stolen_s15

Thats what I was thinking. The sound you describe is almost certainly an exhaust leak somewhere near the turbo. Could be a craked manifold or dump pipe, could be loose turbo/dump/mani bolts, or could be a gasket on the edge of death. Check all those things and let us know how you go.

Two comments. You have far too much time on your hands. & That is so cool!

If it is a clogged filter its an easy fix. 1. Change fuel filter. 2. Throw some Wynns fuel system cleaner in your tank. 3. Disconnect spark, turn car over a few times to get fuel in the system. 5. Reconnect spark, and away you go. If you cant hear the pump though its probably stuffed, what sort of pump is it ho old? If its the standard one, you should get a fresh one anyway.

I'm in for a white set!

Sounds a bit too long for me, but I'll see how I feel closer to the day.

$1500 will almost certainly be a cheap, bad quality job I dont know anyone in the east, but try primal garage in the west.

What management are you running at the moment? If its stock, that will be your lag problem.

Dont waste your money with an ex gate or aftermarket manifold on the setup you are running, its just not worth it. Your turbo has been shown to produce exceptionally solid results in low mount internal gate, thats how HKS designed it. So basically check your other options first. Firstly as nismoid said get rid of your stock dump pipe, a nice bellmouth 3" should do the job well. Dont muck around with a split dump/front pipe, boost controll issues seem to occur (sometimes) with this design. The design listed below is good, shop around on price though. http://www.justjap.com/parts_ndumps.htm (X-Force Dump & Engine Pipe - RB20 / RB25, Price: $330, 3 inch Stainless Steel - Suit Skyline R32/R33 GTS-T) Secondly get some forn of boost control. Try the $22 turbotech manual one, cheap, proven, just do it. Finally if that still does not fix your problems check the health of your actuator, borrow one or buy one from a wrecker. This could also be causing your problems, not opening or closing properly could be causing the lag and the spike. Good luck

I'll be the first one to say it. I think your dyno might be a bit "generous", 213rwkw with stock management is a bit high imo. Also you say you did the high boost mod, that only atkes it to 7psi all the time correct? Unless you have a boost controller you cant go past that level, so is it really stock boost? Not trying to rain on your parade or anything, just a bit confused. Enjoy driving it either way!!

7 Years, nice work mate. Good luck in the future.

Who built the engine? Do you have reciepts? What boost are the quoted power/torque figured generated on? Would you be willing to seperate the long engine?

+1 Waste of time, on point at all.

Simple answer is ask the manufacturer, do what they say. I would say 18psi will be safe, but you probably wont make much more power than running on 16psi.

I migth pop down if I can make it in time.

As above, the MOTEC has more features and is (on paper) the superior ECU. But it depends what you will use the car for, if if you can justify the extra (purchase/install/tuning) costs of the M4. Which will be significantly more than the PFC. I would go PFC simply because unless your car is track orientated you wont know the differnce, and the extra cost is not worth the 'i run a motec' bragging rights. Nick

Check the basics first Clean air filter Replace fuel filter Check (and if necessary) replace spark plugs with correctly gapped new ones. Check health of coils, replace if needed. Clean AFM Check 02 sensor You got standard diff gear? If not that could be f'ing with your economy Clean Idle control valve (or whatever its called on rb26) Run some fuel injector cleaner through. Get injectors ultrasonically cleaned (should cost not more than $120) Your fuel leak will be effecting economy, to what extent depends on the size of the leak I did all of the above on my car and noticed a big improvement.

PM please

Argree 100% with disco. In term of cost, ease of fitment, and stealth factor internal wins hands down. And since you wont sacrifice any power or boost control I see no need for an ext gate in your case. Also from my reading the stock manifold does not hold you back unitl you start to push well over 300rwkw.

They would fit well, but I would throw 275's on them mate. More rubber = more grip.

I very much doubt its an exhaust leak mate, but obviously check the gaskets and what not. Exhaust leak will generally sound alot louder, and not "tuff", "deep" or "throaty" but more rattly. On a side note, how is the car to drive with such a large housing?

+1 Standard bar FTW

Before you go buying new coild, check out some of the DIY's on the subject. Sometimes tape around the coils, or even nail polish will work. Have a quick search in the DIY section, you should find something useful.

Yeah they are honest guys, which is a nice change in the car game. Also you can see that they know what they are doing by the quality of both their cars, check them out if whe you're in there next. Only thing is that ther workshop is a b!tch to find unless you have someone show you the way. One thing I would suggest is to get your suspension work done by centreline. The quality of cars in that place speaks volumes for their workmanship. Hope the car turns out ok!

I with the two boys above, you fitted a description (or stereotype) of somone the cops were looking for. Car theives would not risk showing their faces, they would just follow you and watch where you park.

I'm gonna go black. With the nissan logo painted either white or silver.