Sydneykid

I have asked Caz for a Group Buy price, starting at 10. I will let you know how I get on. Cheers

3 race meetings in 4 weeks, in 2 states. I just wanna sleep for while in my own bed. I'll PM you tomorrow cheers

Sorry for the delay, I have been away from my engineering computer for a week. Big ones, 630 lbs per inch (11.2 kg/mm) cheers

Sorry for the delay, I have been away from my engineering computer for a week. Fronts are 235 lbs per inch (4.2 kg/mm) Rears are 155 lbs per inch (2.75 kg/mm) cheers

My 20 cents follows; 1. Nope, at 1658 kgs it's not sport car, it goes good with 170 or so 4wkw, leaps of the line stalled up against the torque converter, virtually unbeatable in the rain, hangs on around corners (has the Group Buy suspension kit). I don’t consider an R32GTR a sports car, so the Stagea has no chance of reaching that description. 2. It's fast enough to feel fast, surprises almost everything, you can beat almost anything to the speed limit, no wheelspin or noise, true stealth speed. 3. Nope, they don't even look at it, probably don't know what it is, most likely think it's a Volvo 4. I don't get the stupid "whart booost does it run maate" questions or the "throw us a wheelie", such a relief. The smarter guys ask about it, the usual stuff about how it goes, how it handles etc. You get the odd neck twister look from Skylines owners. 5. You will like the extra traction, but you will feel the weight. As I have said to a couple of other potential Stagea owners, if you want the best value for money performance waggon by far, then the Stagea is the one for you. cheers

WHAT That's Bathurst weekend You are pulling my leg aren't you cheers PS. I have something that will fix that problem for you Liz

Hi Tom, you made the right choice in the first place, my suggestion would be Power FC with Boost Control Kit (BKC). Use the map sensor take off that you have made for the BKC map sensor. A Motec M48 won’t run a 6 cylinder fully sequential, you really need to be looking at an M600, for around twice the cost of a PFC with BKC. The price of the ECU itself is almost irrelevant, it’s the cost of the install, initial set and tuning where the Power FC has it all over the others. cheers

Post up something tomorrow and I will try for you cheers PS; there are 2 sides to every story, all the previous posts were one sided. Someone had to put forward an alternative view point.

It's not difficult, just select the appropriate bump and rebound valving. There is no magic. I have done quite a few cars using Bilsteins, for less than 1/3 what HKS charges cheers

I have used Magic cats the last couple of times and they have worked very well. Try the Group Buy thread. cheers

You need to be very carefull what part numbers you sellect as the valving is different. That is why I spent 3 months engineering the Group Buy kits. PM me and I will try and help you out. cheers

Try the Group Buy, link follows; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 This is a sample of the sort of feedback from guys on the Group Buy, there are over 60 kits now installed.

I have had to close the R32GTR Group Buy for the moment as Bilstein have run out of R32GTR front shocks. This does not affect the R32GTST Group Buy, there is still stock of Bilsteins (front and rear) available. cheers

It has an LSD problem, how else are you supposed to test the limited slip action if you don't "slip it"? cheers

It's called a test drive. You have a diff problem and he is trying to feel for it himself. This is expecially important if a visual inspection has found no issue. I think it is good practise and I would go there again. cheers

A few of the guys with Group Buy suspension kits have asked if I can make it to the next track day. So when is it, so that I can lock it into the calendar? Eastern Creek, is that right? cheers

No I haven't, I very quickly got sick of people walking up to me when it was idling in neutral and telling me to turn my engine off because of the big end rattle. I make them go away by pushing the clutch in and the rattling promptly stops. cheers

Only once I have had a similar problem, that was at 5,250 rpm in an RB30. What I did was set the ignition timing from 4,500 rpm to 6,000 rpm at zero and richened up the A/F ratios to 10.5 to 1. That totally eliminated any chance of real knock. Then I went for a little walk around the engine bay on the dyno with the chassis ear. It turned out to be the remote oil filter sandwich plate tapping on the oil pressure gauge adaptor. They were located right under the rear knock sensor. There was obviously was a slight engine vibration at that RPM, which I later traced to an unbalanced pressure plate. Every other time I thought I had phantom knock, it went away with the extreme rich and retarded settings. So it was real knock, and needed to be tuned out. The answer is there, you just have to be prepared to spend the time looking for it. cheers

