sh@un

That's what you get for having 19s, Nick. The only affordable tyres available are the brands everyone loves to hate

Wow. 45 pages worth of posts about a simple mechanical boost controller I got one of these yesterday off a friend (who had one spare at his workshop), after the HKS EVC II piece of junk that came with my car finally decided it had had enough. If anyone wants to use one of these valves on a GT-R, find out which hose from the factory solenoid goes to the inlet manifold (should be easy to blow in with the engine running), connect this to the fitting inline with the adjustment screw. The other hose goes to the wastegate actuators, and will be hard to blow into (as it has no vacuum behind it), connect that to the last fitting.

*Edit- Disregard*

Skyline model = BNR32 Wheel Brand = O.E.M R33 GT-R Wheel diameter = 17 Wheel width = 9 Wheel offset = 30 Tyre size = 235/45 Modifications to fit = None (naturally) These wheels give really good clearance around the brake callipers, for anyone looking to go up in brake rotor size without having to use adaptors.

How hard are we talking here? Take the car some where with no traffic, and smooth, level roads and brake a hard as you can from 70 or 80km/h to zero and get back to us about weather the pedal pulses when abs kicks in. You may just have really good tyres that just keep on gripping (no bad thing).

LOL at dodgy receipt What ever gets that puppy on the road, though. Best of luck.

P.s Shaun- I want your log-in name :

My GT-R (an R32, mind) was tuned by MRC in Castle Hill, and runs an LTX12 plug'n'play. It has made 262rwkW at 17psi and has good mixtures, runs fine any time of the year, idles rock steady at 950rpm (after disconnecting the idle control valve) and can return well over 550km per tank of BP Ultimate, if you focus on trying for economy. Seems funny to me how people seem to be bringing up the AFM Vs MAP&TPS thing (like the R32 specific LTX12 sequential fire uses), when this is EXACTLY the thing that makes a D-Jetro set-up better than a normal AFM'd PowerFC (I've seen reports of MUCH better economy with D-Jetro) Anyway, carry on....

Head unit/AC module loose and rubbing on other panels?

Exakery.

Now I assume you do realise that the water-pump is driven off the same pulley that the factory viscous/thermatic fan is mounted to, yes? If this isn't being driven, you have no coolant flow. If it is being driven, is it slipping badly? That could cause the water in the block to have too low a pressure. Both these would cause high oil temps, too. 110deg C oil temps at idle are ridiculously high. Part-time electric thermo fans are garbage for hi-po engines like RB26's, the engine bay should have a constant supply of fan driven air to keep heat-soak down. Plus the mechanical fan pulls air through the intercooler. And finally- always use a radiator fan shrould. The radiator won't be as efficient without one. Hope this helps.

How generous. Can I help with the overflow?

Bwahaha...She's not holding anything. She just has her hand on top of a gold sash/belt thingy around her waist. Anyway, should be a good day. Fingas crossed for no rain

Yea, '89s are most likely to have had a very hard life, with lots of young owners'n all.

My car would have been 'R' graded if it was at a Japanese auction house, but it has no evidence whatsoever of previous chassis damage. It was just a cosmetic repair. I guess, like you say, you'd have to be there and have a good look over the cars yourself to know the true condition.

Yes, it is a simple wastgate actuator line-bleed valve. NEXT!

Cheers for the insight. I like getting an un-biased opinion from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. As far as the underbody spray goes, I have seen what you're talking about there- a fair few R32's I've looked under have had some suspiciously new looking black sh#t sprayed on *LOL*. Anyway, I stand corrected. I always thought the people that graded the cars for auction, though, were more exacting in their standards (ie. A car with very low kays for its age and good external appearance would not get a high grading if it had spent its life wading through road salt.) Wrong I guess. Thanks Beer Baron and WRXHoon.

Yeah, sure, I'll listen. I don't know it all (see my last post ) As far as basing the whole theory on ONE example?, well there are tonnes of other ones similar on the multiple other pages of auction results. That one was just on the first page, so I used that. Like I said, happy to have had it explained more thoroughly.

Hahaha...No roof to put up!

Yes, pulling the fuse that supplys power to the ATTESA pumps will make a BNR32 100% rear drive in all conditions. And no, it won't hurt anything- the only side effects will be lots of wheelspin/oversteer, less acceleration and dramatically shortened rear tyre life. Enjoy.

Hey, thanks for clearing that up. Quite an in depth reply. I suppose paying $28K for my '93 model, 2 years ago, wasn't bad value at all.

Really? http://auctions.amayama.com/nissan/skyline/1834951/ Check out this '91 GT-R then (grade 3.5!) As I type this; 5,328.00 USD = 7,175.00 AUD Even with everything that gets added to FOB price to get in on the road here, that'd still be cheap. I should have waited, perhaps.

Get back to whoretown, Mona! *LOL* The trackday at wakie is on 25th too!

Can I get mine with an RB26 installed? Plus some rear trim? *LOL*

Ahem, WRONG! I'm sure you meant well, but you forgot about- *Give way to traffic ALREADY on the roundabout (what the accident havers/causers forget) AND MOST IMPORTANTLY *No righthand turns from the left lane on 2 lane 'bouts (or left from right, either)