Sydneykid

Forged rims are harder and lighter but more brittle. This means it takes more to bend them, but they are more likely to crack. Cast wheels are softer and heavier, but not as brittle. They are more likely to bend than crack. Simplistically, there are 2 types of cast alloy wheels, the more common is gravity cast. This means the molten alloy is simply poured into the mould using gravity ot fill the mould. The less common type is pressure cast, that means the molten alloy is forced into the mould under pressure. Pressure cast alloy wheels are a half way between forged and gravity cast. They are not as brittle as forged and yet stronger and lighter than gravity cast. Bottom line, forged wheels are not always better, it depends on the application. Then there is the budget consideration, judged as a purely performance upgrade, forged wheels are simply not good value for money. Back onto the main subject of this thread, wheel weight. Personally I find it very frustrating that the wheels manufactures don't publish the weight of the wheels. You can easily find the diameter, the width, the offset, the colours, the stud pattern etc etc . But finding out the weight can be almost impossible, many times even the manufactuers don't know how much the wheels weigh. So every time I go into a wheel shop now I ask, how much do those wheels weigh? Even if I am not interested in buying them. I figure if I ask enough times they might get the hint that's its important to the buyers and publish them. If we all do it, it will happen faster. cheers

Brake cleaner, keep it off the painted surfaces though. cheers

Yep...well sorta.....I pushed the buttons on the DFA myself sitting in the passenger's seat and Dyno Dave ran the rollers and did the driving. We didn't have a very large time slot, so it was really quick doing it that way. About 20 minutes all up, including tie down time. cheers

Oh my, who told you that rubbish? What evidence do they have? The R34 coil packs produce 15% higher voltage and have faster recovery times than an R33. We tested a set about 3 years ago, searching for a problem, but it sure wasn't the coil packs. cheers:)

Sounds like the typical standard ECU rich and retard strategy (R&R). R34 ECU's are very agressive when they see outside the normal sensor inputs. Personally I wouldn't be running the standard turbo at 12psi, I did that for 3 laps at Oran Park and it got ceramic in the cat disease. Ben did the same in his R34 at Wakefield. Around 10psi would be my max and even then the ECU is pretty agreesive and jumps to R&R mapping very quickly. cheers

The rear shocks on an R33 are much longer than an R32. They won't even go close. The front shocks are pretty much the same. They will basically fit, brake hose mounts are different though. The front spring rate on an R33 is much higher than an R32 because the R33 weighs much more over the front axle. So the front shock valving will similarly be way too high for an R32 The rear spriong rate on an R33 is a little higher than an R32 because the R33 weighs a little more over the rear axle. So the rear shock valving will similarly be too high for an R32. Even if they did fit. Botttom line, it's too hard/harsh for an R33 and it will be worse in an R32. cheers

If it is bushes, then most likely caster (front of radius arm) bushes as yhye get dragged whne you brake. But personally I reckon it's rotors, standard Stagea brakes are ....well .....not up to my driving style. The rotors warp pretty easily. cheers

The power steering is speed sensitive, that's one of the important inputs to the HICAS ECU. So the speedo sensor is intermittent, or it might have a bad conection at the ECU, check the speedo cable, they break on R32's regularly. Does the speedo needle jump around at constant speed? Next would be the gear position indicator, so the HICAS ECU knows what gear it is in. Is the selector sloppy? Or does the selector light flash? How's the gear change? These are all simple tests that any decent mechanic could do. The diagnostic is telling them what is wrong, then it's a simple matter of working through the usual causes. Don't let the fact that it is a Skyline get in the way of the usual logic, speed sensitive power steering is the same on all cars. Hope that was of some help cheers

