Rolls

4.375 vs 4.111 ratio

Yeah I want something with the threads already tapped preferably.

So I have an autogauge oil pressure and oil temp gauge and need a filter plate to suit the two fittings. I've read the just jap ones suck, I will be using it on the block not on a relocation kit, can anyone recommend a brand that has good spacing and is generally trouble free to fit? I'm pretty sure they are the same fitting for all skylines (neo rb25det here). Cheers

I remember there was another very nice result like that where VCAM was used, anyone remember which car it was?

Has VCAM I'm pretty sure.

Hope you got it all right, no one really commented as pretty much everyone here pays a shop to do that stuff. Everyone is paranoid of doing it wrong, only need to stuff up one thing.

Depends whats wrong with it, if the wheel ate the housings and there is nothing usable $0 Otherwise maybe $100 if its a neo turbo and someone wants to high flow it.

Would it make 26psi by 4100rpm on 98?

price drop $500

Will buy it mate, sent you an SMS with details.

So this comes with the DIN plates and all 3 gauges? Are the gauges easy enough to wire up to standard water temp senders etc? What car does the DIN plate fit, R32? if it fits an R32 centre console and will accept the 0-5v (I think) signal from the standard water temp/oil pressure senders then consider it sold.

I was joking lol

Really shows you have no reason to not get cam gears as well seeing that graph.

You can calculate it from the power graph if you have the rpm but yeah always nicer to just have it from the dyno print out.

You've never seen someone load the engine up to get it on boost and then do the run?

God you can be a wanker nismoid, you know what I mean. Start it at 2000rpm like a normal dyno run, eg on appropriate load settings, not holding it on massive load so that it doesn't increase in rpm pre spooling the turbo. If you start it at 4k you could have been holding it there for 5 minutes before hand, we don't know. At least if you were to do that at 2k it wouldn't cheat the dyno result too much assuming of course the correct ramp rate for the rest of the run.

obviously, same with holding it at x rpm loading it up before hand.

not really a very good dyno sheet to compare with, need to start it at 2000 without loading it up for 30 seconds before hand.

sounds like you are under estimateing how much the swap will cost you.

Really? How? it has a 3.5-4k spread of useable power, lots of motors have this? Albeit often not as nice as this it has certainly been done before.

You guys are forgetting the FMIC, the effect this has on air temperature on cool weather vs hot weather is massive. The larger the temperature differential the better it cools the air, this is almost solely the reason cars make more power in winter. All of my completely stock skylines have been MASSIVELY faster in winter vs summer, I'm talking almost 100kw differences with a shitty pod and FMIC that gets heatsoak driving in traffic in a 35c day vs a 10c winter night in the hills.

harsh

he is running a 20

Restriction is restriction regardless and kills hp. If what you say was desireable all the time then just use the stock manifold with a gate on there?

I know this is a gold plated apples and off oranges comparison but how nice are the wastegate angles in this setup! from a 2000hp evo lol! http://forums.bimmer...d.php?t=1575817