Sydneykid

Hi Chris, you will need the standard top spring seats (the bilsteins come with nice new alloy lower spring seats), the standard bump stops and I would use the standard dust covers as well. If the bump stops and dust covers are stuffed, you can order new ones as an addition to the Group Buy. Check the Stagea Suspension thread for pictures. cheers

OK, well it is 2 tank fulls later (800k's) and I can safely say replacing the lambda sensor made no diference what so ever to the fuel economy. It definitely runs nicer, doesn't hesitate when full throttle is applied after long periods of idling (damn Sydney traffic) and cruising. But fuel ecomomy is totally unchanged. Gotta get that exhaust on and tune it up some more on the dyno. Just need a spare few hours. cheers

The usual problem with hoses is age related decay, so regardless, spend $25 and buy some new high pressure fuel hose. I use 2 X stainless steel clamps (they are ~$3 each) on each end of the hose; 1. from the pump to the steel fuel line in the boot. 2. from the steel fuel line to the fuel filter (under the plenum) 3. from the fuel filter to the steel fuel line around the plenum 4. from the stell fuel ine on the plenum to the fuel rail. About $100 covers the high pressure fuel hose and enough clamps (I usually buy a pack of 20). GWW should be able to handle the installation pretty easily. I am hoping not to have to do any of this to our Stagea ie; standard fuel pump, standard fuel lines, standard FPR and standard injectors. I have seen just over 200 rwkw from a few R33GTST's will similar mods. It will be interesting to see how the Stagea goes against this history. I did our Stagea in exactly the reverse order, stereo, suspension, brakes and now I am up to mechanical engine related mods. Although I did do some electronics (IEBC, DFA & SITC) in the middle, but that was mainly because I had some interstate work to do and the fuel economy was killing me. cheers

Heasmans - Sydenham East Coast - Kirrawee StGeorge Steering - Punchbowl cheers

Hop onto....... www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au Have a look at page 101 of the SuperPro bush catalogue, all of the sizes of shock bushes (usually double tapered) are listed. Measure up your shocks' eyes and order it off Fulcrum, they usually deliver overnight. cheers

Hi Brendan, you can get a bolt on Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Nengun for ~$150. Just unbolt the standard (non adjustable) FPR and replace it with the Nismo adjustable FPR. Note that this is a linear rate (not rising rate) FPR, ie; it maintains the same (but adjustable) fuel pressure above boost, whereas rising rate means the pressure above boost increases. I am not a fan of rising rate FPR's, they make tuning with piggy backs very difficult. They are OK for full replacement ECUs' or on cars that weren't turbocharged originally. I will repeat my usual word of warning, I don't like increasing the fuel pressure too much above standard without upgrading the fuel hoses and clamps. The standard hoses and clamps are designed for a base pressure of 36-38 psi, plus boost of 6 psi, making 42-44 psi in total. Increase the fuel pressure to say 45 psi then add 15 psi of boost and you have 60 psi in the fuel hoses. That's a big (~40%) increase in the load on the hoses and clamps. cheers

I work it out like this; R32GTST Front Springs $144 Rear Springs $144 Front Bilstein Shocks $485 Rear Bilstein Shocks $485 Total $1,258 Freight $0 as order is over $500 Less 5% as order is over $1,000 = $1,195 cheers

Hi JCML, there is no standard caster adjustment and there is also no standard camber adjustment on the front. There is a limited amount of standard camber adjustment on the rear, around 0.5 degree. Simple answer is yes, you will need some products. Check out the Group Buy for good prices and alignment suggestions. cheers

Hang on, I remember doing one for $1500, but that was only a 3 stage. I acknowledge posting that I could do a dry sump system for $500 MORE than a decent wet sump. Moving on............... Personally I wouldn't have a dry sump system in my road GTR, but I wouldn't have a 650 bhp road car anyway. That's a track car that just happens to be still registered. The comparison between the cost of a decent wet sump system with a proper high flow oil pump plus decent cylinder head oil control and a dry sump system is not as great as some people would have us believe. For a start the cost of fabricating a dry sump pan for a GTR is much cheaper than fabricating a decent wet sump for a GTR, with wings, baffles and one way doors having to be made. The real problem is the ludicrous prices charged for upgraded/aftermarket oil pumps (I don't consider N1 pumps to be aftermarket). Then there are the even more ludricous costs of the adaptor collar required for early RB26 and all R20/RB25/RB30 cranks. Add it up and I don't think there will be much difference in TOTAL cost, but there sure as hell is a big difference in effectivenes. cheers

What's with this thread??????????? I asked jas/slo32 Was that an AFM or MAP sensor driven Supra? And I get no answer. MacGuyver asked rd-runr That's pretty good, was it on an auto or manual? If it was an auto, was it with the injector harness only? What other mods did you have at the time? And he gets no answer. I ask rd-runr Is that fuel tuning only? Or ignition tuning as well? And I get no answer hoo@h has his car at Mercury Motorsport on the 26th August and they still have it. Now the guys at Mercury ain't inexperienced with Skylines and they couldn't get the EManage to work in 10 days of trying. For a product as expensive as EManage that seems a little excessive to me. I don't think I will ever seriously look at an EManage as a solution for tuning on any of my cars. cheers

Pictures of a front and rear Whiteline adjustable stabiliser bar install are on the Stagea Suspension thread. cheers

Because; 1. The standard turbo (after being high flowed) bolts straight back on. No mods required, no extra nuts and bolts, no new fittings, no fiddling with water and oil connections, no new inlet piping etc etc. 2. It is never going to be defected for having the standard turbo on it. 3. You won't get the same response out of a 2835 pros as you will out of a GCG Ball Bearing high flow 4. The delivered price is $2,593.77 plus Import Duty 10% and GST 10% total = $3,138. Sometimes you don't get caught and sometimes you do. cheers

