Brockas

Get the hot side of the turbo ceramic coated. Will solve your heat problem, and your aesthetics problem in the same blow. No guarantees as to the longevity of the turbo though....

Single...

The specs of the 2835s can be found below. Not sure if it helps. They were the 48T .62 versions rated to 380hp each: The main reason I went with the GCG T4 rear housing on the 3582 was because I believed the T3 flange was going to cause a serious restriction. So far no complaints, however I can't definitively say it's better unless I tried the T3 flange on my car.

Actually not sure!! In my head it was always a 750hp turbo (from back when I had one on my first car a few years ago). In regards to twins v single, as I said in my first post, I'm simply posting up personal experience with both setups I've used. I'm not trying to say all singles are better than all twins, but if anyone was tossing up between these two setups for their own car.... well... heres some real world results.

Dump pipes were CES ceramic coated ones. Disco, you're probably right, in a perfect world I'd love to compare it to 2530's etc, but after reading the 2835's were rated to 760hp (as mine were either the 46T or 42T versions, I forget) and the 35R at 750hp, it's still not a bad comparison. fatz, Haven't had a chance to do any skids yet, will this weekend when I go to the track. Yeh, she'll spin one up on wet grass.... Zebra, high boost is 1.8bar, but we suspect we've reached the point where we've maxed either the intake or exhaust, as more boost increases the midrange but not the top end. We'll look into this soon, and will see if it makes another 20+ hp. Adriano, so far I've found the transient response to be quite good. At any speed over 4k the 35R spools bloody quickly and you're rarely ever waiting for power. With the old setup, I had to keep it above 5500rpm for the same throttle response. Syslink, Sean at Allstar knows his shit, but if you're south of the river Ant Scali @ x-speed is also brilliant. Either of these two will be able to help you out. I am running a PowerFC non d-jet. Talk to Gav Beer, as he has a similar setup as yours. 2.8L with low mount 2860 -5's. Last time I spoke to him about his setup, he told me that if he were to do it all over again, he would go a single HKS T04Z instead of the twins. The advantage for the single for me is simplicity if something goes wrong at the track. It's easy to work with, plus a single has less surface area on the rear exhaust housing, so less heat as well. This is a complete list of whats in my motor: N1 24U Block TOMEI Forged 86.5mm Pistons Pauter Forged Rods TOMEI Gasket Kit 1.2mm 87.0mm bore ARP Rod bolts JUN Valve guides ARP Head Studs ARP Main Studs TOMEI Procams (270' x 10.8mm) TOMEI Valve Springs TOMEI Cam Sprokets TRUST sump extension JUN High Flow Oil Pump N1 Water Pump Cheers

Haven't asked Sean (my tuner), but from what I gather that 'ramp up' is just as he increases the throttle percentage, then once its at 100% throttle it builds boost. It definitely doesn't have a flatspot on the street at 3500. Here's the low-boost tune (1.5bar, ~22psi), and it has that same ramp up as Sean increases throttle, but in a different RPM range.

Just posting up my personal experience with both setups. Went from twin HKS 2835 (rated to 760hp, roughly the same size as GT-RS's) to a single GT3582R (rated to 750hp), with a GCG T4 rear housing. Not much else changed on the car (slightly bigger fuel system, more out of security than necessity). In terms of things that would affect the power, it was a simple bolt-off bolt-on job. There isn't any headwork, and the cams are 270' x 10.8mm Procams. The GT35 setup isn't anything special. Ebay manifold and some ceramic coating... Bold lines = GT35, thin lines = 2835's. Blue = power Green = torque (The GT35R line stops at 7500rpm, but we took it to 8100 with power staying above 500hp). The results speak for themselves.... We believe there is another 20++hp in it minimum if we push the tune and sort some restrictions in the intake / exhaust, but I wanted a direct comparison between this and the old twin setup before we change anything else.

Got my car off the dyno today, went from twin 2835's to a single GT35R. Car is 100% better to drive now, so so so much better. Specs: N1 Block TOMEI Forged 86.5mm Pistons Pauter Forged Rods TOMEI Procams (270 x 10.8mm) JUN High Flow Oil Pump Garrett GT35R (.82 T4 rear) Ebay manifold PWR 50mm Wastegate 2x 044 Bosch fuel pumps (external) Greddy Fuel Rail Sard fuel pressure regulator APEX'i Power FC (non d-jet) Nismo Fuel Pump (pickup) Denso 700cc Injectors Spitfire coils 557rwhp @ 1.8bar (415rwkw @ 26psi). Have revved it to 8800rpm, however its predominately a track car, so we've brought the limiter down to reduce the wear on the motor. Made ~500hp all the way to the 8800rpm limiter.

