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Everything posted by Sydneykid
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Sorry, but you haven't provided enough information to give a reasonable answer. What are you going to use the car for? What is your power target? What other mods do you have? What other mods are you planning? With that sort of info there are plenty of opinions that will be shared:cheers:
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Nope it's me, this is an SAU forum, interlopers need to be put in their place. :sadam: For heavens sake, he doesn't even know what a Stagea is :chairshot Talk about the great unwashed :kick: Occassionally I like to let it out and use a few smilies :uh-huh: What's wrong with that? :Pimp2:
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Hi John, this might sound like a strange question, but which way did they test the flow? In the direction of the normal exhaust flow? If so, how did they block off the 2 cylinders they weren't testing? If they blocked off the 2 non testing cylinders at the cylinder head flange, then I am not surprised that the centre cylinder flow less. The aerodynamics of the manifold would cause that. The only real way to test flow equality it is with all three cylinders being used in the same time frame as the cylinder firing. But that would be difficult as the primary runners are not the same length, hence the pulses would reach the secondary pipe at different intervals, ie; create interference. Perhaps a better porting result would be achieved if the primaries were of equal volume, as this would give the same result as equal length. That is where flow testing of equal length primary pipes, as you would find in any decent stainless steel pipe manifold, won't show up their true advantage. Flow rate is not the only gain to be had from equal length primary pipes. An example, the GTSR Group A exhaust manifold barely flows any more than the standard RB20DET exhaust manifold, but they make 25 rwkw extra. Why? Because of the extractor effect of the equal length primary pipes.
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Atmo BOV's make the car run rich on throttle off. So at low rpm's, if the PFC was tuned a bit richer than the standard ECU, then there will me a higher tendancy to stall. It can be tuned out, it is quite fiddly, with leaning off the A/F ratios at low rpms and advancing the ignition timing. This CAN NOT be done on the dyno, it has to be done with road testing.
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Which car do you prefer?? 56k Warning!
Sydneykid replied to OC's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I can't decide between a Mosler and a MacLaren F1 :confused: I can get the F1 serviced at my local BMW dealer, so maybe it will have to do:cheers: -
Yep, I have the Stagea for that, tows the R32's (GTR and GTST) very well, all over the country. Gets the boat up the boat ramp even when its slippery too, bet you have problems. :throwup: The Stagea has over 4000 newtons at all 4 wheels at 2,750 rpm, that's 500 newtons more than the SS ute. It makes boost on the torque converter stall, that's 2,300 rpm, it has double the torque of your car for a wheelspinless launch. :uh-huh: :uh-huh: Shoot I can have the race car trailer on the back and still out accelerate your car in the wet. :Pimp2: Yep, 4 years or 100,000k's, cost me $300 because Nissans are reliable. :innocent: The truth is they don't need services like our Commondoors do. I do my own sevices anyway, the only thing warranty and dealer service departments are good for is replacement parts. I am not going to leave my car at some dealer for a whole day just to change brake pads. I can do it in an hour and drive my car for the rest of the day. Plus they will most likely get some snotty nosed apprentice to work on it anyway, after all they make more money using the cheapest labour possible. :thumbdwn: It's a waggon, I could fit a double bed in there. But that's not the point, with the amount of money I saved buying and servicing I can afford the best hotel room in town. Far more comfortable and impressive that the back seat of a taxi. :thankyou: The problem is for a lot less than $53K I have a Stagea, an R32GTR or an R32GTST. The GTR and the GTST are both much faster than your car and the Stagea does everything else better as well. Then there is the REAL cost, the fact is I can sell all 3 of them for more than they cost me. You, on the other hand, are going to loose ~$30K in depreciation and lease costs over its life, and that's if you are real lucky. For what I do and what I use my cars for, I think I have better deal for my money, it's that simple.
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I searched and couldn't find answer/and or comments on these; How much did you pay for it? How many GTST's can I buy for that? How fast is it in the rain? Our GTR's are just as fast. How fast is on a bumpy/dirty road surface? Our GTR's are just as fast. That's the advantage of a GTST on a performance per dollars basis they are unbeatable. The additional advantage of a GTR is traction.
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I am a bit confused, need help, has anyone used the modyourcar single A pillar pod; Does it end up looking like bukey22's? (the small pictures on the previous page) If anyone has (or maybe burkey22), would a 60mm gauge fit? I know it will overhang the outside of the POD face, but will it fit inside?
