Turbine

Nice one Chris32, the way we will keep it from dropping power up top is with that mod to the turbine housing of the turbo. 'Get the air out' as best we can. For the lifters, I still have to work on a solid setup on the cheap. I want to find a setup that all you guys can benifit from. Give it a bit of time, I'll find it.

Thanks Cris32, thats great for a launch speed. Can use heaps of the torque at this speed. Turbine

Hello CEF11E welcome. The RPM limit will be set to 8500RPM. I believe the rotating assembly will handle it, and we will just spring the valves heavier to seat them. The lifters... well, solid is ideal and I have to look at modifying them if I want to spin this to our eventual goal of 10,000RPM. No ice will be used to cool the air. The intake air must be just short of the actual water temp that leaves the cylinder head into the radiator. If it's cooler, HP will drop, the air becomes heavier and slows down too much before it reaches the combustion chamber. The air has to be light enough and still dense enough for max power. It's somewhere around 60 - 80 degrees C, no more no less. :werd: With the porting, bigger is not always better. It will benifit from some porting but it will be the RPM that gets the flow up with an airspeed to match.

Thats nice power on the 20. Can you tell me what 80km/h equates to in RPM on that graph. It's sometimes hard to figure rpm vs speed because of the different car setups. Cheers Turbine

Ok, so far what we have done apart from what TurboX has explained. Basically stock standard RB20DE engine with a 500- 550HP turbocharger fitted. Run by an Autronic SMC engine management system. 760cc/min injectors with a 700HP fuel pump. Intercooling is through a liquid/Air cooler using a modified, standard GTS4 Skyline IC, also an Air/Air cooler to drag the heat out of the water. I'll have some pics of these pretty soon. For the moment, the standard size throttle body, cylinder head assembly, intake manifold and standard RB20DET exhaust manifold will be used. Both manifolds have provision for temperature and pressure sense ports. We want to individually check the temps at each cylinder under load. Gear box as you know is a 3 speed Jatco trans. Has a 7" 5000RPM stall speed torque converter hooked up to a trans-braked fully manualized valve body. Internally has carbon fibre (not kevlar)clutch and band material, with modified planetary gears and tripple the amount of oil flow throughout. I'm using an airconditioning condensor as a cooler. It's huge. Rear end is a Ford 9" with either 4.11:1, 4.44:1 or 4.7:1 ratios. Minispooled 31 spline axles on 30"X13.5"X15" rear slicks. Thats pretty much how the setup will be initially (but not for long ), so what do we expect to run over the 1/4 and 1/8th mile? Previously the car made 411rwhp to push it into 10's. I thingk the nissan engine is lighter than the big hemi6, that should give you an idea of how much hp is needed to run 10's. As you can tell it's pretty unrestricted what we can do. The only real factor to slow us down is the weight brake for a couple of classes. Super Stock Eliminator and/or Super Gas limit you to 8kilo/cubic inch, which puts the weight just under 1000kilo's. Thats at a guess. Ok, enough of that lets get back to boost mode. 20 psig or 34psia is going to be the initial boost setting, with the intake temperture set to cylinder head water temp minus 15*C. What do you think guys?? Turbine

Roy, Great comments mate, I've decided to create a new thread for our project "RB Racing_Turbine & TurboX" jump over if interested. The compressor flow rate is 54Lb/min for ours at the moment in that photo. Turbine

It's about time for a thread where we seriously chat about our RB20 race engine. A place to exchange information on the pros and cons of our ways of extracking maximum power and torque from the little 2.0L. With having chatted to some of you guys in different threads about our initial setup and future plans, I thought this could be a central place for us serious 'Petrol Heads' willing to exchange some ideas on pushing the RB20 beyond what the average joe blow thinks it's limits are. I'll start with a little info on the platform. The car is an EX Super Gas drag racer, previously owned buy a guy in Queensland who raced this car for 7 or more years between 1990 and 199X. Powered by a turbo charged 284CI Chrysler Hemi 6 cylinder, backed by a Torqueflight auto, this was a consistant 10.50@128MPH car in very primitive trim let me tell you. No injection, basic manifolding, no intercooling with 9 PSI boost. Our first goal with the new engine and gearbox setup is to run into the 10sec bracket with the RB20 engine backed by a 3 speed Jatco trans. Rather than go down the line of compromise, I'd rather get everyone to think radical, a more engineering or scientific train of thought. We will post up all the tricks and modifications that we have done, exchange comments on miths and old wifes tales of what we've all seen and heard of people attempting on their own engines to see if we can come up with a combination that will embarass the big block fanatics. This is a very new project to us both, but given our experience, we think the little RB20 has got the goods. Check out our web site for our previous machines. http://www.turboclub.com/ http://www.turboclub.com/Australia/Members/AU0000005/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00&ppuser=19114 These are the links to our progress on the nissan powered beast. We'll update these sites with every trick, mod that we put into it. So it's on, the space to race is here, lets show that the RB20 engine can pull the numbers that people never thought possible. RB Racing

