Turbine

Hi guys, I have taken on the job of removing our old RB20DET out of the GTS4 (oil pump failed, stuffed rod bearings . Fun Job. I have the engine out, but I left the front diff/sump still in the car. I need to get the sump out. Is it a drama to remove it. Do I have to remove the drivers side driveshaft?? Lots of people have done this job quite differently by taking the engine, sump/diff out together. I guess I'll learn Any advice will help. Thanks Turbine

So once you have knocked the origanal restrictor down. Where does it go?? Does it stay in the block?? Not sure I like that idea, maybe you can use an ease-out to pull it clear of the block??? As for a new size restrictor, just make up a bronze or copper bush with the right size orifice! Sounds too easy. I'll check this out this week and get back later. Turbine

Yes I'm interested in how other people have blocked off their oil flow restrictors to the cylinder head as well. What is the best way to do it? Turbine

200 Have you checked the pressure with analog gauges or 3 standard nissan in dash units? If you havent tried this, then get hold of a mechanical analog gauge, say 0 - 100 psig, see what happens. You may have an electrical fault, sending the wrong current through the gauge. Because you said that it's at 95 pretty much all the time, it's like an alternator with it's current load when charging, kind of constant.??? Just a thought. Glenn

Hi YTS, We have an R32GTS4 ourselves with the same power goal in mind. To date it has developed 176AWKW. Check out www.turboclub.com for info on the car. We still have the standard ECU with remapping initially done by Martin Donnan and recently by Dr.Drift in Melbourne. Cheers

Hi guys, Whats wrong with the factory RB20DET rod bolts? They look about as strong as a Big Block Chev V8 to me.

These are only good for Drag Racing when all the oil falls to the rear of the sump and you need to pick it up. I have the same setup on my AMC 401 V8. It has a Milodon swinging pickup. Check out their site for it. Turbine

I use a rule of thumb of 10 PSI per 1000RPM. This 92PSI @ Idle sounds extreme. Also when changing shim sizes, I have found on average for a pump this size (Pressure vs Volume) that as little as 0.010" can change the pressure 4PSI around the 100 mark. Your releif valve could be just jammed shut?

Car: 1990 HR32 GTS4 Engine: RB20DET Type of Failiure: Conrod bearings starved of oil (No. 6 and No. 3 the worst) Factors influencing the Failiure: OIL PUMP. It was found that when the engine was pulled from the car, an inspection of the retaining screws (the philips head countersunk screws) that are on the back side of the oil pump had worked their way loose. One was completely unscrewed and the only way it didn't come right out was because the carnkshaft girdle was in the way. (passenger side closest to the crank). We have read all the posts about the standard oil pressure gauge being inaccurate, always reading lower than actual, never over 4 bar, so we kind of beleived this to be true. NO. Because these screws were loose, oil pressure would hold until it pushed past the seal to the rotors, die off and build up again, and so on. State of Tune of the engine: 12000Km engine previously developed 176 AWKW on 15 pound boost with RX7 550cc, a high flowed ATP internal gated turbo, massive dump and 3" exhaust system with HKS stainless low mount exhaust manifold. GTR intercooler and reworked intake, also a remote oil engine cooler.Since that time, new custom intake manifold,larger turbo, fully ported cylinder head and a remapped ECU. Oil used: Only the best. Suspension: JIC fully adjustable with 16X8 BAD Type M wheels. General comments: Car had developed a slight knock at around 3000RPM. Would sometimes go away completely then come back. Countless people tried to figure this out to no real avail, but at the end of the day it was big end rod bearings on the way out. We finally found out on the Dyno with DR Drift what the knocking was. A second backup oil pressur gauge would have been nice to see, but we missed that oportunity too late. Not a pretty job to fix : I'll be making dam sure that those screws are locked (Locktite) into position before I bolt the sump on our race RB20DET. Cheers, Glenn.

Thanks Legend, I was expecting you to say around 5000 to 6000 RPM. I've updated my gallery on the race car. You can check it out here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00/ppuser/19114 Cheers, Glenn

G'day Legend01 What RPM is your engine at through that dyno run at 150km/hour???

It kind of makes sense Mr GTS4 about moving the cam lobes further apart. But without trying it I wont know unless SK has any thoughts on it.

