Rolls

If you just bolted two on changing nothing else surely the emissions would go up the shitter from the extra airflow? Interesting how they pass that.

The engine completely dies, then it slowly opens up a bit then sucks shut again, basically feels like the engine has been shut off.

from the factory?

At a visual inspection do they look identical to stock turbos? If not then no it will not pass. Remember they will be looking from above and from below. Do they have tags on them which indicate they aren't factory nissan? if so remove them. Any markings, numbers or letters on the housings may be a give away, grind them off and then grease it up so it doesn't look brand new imo.

does this really add much to the valve train weight? Or are there other issues with shim over bucket?

Which makes it sound more like a flow issue, and not exhaust side as that tends to send temps up and hence detonate. Which leaves valves, intake, leaks??, turbo, cam timing etc.

Do you have the actual ignition barrel?

Yeah the bearings was just an example, I doubt that is the case here, chances are it is fine but you've spent a lot of coin, $50 oil analysis is good insurance.

Financially it might be a better decision to sell the motor separately and put a 20 back in the car and flog it off for $5k, this is assuming you have the time and equipment to do so.

I can understand this, a full reco'd head might be better value than doing just the springs on your head. Though you'd want to make sure it was a reputable company that supplied it.

I honestly have no idea but better to be safe and sorry, oil analysis can tell you more than a visual inspection of bearings half the time. Lets say for instance the bearings are completely wrong tolerances, the oil analysis will tell you that, if you continue to drive it it will chew everything the f**k out and could cause a catastrophic failure.

Oh SOUNDS the best. Shit yes, rb20 is hands down the best sounding RB there is imo.

you are a funny bloke roy haha

What benefit would there be in changing the entire head?

Yeah this is a good point, if its working why change it. If for any reason you do need to pull it out though I wouldn't hesitate to get a cheap 25 det block and put that in.

What does the power graph look like? When valves go it is often very bumpy up and down, but even if it is smooth it doesn't rule it out. I've only ever really hard of this happening on rb25s not 26s though. Wait for someone with more experience to reply.

Oil analysis asap, don't run it until you get it back. Depending on results run it for another few hundred kms and oil analysis again. If the trend looks bad pull the motor down, if it has improved significantly you might be fine. If the results you get back on the first test spell disaster pull it down now. Remember if you pull it apart early the damage might be minimal, if you wait until you spin half your bearings and send metal through everything then you might be up for a lot more money.

lol another 1k for an rb30. good joke

Best to do it on a dyno where you can graph boost vs rpm so you can safely play with it without crashing your car into a tree or popping your motor because you weren't paying attention to both at once. Also means you can get the boost curve nice and flat.

best at what? stopping a boat from moving? :lol:

But like you said it sucks at making power easily.... why do you persist??

Buy an rb25 already roy.

Awesome deal for the coin spent, you'd have zero chance of building this for that money. Should be a quick sale.

Either that or could it be that with those bigger cams the exhaust side is choking?

Yeah you have to set the coolant temp tables up more aggressively though, so that if it gets over 105c it just pulls all ignition and dumps 100% fuel. Do you know if they had been touched at all?