Turbine

Looking for a used set of RB26DETT solid valve lifters. I'm in Melbourne so would rather pickup locally, but would buy from interstate for the right price. Cheers, Turbine

Do you have the standard solid lifters for the gtr?? Turbine.

Do you have a set of RB26 Camshaft solid lifters??? Turbine

Real nice Stagea their buddy. Could I ask what year/Model that one is? Cheers, Turbine

You could try this setup for an external wastegate. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00/ppuser/19114 If you are in Melbourne, I can put you on to the guys that welded this up for me. Cheers, Turbine

If you have to stick to an Autronic ECU. Stick your head in the manual and study the hell out of it, learn to tune it yourself. If you are going to go to the trouble of buying and setting up one of these ECU's, make the most out of it by knowing how it works to get the best benifit. Most tuners that i've researched don't or are unwilling to cram every ounce of horsepower out of your engine for safetys sake. Especially if it's a street car. I intend to tune my engine myself, just rent out the dyno and crank it up using all of the Autronic options. I'm not too concerned about cracking an engine to learn what they will handle. If you can get 420rwkw with Pfc, thats heaps for the steet if you ask me. For a dedicated race care (drag race), i think the Autronic is ideal. Cheers Turbine

That looks pretty bad!@#& Overtorqued rod bolt/s, undertorqued rod bolt/s??????? crunch. If you ever find out what caused that to happen, post it on the reopt that engine fail thread.

I doubt that the engine has blown up because of the horsepower output, maybe it was to do with the amount of heat around the intakes. I have read that in Japan the rb20 has acheived over 600ps. 400rwhp is great, just what I'm after to run into the mid 10's

Could well have been, from memory it was back in the early 90's, a red GTSR. Funny how I still remember that manifold, I think we wanted to fit one similar to the Starion we have. Turbine

Yeh it would fit just fine. Remember our car has no inner gaurds. I could afford to have the header pipes longer than that still. Turbine

Thanks for the feedback on this guys, no doubt I'll be able to source out a manifold from all your replies. I've only ever seen the GTSR exhaust manifold once in my life at a car show in Melbourne and I had my eyes glued to it for about 30 minutes checking it out. Real nice. Still, I'm looking for the the one that follows the exhaust port angle with no bends for at least 2" out of the head. I'll gather up some pics of the setup once I get one bought or made up. Talk later guys Turbine.

Got any more pictures of the cast manifold at different angles??? Turbine

G'day peoples, I'm interested in anybody whos made up their own manifolds. High mount/ low mount, whatever it may be. Just looking for an aftermarket manifold and really not satisfied with their shape. The only shape I liked was this HKS stainless tubular zorst that I saw on ebay for about 1600 bucks . Even that looked like it could be improved, maybe you have a bit of a room issue under the bonnet of a Skyline. Mainly interested in a manifold suited to a high powered RB20DET, so if you are willing to share some info on the ideal manifold, made one yourself. I'll pass on my thoughts as well. Cheers Turbine.

RB20DE turbocharged is what i have in my drag car at the moment. On a street car it should be great, higher compression, more low down response. With moderate boost and a good cooler, should be fine.

Do you have any specs on the tune itself that messed it up?

Sounds like a competitor with this cars setup. I am doing the same thing with a drag racer. RB20DE+T, around 900 Kg, 5000RPM staller with an all out trans braked auto, mini spooled 9" with gears in the 4.11:1 to 4.8:1 range, 30"X13.5"X15" rubber. Thats the car in my avatar. You can check it out at our site. http://www.turboclub.com/Australia/Members/AU0000005/ The pics are 6 months old now so I should update. I'm using an Autronic SMC management system to run the engine and other gadgets. Here is some pics of the turbocharger, I hope they still come up. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00/ppuser/19114 Good luck with your car, let us in on the progress. Cheers Turbine

Do you still have the RB20DET thats in 4 parts?? Interested Today. Cheers Turbine

Not a silly question about a high revving RB20. Our goal is to cram 10,000 RPM out of these engines for drag racing purposes. The ten second barrier and beyond. I really dont think it's that too hard a deal considering the strength of the bottom end internals. Cylinder head max flow numbers may restrict you though. (not sure about this yet) Their is a few threads on this, you may want to do a search. Good luck.

Hey looking forward to hearing about this ride. Turbine

I would imagine that these 'Quench Areas' in the combustion chamber area, for a high speed, high compresion (say over 10:1) turbocharged engine, are their to allow the airflow to break the speed of sound across the engine without causing shockwaves, hitting a brick wall if you like. While airspeed is below the speed of sound, it will still travel around smooth bends and turns quite well, but go supersonic and these smooth bends and turns cause the air to crash (shock waves form). I can explain in a little more detail but this will do for now. Have a look at an old flathead Ford V8 cylinder head, now compare the chambers with a race version head. The quench areas are sharp edged (not razor sharp of course). I am sure that is what they have done to improve the RPM of the engine. I have an RB20DE engine that I have turbocharged in my Drag Racer. It should be interesting to see how it behaves. Nice work on your engine though guys, hope it all goes together well. Cheers

The DE engine cylinder head have smaller combustion chambers. I have not yet measured them, but you can see the difference in the depth between the two. All of the other parts like valves,cams,springs and the like are different but you can interchanged them without too much trouble.

You could do this yourself. Check the manual it should tell you how to test them. I dont run the standard nissan coils in my 20 so I cant help much their.

You may be hitting the fuel cut circuit in the ecu, just wtch your boost gauge and see whats happening without crashing We had an R32RB20DET on dyno last week which kind of had the same problem. Ended up being ignition coils on 2 cylinders. They looked cooked around the sealed solid resin area. Check it out

What price you got on the RB20DET block+crank+girdle??

I'll try to get a hold of some 300zx springs and do a measurement on them, find if they are suitable. Dont understand how I could loose power with tight springs??