Rolls

I think he meant more that it won't make big power above 7.5k with stock cams etc.

That is awesome news mate! Could have just saved yourself years of paranoia if you didn't get the test done. Just make sure you get the follow up done to get a trend and then sounds like you shouldn't have any issues!

Very nice work mate!

yeah but fatz he wants to chirp second

Are you crunching gears or flat shifting with the clutch half out or something?

do you have ADD or something

There are only 2 people who work at nistune lol, and both of them have full time jobs it is just something they do on the side for a hobby.

dont waste your money on a bandaid solution. For the time being turn the boost down by putting the old R33 actuator back in instead of the r32 actuator, that will drop your boost from the 12 odd psi you are getting at the moment to ~6-8psi which will stop it spluttering at peak torque. It won't magically fix your other problems though, this is assuming the problem is the ECU is making it run rich as f**k and getting the typical rich misfire. It could be something entirely different. Just take it to a shop and throw money at it, as it doesn't sound like you are able to do any work yourself anyway.

You retune it, either convert to an R32 ecu and go a nistune (looks stock and won't get picked up if you get defected) or you go an aftermarket ecu and retune. About a $1000-1500 adventure to do properly if you are paying for 100% of the work to be done.

imo it is almost certainly your problem, just rich, bad spark = misfire because it is running rich as hell. though it probably has a whole host of other issues like air leaks, old dying sensors etc like every other shit bucket skyline on the road, they are old cars and stuff is starting to break en masse on them if they haven't been meticulously mantained.

R&R is just a section of the load map, if you are running extra boost, big exhaust, FMIC etc you will always hit it with the stock ecu if it hasn't been tuned. Basically anything that improves performance/airflow over stock.

Exhaust leak, sounds like your nuts aren't done up tight and the gasket is flapping around. Check the tension on all the bolts.

Yeah stuff like this is almost impossible to be 100%, even with the car in front of you you can end up swapping a few things before you figure it out. Welcome to the joys of cars, I hope you have lots of money.

Sounds like you better take it to a performance shop as it doesn't sound like you can do any work yourself bar change a tyre... so if you can't do it yourself then they are going to have to do it anyway. Might as well get them to figure it out. A failing fuel pump will cause a lean condition though???

So you have described it is down on power at peak torque, does it misfire (a misfire sounds like a pop, pop, pop) or does it just splutter and feel like it has just stalled? Does it ONLY happen at 4-5k or does it continue to happen from 4k to redline? Does it also happen at idle/low revs/low load? To answer your question of why do I say R&R or why fuel pump or even why cas/afm this is why: If it happens from 4k to redline and is more of a splutter just no power I am going to say it is your fuel pump that is dying as a dying fuel pump generally provides fairly consistently not enough fuel at all times, this means when > x fuel is needed the car leans out and basically dies in the ass, eg > 4k rpm and it just doesn't have enough fuel to run. This generally won't be a pop, pop, pop but just the car feeling like it is dying and you've taken your foot off the accelerator. If it ONLY splutters at 4-5k (peak torque) this is when the maximum fuel and air is in the cylinder, this is when the mixture is the hardest to ignite and also the point the ECU makes the fuel as rich as possible. Hence bad plugs/coils (weak spark) and lots of fuel (needs strong spark to ignite) means if the car is going to misfire due to a spark failing to ignite the mixture, it will do so here. Hence why people often find the car misfires (loud pop, pop, pop) at 4-5k but then find the car revs out cleanly to 7.5k. This is usually caused by a combination of bad spark (cracked/cooked coilpacks or old sparkplugs) and overly rich fuel mixture eg 10:1 AFR due to the ECU going to the rich and retarded quadrant of the load map, lowering the boost to stock or retuning this part of the map will fix this issue. If it seems to happen randomly everywhere and is just generally shit it may be something like a failing sensor eg AFM or CAS as these are usually intermittant and don't get worse dependant on load, they just randomly shit themselves for no reason. Hence stalling, missing at odd revs, down on power and generally all round shit performance. However fuel pumps can also fail intermittently and cause it to stall at idle, and cause the lean out situation randomly. These are just all general diagnoses, it could be any all or none of the above, and they could all exhibit completely different effects, though generally they will do as I have described. Note this is important, if it is the fuel pump leaning the car out causing it to die then this is a DANGEROUS situation as it can cause the engine to ping/detonate due to running lean, this will melt pistons and generally destroy your engine very fast so don't go driving it around trying to rev it out over and over again as you may do permanent damage to it. Once on the dyno it will be very easy to see if it is failing fuel pump, get it there asap. Plugging a consult cable in will sometimes diagnose failing sensors, though unless they completely die the ECU is often unaware that they are giving inaccurate signals. edit: I can't believe I actually bothered to type all that out, must be in a good mood.

EBC is useful for getting boost to hold to redline in a highflow pushed to its limits. Also good for running low boost on hot days or when tracking etc. Eboost street is a great little uni that I use, about $400 new or $2-300 second hand. Very easy to use and lots of features, nice boost display as well.

What rpm does this all happen at, is it everywhere? Or is it at the typical peak torque point on full throttle of 4500-5500 or is it both. If it is just the peak torque point then yeah, Id say R&R due to plugs, coils, too rich etc. But if it is happening elsewhere then I believe you have other issues.

Can always change it, head gasket isn't as bad as changing pistons lol.

quote name='Mick_o' timestamp='1328260599' post='6217356'] how do you get your oil cap off with that intake?

Tuner wars for the lol. Who gives a f**k.

Epic, running 30psi? edit: Running 12.1 afr??? hax

Who knows it might cause a lean out due to the afm seeing zero air.

Wow this is the first I have ever heard of it, interesting. Could you convert to under bucket from the 26 easily? Would be the ultimate head having VCT imo.

In a set up like this what are the typical gains nismoid?

but their airflow at the same boost will be greater, hence different load points? I am assuming they have different trim wheels.