Yes Turbox, the cams are in the race car now. They are standard RB26DETT camshafts both set to zero on the adjustable drive gears. I fitted the standard RB20DE hydraulic lifters and the standard RB20DE camshaft brackets. At first I had the cams fitted with no lifters, to get a feel for how they rotated in the head. NO problems at all, smooth and free. So out they came, fitted the lifters back in and refit the cams. I did apply high temp anti-seize to all of the bolts that mount the cams in. I found that theri was moisture getting into the bolt shanks somehow :confused: It's interesting that SK mentions about cam timing on the RB's with these cams as a nominal +2IN, -4EX starting point. This would explain the idle problems when both are set to zero. Moving the cams like the above mentioned actually reduces the valve overlap by 6 degrees total. RB20's dont have alot of airflow below 2500RPM compared to the big RB26, so....... the horsepower gain could only be through the higher lift. I'm going to try them at zero first up because i dont care if it idles at 2000RPM, the converter stalls at 5000RPM anyway. I'll let people know how this works out in time. Turbine.

Roy do you run solid lifters in your RB20? Read my previous reply to this thread and see what you think with what I'm up to on mine. Cheers Turbine

carl h have you ever placed rb26dett cams into the rb20det with solid lifters?? I'm attempting this on mine. Something not quite sure on the fitment. I have a post up for this on the forum if you have som clues Turbine

Hi guys, I'm at the moment attempting to install a set of RB26DETT camshafts into my RB20DET. Everything is fine with the cams themselves fitting into the head, cam brackets fit nice and torque up well with no binding. The problem starts with the lifters. Now I know I can run with the hydraulic lifters. We tried this on our R32GTS4, the engine ran quite well above 2200RPM. It had idle issues but we kind of knew that would happen. We removed them and put the standard cams back in so we could drive the car to the last Skylines show in town. I thought with the hydraulic lifters in our race car it was a bit of a no no, mainly for the high RPM operation. So i got hold of a set of solid lifters (RB26DETT). For some reason, even if i installed them into the head above the valve springs, it looks like they will not make up the distance to the base circle of the cam lobes. Will this be fixed with the shims between the valve and lifter?? Seems like alot of room to make up their, maybe up to 1inch Maybe someone can shed some light on this subject for me. Cheers Turbine

Hi guys, I'm at the moment attempting to instal a set of RB26DETT camshafts into my RB20DET. Everything is fine with the cams themselves fitting into the head, cam brackets fit nice and torque up well with no binding. The problem starts with the lifters. Now I know I can run with the hydraulic lifters. We tried this on our R32GTS4, the engine ran quite well above 2200RPM. It had idle issues but we kind of knew that would happen. We removed them and put the standard cams back in so we could drive the car to the last Skylines show in town. I thought with the hydraulic lifters in our race car it was a bit of a no no, mainly for the high RPM operation. So i got hold of a set of solid lifters (RB26DETT). For some reason, even if i installed them into the head above the valve springs, it looks like they will not make up the distance to the base circle of the cam lobes. Will this be fixed with the shims between the valve and lifter?? Seems like alot of room to make up their, maybe up to 1inch Maybe someone can shed some light on this subject for me. Cheers Turbine

How good is that, thanks guys. Now it's head down bum up for alot of measurements.

Ok, at the moment I have no shims for my engine. I need 24 obviously. My question is to those guys who have setup the inlet and exhaust valve shims before. Do the clearances vary a great deal or are the all the same in dimensions. I doubt that they will all be the same on an engine with 70000+ K's on it. Thanks Turbine

I guess all these power gaining mods tend to loose all of the available low end torque our RB20's have hey. It might be nice to try the cylinder head off of your GTS4 TurboX, but I like the smaller chamber of the DE engine. Hey Boostn32, is your ride a street RB20 or race only? Turbine

I have an off topic question for Sydney Kid. Have a look at the airflow meter and box setup on Turbox's post. What effect would that have on ignition timing with the 550cc injectors, through the standard ecu? Remember I PMed you about a possible pinging issue with the engine. Could this mod tell the ecu that the actual metered airflow has dropped off considerably, but having the large injectors, the air/fuel ratios are able to be still correct with the ignition timing over advancing causing that pinging sound? Something like unpredictable airflow rates not relative to RPM/LOAD. Does that make any sense? Turbine B)

The standard bottom end is good enough as long as it's healthy. Read some of the RB20 posts. These engines take a nice beating with little problems if it's thrashed the right way. As far as your gearbox, it may need some work. Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys, got a set on the way. Cheers Turbine