Jash, have you actually inquired about becoming a registered IM240 testing facility? I personally haven't, but a good friend of mine (who will remain nameless for the time being, but I'll refer to him as Bill) has. He had a rather long rant to me today about the corruption in this Kostecki agreement. Obviously I would love for him to reply to this thread, but he's not much of a forum person, so unfortunately I will just have to relay the main points he outlined.... Bill is willing to commit to as much money as required (I believe you stated $400,000, which is about half of what he has been told) to become a registered emissions testing workshop in WA. He has been told that he must obtain one of the same $750,000 machine that Orbital has (in fact, Orbital have 4), have access to a "simulator" (which he already has), and also become registered with the government as an official (much harder than it sounds). He wouldn't have a problem with this at all, but what he does have an issue with is that (to his knowledge) Kostecki's is not using the same machine as Orbital, nor are they listed on the official government register (I forget the acronym). Kostecki has been given concessions that are not available to anyone else. The government official who Bill is dealing with, is going out of his way to protect the Kostecki monopoly, to the point now where Bill is preparing to lodge a formal complaint. The issue Bill currently has is, if someone were to challenge the Kostecki ruling that their car failed the IM240 test, there is nowhere in WA that they can currently do this. This relies on Kostecki's being 100% honest (not implying they aren't, more so that it isn't regulated with any competition). Taken from the DPI Information Bulletin March 09 (http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/lic_IB_124A_Changes_to_Emission_Testing_Light_Vehicles.pdf): In other words, Kostecki's was not "doing everyone a favour by offering a service", the requirement of a service was created after Kostecki's became the SOLE provider of this service. As you quite aptly pointed out, the law requiring emission testing has not changed for 15+ years. Considering they have apparently passed a 900hp car, it has nothing to do with the public's perception of modified cars, as this isn't a test requiring a car to be standard. EVERYTHING is about money, sex, or power. Consider that Kostecki's apparently did close to 60 tests last month, with each averaging $1000, PLUS the increase in sales of their own products for "emissions purposes", that to me seems like a pretty decent motive for becoming the SOLE emissions tester in WA. If they spent that much, it would be prudent to also buy a 4WD dyno, so they can test a large number of 4x4 cars in WA which will also require emissions testing. It surprises me that they haven't.

I stand corrected! Good info. Personal experience has put me off HKS turbos, as my last pair were horrible. I guess some HKS turbos are better than others....

I'll take 3. PM me your bank details.

Cheers, he's sold it now, goes today, so you won't see it around anymore...

Jazza's 34 GT-t

absolutely. If putting naked pictures up on the internet doesn't make you get over her, watching several of your mates smash her gutted ewok at once definitely will.

You know one of the best ways to get over a girl is by putting naked pictures of her on the internet. Just saying....

What exactly did she say was wrong for the last 6 months? I suggest do a burnout. Burnouts fix everything.

Pics for those wondering: And the money shot, the $130,000 engine bay: It's hard to tell from the pics, but if you look closely you can see it's probably overpriced.

hahaha you guys crack me up. Got a hot GF? Can demonstrate.... jk

So you agree that this statement: is absolute rubbish? For a while there it seemed like you were trying to tell us that 15psi on an RB20 means higher shaft speed than 15psi on an RB25....

As is the concept of "boost"....

Depends how restrictive the head is? That was kinda my point. On the same motor, with the same head, with the same turbo and no change in restriction, then of course 17psi is going to require a faster shaft speed. If you were to port the head without touching the turbo, then you would see the same power with lower boost figures (it's about airflow, not "boost"). Boost is ONLY a measure of head restriction, not a measure of shaft speed. Comparing boost levels on different motors with different heads is pointless when trying to determine shaft speed.

Can you explain this for us Nismoid? Boost is just a measure of the resistance of the head, for the shaft to spin quicker on an RB20 there must be less resistance... I'm no RB20 expert, but what you're saying is the RB20 head flows better than the RB25 head?

You can add HKS 2835's to that list as well. Dirt Garage, if HKS turbos always outperform Garrett (a turbo manufacturing company) what do they know that Garrett don't? To think HKS source turbos from Garrett and then modify them to improve performance is naive at best. The only reason you should purchase a HKS turbo, is in a kit, so everything bolts on for your application. HKS turbos used to be unique when they had deals with Garrett for exclusivity of certain turbo types (ie. 2530 size). Now that Garrett offer almost every turbo in their range to the public, HKS turbos are nothing more than wank-factor for fan boys.

LOL this posted literally hours after my aftermarket lines / rail fitted. Nice work! From the sounds of it, T51R on board?

You don't want the same AFR's "in all RPM's". It's clear you don't understand what it is you're doing, so put the hand controller down and take it to a reputable tuner. There is no logical reason to be running less than 43psi base pressure. Road tuning with a wideband is acceptable, guessing is not.