Hey guys, The idea we had with this turbine housing was to put the wategate air path directly in line with the air comming out of the exhaust manifold. This way the air doesnt have to do a right angle turn to escape. We thought if we are going to boost this engine.... how are we going to get the air out of it. We could have gone the usual way with the standard 40 - 50 mm external gates that look pretty good but are crap for big airflow, or just crap for airflow full stop. Now the trick with this is that it's a .63 A/R turbine housing with a custom size wheel put in it (larger). Without a wastegate, this engine would have a big restriction at the turbine and wouldnt allow the exhaust to escape, building pressure in the exhaust manifold, clogging the engines breathing. With it setup like this, not only does it have the wastegate, but it's path is dead straight to atmosphere, very little restriction. The valve itself is 3" in diameter, once used as a shutoff valve from an F/A-18 Hornet engine bleed. I'll only have to modulate the valve enough to get the boost I need. Hopefully with this setup, the intake manifold pressure will be greater than the exhaust manifold pressure. O.K I'll talk to you some more about this later. Turbine

Roy, I know you like this mod, but air is not lazy, It's a powerfull mother of a thing wich if controlled properly can be used to develope big horsepower. The air at speed becomes like a solid and will not turn corners in a hurry at high speed.

That's what I decided to run on my RB20 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1 Turbine

ONLY 270rwkw. would any of those "reasons" have to do with manifolding?? Turbine

How does this compare to those turbo models you guys are talking about? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1 :crazy: Turbine

Sounds good to me. Do you remember the peak torque RPM for that engine at all??

Hello guys, At the moment I'm trying to decide on a torque converter for my race car. So I thought I would ask all of you guys with RB20DET's to let us in on your peak torque figues of your engines. I've seen many dyno graphs for these engines up to 240rwkw or so, but it's difficult to know what RPM they are at. Because of different model cars and different gear ratios and so on. I'm thinking of a stall speed of around 4700RPM for the RB20. I would love the peak torque to be at 5250RPM. So how does this compare to most of us with the RB20?? Thanks Turbine

Hi matt, I'll take the RB20DET off you for 300. I'm in Melbourne so can pickup

This is true. I'm yet to find someone willing to spend the time to tune my cars. Might be better to tune myself if someone will let me have thier dyno for a week.

Ah, the Autronic! Price is about half that of a motec I believe. The traction control works off wheel speed sensors. If it sees rear wheel speed faster that front wheels, what it does is turn off injectors for an instant. The launch control I'll have to look into. But it has an anti-lag option (turbo lag that is), which is a bit dangerous in a street car. I have 2 cars setup with an SMC version of Autronic. 1 is a 412ci AMC V8, uses a GM 4-71 supercharger. The other is my Nissan engined Doge Ute racer (RB20DE+T). The same ECU runs these cars, you just plug it in with a new setup through the software. So the cost for the 2 cars would be around 4-5K...... act like a shopaholic and shop around on the parts. Thats just to run the system. I think the AUtronic is great for a race car, it sequentially drives injectors, can be trimmed on each cylinder and has auxillery outputs for extra devices and it's resolution is very fine, something like 512 programmable sites for fuel and ignition alone. I wouldn't have traction control on a drag car, just run bigger rear tyres. Whatever you decide to get, it will be fine just depends on how serious you are about horsepower per dollar.

Thats fine guys, it's just my silly way of trying to learn about these group of nissan engines. The real trick was to see if I could duplicate what the chevy V8 guys do with their odd size small blocks. Using a long conrod with the short stroke. It's like having a mechanical advantage, a second class lever if you like. I would also keep the piston at top and bottom dead centre longer. Just one question for SydneyKid, what is the length of the longest RB engies conrod? I'll work it out one way or another i suppose. Just got to keep digging Cheers

Hello, do you still have the cams for sale.??? Turbine

Hi guys, I'm in search of a set of 6 injectors @ 760cc/min to suit an RB20 Thanks

Whooo their sydney kid, it's just what these guys running 8's over the 1/4 tell me they are doing. Sounded a bit hard to believe, but I thought their may have been some truth in it :confused: As for the weight brake. Smaller the engine smaller the weight. I think it's about 8kilo/cubic inch minimum, so 968 Kilo in total for the car, and driver. Thats great that you did that capacity reference for me, but I don't see one their that says RB30=3.0Litres RB30 with max (safe) bore = 3.1 Litres RB30 with max (safe) bore with RB20 crank = ___ Litres ?????? is that possible Sydney Kid?

Ok the high RPM option was to gain reasonable HP with the smaller capacity engine to run in a weight brake class of racing. Smaller capacity = less total weight to carry. So after reading your reply Syndey Kid, the idea is slowly running away, but. If we can get the RB20 crank in our RB30 block with our RB25de cylinder head, that would give us the low capacity with the ability to breath at high rpm! From what I've read so far it seems as though this can be done with rod and piston mods. If I run a higher diff ratio (numerically high that is), you need more RPM to get you MPH. The only thing that is preventing me to go with it is cost. Those special cams are unbelievablly expensive, I can't believe people pay so much for them?? Just a side note: I hear of one particular engine runnig at 10,000rpm, I've even heard that some of these guys running RB30's in VL taxis running up to 13,000RPM so the engines must be cappable of doing it. Turbine

Thanks for the respone pro engines. I'm glad that these cranks will fit the blocks. I could just stick with our RB30DET, but I'm after the high RPM option, at least untill I get enough feedback that it's a silly option, too costly and stuf like this. Turbine.

This may be true, but it would have an advantage of having a longer conrod,short stroke and larger pistons compared to the standard RB20 setup. Does this sound right?? Turbine