exhaust Remove boost controller or get the car remapped/ecu, it will be a rich misfire from the stock ecu dumping so much fuel in.

Was going to go watch in my charade, it is entertaining to watch them all take off some someone stack it into a curb with their shiny rims.

What fuel setting?

Are you running an atmo bov or have the stock one blocked off and fluttering with an AFM? that will make it go rich on gear changes.

It is a street car, I would be nervous running it above 11.5:1 on the track, though I would be dropping the boost level for safety as well. What are your thoughts on lean + less timing vs rich + more timing? I've heard the japs don't even use AFR they just use exhaust temp and go rich as hell and smash the timing into the motors. Is your secret method a garden hose? Ear muffs with a microphone wrapped in a rag? cmon spill.

I had mine at 12.5:1 pm 19psi dropping to 16 psi making 260kw on a highflowed rb20 turbo on a neo, it also didn't ping which is suprising considering how small the rear housing is. we detuned to 11.5-12 for safety but you can get away with it if timing is conservative. What is your new setup?