Sounds good, except you should NEVER put lambda sensors in the exhaust upside down. They get condensation in them and this causes them to fail. Lambda sensors should ALWAYS face downwards. cheers

What are you asking for? "Lower shock absorber bushes for a Skyline"? That won't work, they will turn to the Skyline page and they won't be there. Try "universal polyurethane lower shock absorber bushes". I forgot Repco, they sell Nolathane bushes. Same deal. cheers

Drop the exhaust at the inlet to the cat and do one quick power run on the dyno. That will tell you whether it is the exhaust or not. For 20 minutes and $50 well spent. cheers

I am sorry I don't understand the question. Is it; 1. Will dissabling the HICAS fix a stalling problem? No, find out what the real problem is and fix that. The ECU has power steering load compensation, so increased power steering load from the HICAS should make no difference to the idle. 2. Is there any danger if the fuse is taken out? Yes, you have no hydraulic pressure holding the rear steering rack stable. Given enough load the rack will move. It might do it slowly and you will find yoursewlf driving down a straight road with the steering wheel turrned. Or it might do it suddenly and you will find what the scenery looks like in close up. Both #1 and #2 are band aids, find out what the real problem is and fix it. In the case of HICAS, the best fix is to remove it. cheers

Try you local Pedders, AutoOne, Autobarn (they sell Whiteline products), SupaCheap , Autopro etc. cheers PS; if the shock rubbers are stuffed, chances are the shocks are stuffed as well.

Hi Talej, emanuelt, AlexCim do you guys have a digital camera? Can you pleasae post up some photos. 1. It makes no sense that the lambda sensor would hit on the exhaust manifold, the lambda sensor is on the top of the dump and exhaust manifold is on the side. The Stagea exhaust manifold, turbo, heat shielding and standard dump are all the same as the R33GTS. So unless BOS has made a one off manufacturing error, there should be absolutely no problem in that area. 2. The floor pan on the Stagea is supposed to be the same pressing as the R33 from the B pillar forwards. So the R33 dump/engine pipe combo should fit the Stagea. This is where some pictures would come in handy. It would be nice to know if we are dealing with a dump pipe manufacturing error or whether there is some difference that we need to be aware off. Alexcim's comments (or rather his 200SX owning mate's) back up what we have found. The separation of the spinning exhaust from the turbine and the tumbling exhaust from the wastegate needs to be at least 400 mm. This allows time for the spinning to be controlled (eliminated) by the enlarged exhaust pipe and for the tumbling of the wastegate exhaust to be turned into flow. The blending of the two then can occur without creating the turbulance that robs power. The phenomon of less low end power from a split dump (and more high end power) is totally illogical as the wastegate shouldn't be open, so whether it is a split dump or a combo should make no difference. The only issue could be if the turbine outlet pipe is too small, but if it is too small at lower rpm then it sure as hell is going to be too small at high rpm. The reverse, more low end power from a split dump (and less high end power) is somewhat more logical. But again only if the turbine exhaust pipe is too small or the wastegate outlet rejoins it too close to the turbine as per above. Back to the problem at hand, anyone got any pictures of the problems? cheers

Do you want the knock levels for tuning or just for ongoing viewing? Impakt (refer to the Group Buy section) has a consult output screeen that will display every sensor input and quite a few of the ECU outputs as well. Very usefull diagnostic tool that works on almost all Nissans. If just for tuning. any decent dyno shop will have a set of "ears", there is no better knock reader than the human ear. cheers

Dyno Dave and I tuned the DFA in the Stagea on the race ream dyno, took about 1/2 an hour. Simple stuff, once you get accustomed to the Controller buttons and how much adjustment you need ot change the A/F ratios. cheers

JCML covered it pretty well, he has read some of the 100 or so posts on dissabling HICAS, that you would have found if you had done a search. "Freeplay" implies thsat there is some slop in the system, when it's new there isn't. But that isn't the issue, as you would have found out if you had down a search. The problem is movement, the rear rack can move under load without the HICAS connected, as you would have read in some other peoples posts if you had done a search. The best solution by far is to totaly remove the HICAS, there is a "How to" guide on it As you would have ........well....you get the idea cheers PS; did I mention that you should do a search?

Five choices; 1. Upgrade the rear callipers and rotors to R32GTR 2. Change the master cylinder to R32GTR, this may still give problems with the R32 rear callipers. 3. Change the bore/piston size of the master cylinder to R32GTR 4. Cut down the rear pads, this will reduce their effectiveness. You can "tune" the reduction by cutting off a little pad material, then try it, if still locking rears, cut a little more, continue until braking effort is equalised. Draw a diagram of how much you have cut off so that you can duplicate when you next buy pads. 5. Get a lower CoF rear pad material. Hope that helps cheers

It all depends on how good the tuner is, plus every engine is different. So there is no way I could tell how much better it would be with a PFC. As I said in the previous post, a DFA and standard turbo is OK. Good value for money option. Let's face it, you will be easily able to sell the DFA for more than it cost, if you choose to go PFC in the future. cheers

Holy crapola, 308mm. I can assure you with the Kit fitted and the alignment done, it won't feel "all sploppy and shithouse". The Stagea has 225/50/16's on it, and it feels tight and controlled without the harsh ride. 308 mm, unfarkin believable cheers

An A/F ratio of 12 to 1 is OK. For a standard turbo the DFA should be fine. You will have a slight compromise on the ignition timing versus A/F ratio. But it won't be dramatic. At 10 psi you will find the A/F ratio gets into the 9's, so 12 is a big improvement. Fitting the DFA to the Stagea gave ~10% improvement in fuel economy. cheers