Based on my experience the PFC knock sensor numbers are a combination of loudness and frequency. If you have a loud knock, that doesn’t occur very frequently, you can get the same reading as a soft knock that occurs often. For example, if you have one cylinder knocking loudly you can get the same display as if you have all 6 cylinders knocking softly. Obviously a soft knock at 6,000 rpm may give a similar reading to a louder knock at 3,000 rpm. So saying stuff like I get “100 knock sometimes” is not at all useful for your tuner. You need to be able to tell him at what rpm, what throttle position and what sort of load. If you have a Datalogit this is obviously very easy to do from the log. If you don’t have a Datalogit, then the best method I have found is to set the Commander for 4 displays. Being knock, rpm, TPS and AFM voltage. When the dash warning flashes, I can see the knock reading and remember what the other outputs are at that time. This is obviously easier with a passenger or a video camera (the poor mans data logger) pointed at the Commander display. It is so much better to say to your tuner, I get 80 knock at 5,500 rpm with 100% throttle and an AFM load showing 4.5 volts. That tells him where on the fuel and ignition maps to start looking. cheers PS; if you get reduced knock when you use 100 ron (compared to 98 ron) then chances are that is REAL knock and should be attended to.

At standard boost they are rich (11 to 1) Turn the boost up a bit and they go richer (10 to 1) Turn the boost up a lot and they go megga rich (9.5 to 1) Then they go R&R mapping (9 to 1) It's normal, that's the way Nissan tuned it with safety in mind. cheers

The "stock" R33GTR is somewhat more "stock" than the 260RS. The 260RS has better exhaust from what I have seen and runs a coupla psi more boost. cheers

If he already has GTR injectors he is looking for around 10% increase in flow from the AFPR to make his power target. Having tested GTR injectors up to 60 psi (standard is 36-38 psi) I can say the spray pattern actually improves. Better atmosation/misting. Thers is probably a limit to how high you can go before it all turns to crap, but 10% more flow sure isn't in the ball park. A Nismo bolt on AFPR (as used by Mines and me) costs $150 from Nengun, so it's nowhere close to the cost of an injector upgrade. And takes about 10 minuted to fit, so no labour or extra parts required. cheers PS, it's all in the numbers 440 cc's = 440 bhp = 331 kw - 70 kw losses = 261 rwkw at around 85% duty cycle.

My first guess would be the oil return to the sump is blocked, not connected properly etc. I'd check that first. cheers

One day I will put one of these into a 240/260Z RB30 block and crank 3.1 litres 13.5 to 1 compression ratio Polished combustion chambers 272 duration 10.8 mm lift cams Titanium retainers Tome valve springs, 55 lbs at the seat 2 mm oversize inlet valves 1 mm oversize exhaust valves Ported RB26 cylinder head Ported RB26 inlet, multiple throttle bodies and plenum Tuned, coned collector extractors 4” titanium exhaust JE forged pistons Carrillo rods and rod bolts ARP main bearing studs ARP head studs ACL race series bearings N1 oil pump, with wide flange drive crank collar RB26 water pump Elf LM fuel Motec ECU Motec CDI Mercury outboard coils WoooHooo……400 bhp here we come….and wouldn’t it sound good cheers

347 rwkw + 75 kw losses = 565 bhp Out of 550 cc injectors, that’s a good effort, what pressure are you running with the AFPR? GT35 with .63 turbine, that’s a small one, what’s the rating on that? Isn’t it 550 bhp or so? Standard valve springs, maybe it’s not the coils causing the misfire it might be valve float. Standard Cams, what rpm does it make the 347 rwkw. 21 psi, what plug gap are you running? Be careful with the Walbro pump, at 198 litres per hour and 21 psi + fuel pressure it’s going to run out of flow/pressure shortly. Knock sensor voltage indicates how loud the knock is, not how frequent it is. cheers