Wow, you sure have a lot of different solenoid duties. Mine doesn't have anywhere near that many. Maybe that's the problem, I don't have this sort of mapping; 13=18 14=22 15=25 16=30 17=32 18=32 19=23 20=16 When accelerating mine goes from load point 14 to load point 20 in about 200 milliseconds. That might be what is causing the flutter, 16 (load point 20) is half the duty cycle of 32 (load point 18). That's a lot of reverse (higher load point, lower duty cycle) solenoid activity. In an auto you will get a slight flare in the boost on gear changes as you don't lift your foot (like you would in a manual to change gear) so you don't get a change in the injector duty cycle. I don't believe it is a problem as the standard ECU cuts/interrupts the ignition on the gearchange. The extra boost doesn't translate to extra load. cheers

Wilson's R32 GTR uses Motec Munro's R33 GTR uses ???? Mario's R33 GTR uses Motec Theo's R32 GTR uses Power FC (with AFM's) The SubZero GTST's mostly use Microtech, I haven't seen any Skylines with Haltec's. cheers

No, the rear shocks are totally different. cheers

There is currently a Group Buy on the Whiteline/Bilstein R33 GTST suspension kit. Pop over to the Group Buy forum for details. cheers

Replacement caster bushes, I would never ever use spherical bearings in a road suspension kit. Bottom right in the above picture. cheers

Check out the IEBC and DFA thread it has a few people's results as well. Our Stagea made an extra 30 rwk with just the IEBC (set to 10psi) and the DFA tuned. No mechanical mods, standard exhaust etc. With the IEBC set up correectly I get ful boost (10psi) holding it against the torque converter, that's ~2,400 rpm. cheers

Hi, getting Chris at Centreline to do it should be no problem and they are the best place to go. Please don't rub Chris's nose in it about the price, the truth is that it was a Skylines Group Buy for 100 sets off a NSW Whiteline/Bilstein distributor. He will understand that. As for cost, it is an all day job for one person with a little help from a second person for part of that time. It depends on how much fiddling they have to do to get the wheel alignment right. How good a condition and easy the other parts are that come off. Around $400 to $500 should cover it, but that is a guess. Cheers Gary

The earlier versions of the PFC need to have the changes committed. cheers

They come from Apexi with full access via the Commander. So I would say the tuner doesn't know what he is doing. PS; There is no such thing as a "password", if you want to lock things you tick the boxes via the software (Apexi or FC Datalogit). Datalogit Settings 1 screen follows; cheers

The first kits have started to flow out, this one is going to Needajapcar; cheers

Spot on, just PM with the receipt details for the transfer and and don't forget to inlcude the address and phone number where you want the kit deliveredto. cheers

When the current stock of Bilsteins runs out. My guess at the current rate of sales, maybe 3-4 weeks for the R33GTST and 4-5 weeks for the R32GTST. Then it might be 3 - 5 months for new stock to be ordered in enough quantities worldwide for Bilstein to make new minimum batch runs. In simple terms, Australia isn't big enough to gets its own batch runs, so we need to wait for Japan to order. cheers

I am currently working on the R32GTR and R33GTR Road kits, bit of shock valve engineering required. Nearly finished on the shock dyno, maybe tomorrow/Sunday. I will post up a new Group Buy thread for each as soon as I am finished. I have a lot to do; 1. R33GTST Road = done 2. R32GTST Road = done 3. Stagea S1 & S2 Road = done 4. R32GTR Road = in progress 5. R33GTR Road = in progress 6. R34GTT Road = commenced, awaiting prices 7. R33GTST Circuit = commenced 8. R32GTST Circuit = commenced 9. R32GTR Circuit = engineering in progress 10. R33GTR Circuit = engineering in progress 11. R34GTT Circuit = not yet started 12. R33GTST Drag = commenced, awaiting prices 13. R32GTST Drag = commenced, awaiting prices 14. R32GTR Drag = engineering in progress 15. R33GTR Drag = engineering in progress 16. R34GTT Drag = not yet started 17. R33GTST Drift = not yet started 18. R32GTST Driftt = commenced cheers

Oh dear, the same old question with the same old responses, one of my previous posts on this subject; cheers