sh@un

SAU members only on Aussie roads I say. Lets start a petition.

Damn...Prices for 32 GT-Rs have really fallen through. Some of those auction result prices are unbelievably cheap. Wonder how much has to be added in the end to those FOB prices to get the cars on the road in Oz?

I use BP Ultimate in my GT-R. If you drive like an absolute granma and pretty much never send the boost gauge too far above the zero mark/ always change up at 3000rpm or so, then you can get 600-650km out of a tank if you do mostly constant driving (till the fuel light comes on). But that's pretty painful. I managed 400kms on 3/4 of a tank recently with a mix of light fanging/cruising/highway and city/town driving. Also, my car uses a plug'n'play Microtech LTX12 computer, which uses the Throttle Vs Map fuelling control, which is supposed to be more efficient than using the AFM's (A number of people have commented that they get better fuel economy when they set their Power FCs up with the D-Jetro option [which makes it work like the Microtech]) How bad can it get?- My car makes 260rwkW with stock turbs, and I once used 3/4 of a tank to travel 160km, which consisted of heaps and heaps of full-throttle thrashing. What price fun?

Could just be some low rev transmission 'flaring', which is just an un-avoidable occurance in heavy duty drivetrains, due to the larger clearances required (to allow for metal expansion when being worked hard). But then again, you may well have some bearing(s) on the way out in the g/box or diff, or maybe someone rebuilt the diff at some stage and set the teeth lash or bearing preload up wrong. If it's the former, it should be better in 1st than 2nd (and I'm assuming you don't drive down at 1600rpm above 2nd gear, yeah?)

Best second cars evar, R31s. I miss my old manual '86 GXE.

Drat :

Let's go to Petersham RSL for the buffet. (which, coincidentally, I'm a member of, and live close to) haha *gives desperate little laugh, fully expecting no one to pay attention*

Im so there. Save a spot for me!!!!11!!11!!!111. Will pay soon. Someone PM me if it starts to get too full. Cheers

You sure they are the 'dry' weights? I assumed that a BNR32 weighed 1480-90kg WITH fluids, as in- kerbweight.

Hmm...you don't have really have enough power to kill a GT-R diff that has been properly serviced. I'm assuming both diffs have had adequate oil of the right grade at all times. Is your tail-shaft straight and properly balanced? If not, that would place extra strain and vibration on the pinion bearing. Do you notice vibration through the floor pan when driving?. The other possibility is that the first diff had a slight flaw in the bearing that enabled it to wear out faster than usual or that someone had had it apart at some stage and rebuilt the diff with incorrect tolerances/bearing crush (is the diff centre still the OEM part?), with the second diff-was that ever rebuilt? If so, who rebuilt it?, did they know what they where doing? If the old crown wheel and pinion where re-used, they could have been worn in such a way that it was difficult to set the correct amount of lash between the gear teeth.

240SX eh?, so that'd mean you're in the Yew-Ess-Ay?. Mate, in all reality, such a massive amount of re-engineering is likely to be so hard as to not be worth attempting, not to mention massively, horrendously expensive to do properly. What sort of budget do you have for mods? You'd probably be better off selling the 240 and seeing Motorex about trying to get you the car that attesa came in, and use that- i.e An R32, R33 or R34 GT-R. Or you could move to Australia and just buy a GT-R. Cheers.

1993 BNR32 ECU Annandale 2038, NSW In excellent cond. Selling 'cause I have aftermarket management. Those who are GENUINELY interested can PM me (only) with a REASONABLE offer AFTER you check and see the price wreckers want for the same item. Cash only, ta. No photos sorry. As above, send me a PM if interested. Cheers.

Spotted at AutoStyle, Beverly Hills, last Saturday- White R34 GT-R with Mines graphics and built with genuine Mines parts, $160,000. This probably doesn't count for this thread, but the car was sex-u-al to the power of 10.

Cheers to all that took time to reply.

A friend has a carbon fibre lip spoiler that has a crack through one section and numerous small stressed sections. What, if anything, can be done to repair it? Cheers.

A friend of mine has a 32 GT-R front bar that is gunmetal grey and will need to be white. What sort of steps does he need to take to prep it for the re-spray.

Going for d day. Its been fun. Back at 0700 tomoz. Check ya'z

Ohh...So harsh. Why don't everyone just chill the uck out a bit. What's the whole issue here (before the second last post)- can't remember anyone NOT being allowed on a certain cruise. If you wanna come, you do. If you don't wanna come, then you obviously don't. Why all the cheap shots?

The question still stands- What's the meaning behind "Glafche"

My own 32 has always pumped out a fair bit of carbon, regardless of fuel (all 98, which it was tuned for) but I used to use Optimax and now use BP Ultimate because it seems to run a bit better on that. As for the octane rating the number isn't a 'percentage' but a homogenous rating regulated by the government using an average of the MON and RON numbers obtained on a Fuel Knock Test engine in a lab. Think about it, Avgas is like 112 RON or so. Its all v.complex. Would like to know if anyone has run a car on 98 and re-tuned it to suit the new 100 octane OptimaxExtreme and seen the difference in power/economy/smoothness though.

And yet suspension set up to work well at the 'Ring doesn't really cut it on normal roads either. What you want is a) smooth roads B) a loooooong hill climb c) awesome scenery and d) not much daytime traffic. What you need is Macquarie Pass, which scores on a,b,c and sometimes d. Good fun for a road car. My fave NSW togue run so far.

So- You don't have any 'ball-park' figures on what the price should be, but you won't take less than the figures you plucked out of the air. Hows that work? Sell you my 93 R32 for $50K firm, then

Still yet to see any aftermarket bodykit that I think makes any post '89 GT-R look better than factory. Weird. Yet, something like a 1.6L CRX pretty much looks better with any old kit and wheels. GT-Rs just always seem to go backwards when body modded (with the possible exception of the R324 kit from Bee-R, although it won't fool anyone, obviously). Kudos on joining the Red Emblem club though, 00UCH. Just my 2 cents. Ain't democracy wonderfull.

Summernats (still)= Australias biggest Bogan/Westie convention (unfortunately). Main gripes- After the first few hours, you spend the whole weekend treking through rubbish, It still isn't all that great a place to take an jap import if you want any appreciation (or to keep straight panels, in my case perhaps [re: those still angry about bathurst 91/92] and does it always have to be 40+ degrees the whole time? Let the for/against posts begin!

Rain shouldn't make a difference- it's unlikely to get wet there. The fork pivots on a iron nib thats screwed into the gear-case (this is inside the bellhousing). Being a post 91 model, my GT-R has a pull type clutch, so the set-up on the GTS-Ts will be different. It might be that pivot point that generates noise, or where the fork connects to the thrust bearing, or the thrust bearing itself (common source of noise [but not usually squeaks]). Check with a Mech, I would suggest. They won't charge you for a simple check like that.