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Me too, the compliance pads are getting thin:cheers:
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Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt
Sydneykid replied to Sydneykid's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
After I put the new belt on, the Stagea was up around 25 degrees, about 1/2 a retaining bolt thickness (~3mm) clockwise rotation of the CAS fixed that. I will leave it for a few days and then check it again, just to be sure:cheers: -
R34 GTR V-spec Skyline VS HSV or FPV
Sydneykid replied to fLipKnot's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
A $250 valve body upgrade fixes it, try that with a manual:cheers: -
R34 GTR V-spec Skyline VS HSV or FPV
Sydneykid replied to fLipKnot's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
A lower first gear would have helped, although it really needed a lower diff ratio as well to fix the 5th and 6th gearing problems. Then the fuel economy would have been crap, so its a no win situation. The Stagea cost me $17K, where can I buy a Cross8 for that? This thread is "R34 GTR V-spec Skyline VS HSV or FPV", since GTR's are 4WD they also have the same advantage. That's why I got an auto Stagea. The Stagea is an auto and I tow a manual GTST, best of both worlds. The GTST is faster on the circuit than the SS and the Stagea tows better. The cost of both of them, and the trailer, was less than the SS. It's a win win:cheers: -
Sorry, I didn't even know the difference at the time, we just used RB25DET springs because it seemed like a good idea at the time.
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Odd sized injectors and PFC rb25
Sydneykid replied to maximajim's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Makes no difference as long as all 6 injectors are roughly the same. -
RB25DET valve springs:cheers:
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Yep:cheers:
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Sorry I have never adjusted the inlet camshaft timing on an RB25DET with standard cams. Only ever done it when the VVT was removed and aftermarket cams used. I think it has an adjuster standard to allow for stretch in the cam belt, this would retard the inlet camshaft timing, which is not a good thing. Inlet camshaft timing has a big effect on emmisions, so maybe Nissan allowed for its correction to ensure emmisions compliance. That's my guess anyway.
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Any Clear Answers On Whats Defective
Sydneykid replied to maximumrpm's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
EVERYTHING is illegal, it's that simple:cheers: -
Some things I have experienced, might be worthwhile thinking about. The usual adjustment (noting that every car is different) on the exhaust camshaft is 4 degrees (retarded). The inlet adjustment is 1 or maybe 2 degrees (advanced), some engines like to run on 0 inlet can timing. Then the power gains, I have seen as much at 15 rwkw from adjusting the exhaust camshaft timing. But I have never seen more than 5 rwkw from adjusting the inlet camshaft timing. So be aware of the cost per $ equation when designing the inlet camshaft adjuster:cheers:
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R34 GTR V-spec Skyline VS HSV or FPV
Sydneykid replied to fLipKnot's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
A different slant on this story................. We had a manual SS ute for towing the race car around before I bought the Stagea. The problems with the SS were; 1. First gear was far too high and we had to slip the clutch a lot to get it moving and that was one the flat, we learnt to never stop on hills. It had 3 clutches under warranty. 2. The traction was lousy, in the wet or on grass or dirt (plenty of that in the pits at many race tracks) it would sit there spinning the wheels. The LSD failed twice under warranty. 3. We couldn't use 6th gear, it was too high and it would die even on the flat, let alone hills. Even 5th was too high going up and down the hills on the freeway. 4. Because of all this driving around in 4th and clutch slipping first gear starts, the fuel economy was horrible, 25 litres per 100k's was not unusual. The Stagea on the other hand has no problems taking off up the steepest hill, holds O/D and torque converter lock up on the freeway and traction is never a problem. The fuel economy is far better, we haven't achieved under 20 litres per 100ks' yet. There is no comparison for what I use my RB25DET for:cheers: -
That's the concept, but it is actually even easier to do. 1. The pipework that comes from the rear (HICAS) power steering pump goes under the engine and up the inner guard to the HICAS solenoids under the brake master cylinder. When you remove the solenoids, leave the pipework under the engine. 2. When the hydraulic fluid comes back from the rear steering rack, it goes through the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. So when you remove the rear steering rack and the pipe work from front to rear, leave the pipework that goes around the radiator to the power steering cooler. 3. Connect the pipe in #1 to the pipe in #2 using a peice of 1/2" rubber hose, so that the power steering fluid comes out of the rear (HICAS) pump, under the engine, through the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. Simple:cheers: PS; one day I will take a picture of the R32 GTST set up and post it up, save thousands of words being written.
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The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot. Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING. It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers). You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims. That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.